A long varied crack that starts in a dirty, but easy big hands flake. A bit of OW, liebacking, fingers, hands, etc. Quite varied. The top is very cool. A voyage. I got bored with the whole Pink Floyd thing! So I switched to ABBA!

Mama Mia

Heinous 'Cuz They Anus

Learning to Fly

The Schoolmaster

Just a Brick...

Wish You Were Beer

Fearless

Breathe

Lovely Day

The Judge

Money

Circling Sky

The Great Gig in the Sky

Outside the Wall

Power Nap

Dirty Woman

Dirty Girl

Tight as a Tourniquet

Freebird

Unnamed 10-

Time

Dancing Queen

Goodbye Cruel World

The Trial

Jasmin

Falcon

Brain Damage

Eat Your Pudding

Wiggum's One aka Ralph's Route

Dogs of War

Big Papa Bear

Sorrow

Pigs On The Wing

Big Lady

Tide Pod Challenge

Wish You Were Here

Comfortably Numb

Which One's Pink?

Run Like Hell

Brain Damage is around the corner to the right of the main alcove of the Wall.  It takes an awkward changing-corners crack through some wide pods and up a final stretch of nice thin-hands liebacking.

Fun slightly overhung fist crack to wide fists.

Splitter, overhanging .75" crack. I put an anchor on this but could barely toprope the moves so I lured Didier up there and he sent it after about 6 tries over a few days. Didier disappeared into a Christian commune two years later. I sent it 7 years later!

The Schoolmaster is what we named the tower at the very northwest end of The Wall. The summit of this tower is roughly the size of an ironing board. The start is found between the tower and the wall. Getting up on either side of the tower requires a little fourth class on loose ground.

P1 5.9 hands, finger, and then a chimney. Decent gear, but don't fall. It ends on a large ledge with good anchors.

P2 goes up the obvious arete. Its best approached as a "French Free" climb with 5.10 moves between good bolts. A sling to stand in at a couple of the bolts will be useful, but a solid 5.10 Indian Creek climber should be fine without full-on aiders. Two boulder problems make this a very difficult endeavor to free. Also, keep in mind there are loose, giant blocks you have to contend with as it is the desert! The stand-up at the summit is a dizzying move. Despite the 5.10, A0 rating, this is not a giveaway.

Face moves over a bulge to small roof, then fingers to hands. Finish with a 5.9 chimney thats hard to protect.

If this route wasn't guarded by 100 feet of heinous choss, it would be a mega classic. While the dubious first pitch isn't nearly as dangerous as it was for  the first ascensionists, it still has some loose bits. Tread lightly.

P1-5.10 Climb fingers in a shallow right-facing corner up to a loose ledge, then up double cracks. Continue up and left (watch for loose bits) to the top of a small pillar. 110'

P2-5.12+ Money. Climb the beautiful offset splitter to  the top of some blocks (could probably be trundled, but they are HUGE). 90'

1" in a corner to blocky section with two bolts to hands. Just as a warning, the route is about 35m, so watch those ends if you lower off.

The climb begins with a good #3 placement and slowly but surely works its way up to #6.  It ends with a 2 bolt anchor, under a roof.  Couple good rest let you catch your breath before pushing on.  Being an off-width, the crux will be different for everyone.  As a larger guy, I found the crux to be the middle and Jerome thought it was the top 1/3.   It was given a 5.10+ but could be more like 5.11-.  Good rock and a great, physical off-width climb.  Don't forget to breathe!

Navigate offwidth pods and bulges to get to big hands that narrow to thin hands, then make the exciting crack switch to brain damage at the mini shelf on that route, then take the thin hands crack to the anchor. Overall, Fun movement and splitter/good rock.

Start on Run Like Hell and take the obvious splitter above the corner. As the crack tapers down move to the arete and face climb.

Money is a stellar left facing corner that starts as hands and slowly pinches down to tight fingers.  There is a good rest before the finger section which is probably the crux.  Could be a four star route if it cleans up some.

Short fist to offwidth crack right of Dancing Queen.  Bolt anchor on left wall at the flat ledge.

A bolt gets you into a stem/chimney. Hands head up to a pedestal. Then hands amd pods slowly close to fingers in a corner.

An excellent and forgiving finger crack located just beyond The Wall's beaten path. This crack and the other 3 (actually seams) around it catch your eye from literally miles away, but if you hike up here expecting another Wiggins, you might be left wanting. That said, it's another good 5.10 on a wall with a lot of good 5.10s, and if you've already hiked over to the right side of the Wall, it's worth going a little further. Sunshine and solitude guaranteed.

Crisp, splitter fingers. Should be a good size for most. It's sustained, but lots of good feet take some of the bite out of it. Have fun!

The crux for me was the overhung #6's near the roof at the top. Otherwise pretty fun wide stuff. Mostly #4's and #5 climbing. I walked by this for 4 yrs now and finally did it.

The roof traverse is #2's peeeerfect hands!!

The clean left-facing corner immediately right of Dirty Girl. Starts fists/cups in shallow slot into tight hands to fingers. Can stem to the splitter of Dirty Girl in the upper 1/2, or contrive it out and stick to the corner...either way is fun. Would be a great line if even just twice as long, as is it makes for a decent warm-up. The fact that you can hit up both of these shorties off the same anchor makes them more worthwhile.

Short, slabby, wavy splitter hands and fingers with some face features. You can use either the crack to the left (hands/fists) or the corner to the right--Dirty Woman-- (fingers) in the upper 1/2.

This is a pretty good route for the grade in the Creek, and another decent warm-up option for the Wall. I'd give it another star, but it's just so short...

Most of the loose bits were cleaned, but there are a couple blocks in the bottom of the left crack and some inevitable friable pieces.

This route is listed as unknown in Bloom's guide but that has been corrected in Karl's new book. The climbing is fun and engaging fingers and tips on good stone, with a couple of sections where it thins down.

Probably the easiest route on The Wall.  Has 2 precarious looking blocks, we load tested them both but be careful and pull at your own risk.

Awkward start to a short finger crack with some feet! Probably makes a nice warmup for those with smaller fingers.

Start up a ramp to varied climbing in a closed corner. Look for face holds. Then a long hands to 1" corner. This route is much better than it looks from the ground. Trust me.

Thin torquing on fingers to hands to OW. The OW is pretty cool with some stacking required, but the crux is the start. Kinda bouldery. I would give it another star if it was longer.

The clean, black left-facing corner just opposite the Schoolmaster.

Big right-facing corner left of Sorrow. 20 feet of easy scrambling leads to a sandy ledge where the plaque (maybe) resides. Start on a large loose flake and head into a fun corner. Crux felt like small bulge midway which is red Camalots. There is a helpful thin splitter on the left as you near the finish. Last 10 feet is a little sandy.

This climb ascends a left facing corner that is shaped like a crescent moon. A little like "Chest Full of Kind" with some interesting underclinging at the end. Can get pretty sandy after a good rain.

This fun route climbs flared splitter hands to a ledge where you have the option of continuing up the direct route which widens from 4" to a squeeze with a corner change (the FA took the direct route) or stepping left a couple feet and climbing a thin hands/hands splitter that starts ~7 feet above the ledge.  It's a big reach to the hands splitter but a fun variation.

The route is 150 yds. right of the main corner in the wall. It has a plaque (unless the smasher got to it) and starts just left of dancing queen?

This is a long hand to offwidth corner that's featured on the right and varnished on the left.  Features and variations keep it moderate.  Very clean. 60m rope gets you down.

Dogs of War is the wedge just to the left of Brain Damage. Climb the dirty and adventurous wedge as it steepens to the base of the final fist crack. I don't think this gets climbed much since we were all pretty dusty after. Get on it and it should clean up nice!

This route climbs a right-facing offwidth corner formed by a pillar leaning against the wall.  Climb a section of baggy #6 camalots to a pod using crack and nice face features.  Continue up 4-6" crack to a steeper section of easy stacking and the chains.

This is the obvious splitter half way between The Schoolmaster and Run Like Hell. Starts as wide hands and crushes down to tips. There is a tad bit of loose stuff at the base.

Cool. Cruiser hands to thin hands splitter followed by a fun crack switch to locks on a dark rock shield.

This flawless splitter starts as a tight finger crack, and ends as a #3 big bro after 110' of gradually widening.

If it wasn't in the middle of nowhere, it'd probably be a mega-classic. Despite its remote location, it is well worth the hike, and will not disappoint.

Climb the hand crack to the tide pod.  Pulling into and out of the pod is the challenge.  Good for the aspiring trad climber tagging along in the creek.

Face climby crux to varied fingers to hands and liebacking. Slightly less than vertical.

Crazy long, this route makes a good "warm-up" for the area. 160' of hands to wide hands in a left-facing corner. Rests aplenty keep the grade down. The crux is a short wide section halfway up. Double rope rappel.

The route offers a good diversion from your typical  Creek corner climb. With a variety of sizes and moves it climbs more like a pitch you'd find in one of the bigger granite arenas than a featureless sandstone thrutch-fest.                               Find the right facing corner with a wide crack at the base. A wide, featured flare warms you up for an enjoyable section of hands/thin hands. Continue up the corner to a somewhat technical stemming crux, power up a beautifully "podded" stretch of steep hands, make a corner change and finish by cranking a small wide hands roof.

Start up some loose blocks to the striking splitter.  Crank up the angling splitter 60 feet to the chains.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Wall