Thin Crack along a dihedral. After this climb was put up on gear, Alan Hirahara and Joe Rousek thought they were doing a first ascent so they inadvertently retro bolted this gear climb.

Old And In the Way

Pretty Strong

Mega Mega

Embrace This

Skin Tight

George Bush

[Redacted]

Ratso

Conquistadors Without Swords

Oceanside

Malibu

Roughing It

Storm Shadow

Beach Cruiser

Dream Big

Little Sumpin'

Hard Copy

Mega Mega is a new 40m, 11a route on the left side of Riverside Island. This is a very spectacular and fun route with a pumpy last section with giant holds.  20 bolts

Variation of Conquistadors without Swords 13b. Start on Malibu (start of conquistadors under water). climb first 3 bolts and cut right into conquistadors. At the 2nd bolt on the headwall after the no hands midway up, cut right onto the arete and clip 2 new bolts after which it does the same ending as conquistadors.

This old Gorge route may have fallen into obscurity, but it is a gem. Clip the high, first bolt on Hard Copy then make some hard moves out left to the arete. Some pumpy crimping and balancy clips will find you at a cool hand jam rest with your heels dangling over the Owens River. WOW. Next, a near no hands rest will have you contemplating the patina slap above that guards the anchors. crimp, jam, and believe your way to the final mantle to the anchor. Among the best 12a's in the ORG.

This impossible looking face sits to the right of her sister route, Me So Horny. Similar to Me So Horny but with a much harder crux coming at about the height of Me So Horny's anchors.  Long moves off of crimps lead up to the crux at the 4th bolt.  The crux is deceptive, powerful and insecure all at the same time.  At the 5th clip a high step gains the slab and a welcome rest. Easy climbing leads past the 6th bolt and a long, easy runout to the anchor.  Although Bachar called this .12b, most consider it one of the harder .12c's in the Gorge. Excellent route.

Short, but quality face with great edging. Right of Hard Copy.

A nice Bachar route up a perfect piece of vertical rock.  When there is no chalk on this route, it looks (and may feel) impossible.  However, a bunch of very positive small crimps lead up the wall.  The climbing is fingery and continuous up to the last bolt.

Gently overhanging climbing leads to a no hands rest at half way leading into the final power endurance headwall section.

Crimpy technical face. You can toprope this route if you climb Roughing It

Sporty Face. Some loose rock but fun climbing with the crux up high on good rock. Starts very close to the river but your rope stays dry when pulling thanks to the location of the anchors

"It crosses the predominant hand crack at the area"

This amazing route shares the first bolt with Mega Mega then moves out left and up.

Climb Oceanside past the Mussys to the Mussys on Malibu. Awesome long pitch!

Dream Big is new 3 pitch climb which starts under the large boulder on left side. First pitch 5.9 12 bolts, second pitch 5.10+ 8 bolts, third pitch 5.11- third pitch 12 bolts

This nice little face climb is located up on a ledge around the corner from Conquistadors.  Walk across a leaning tree to avoid getting wet.  Then 4th class up a blocky corner.  Hard Copy is quite continuous on small to medium sized edges.  None of the moves are extremely difficult but there aren't any real easy sections either.  Some semi-decent shakes keep you afloat.  Excellent rock.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Riverside Island