Easy problem. Two jugs to the top, with a heel hook to the right at about 6 feet up.

Myan Problem

Never Mind

Ground Swell

Quick Chill

Aqua Regia

Just right of the arete there are some cracks leading up the pillar.  The rock is more fractured than the nice slab routes to the left but seemed solid enough.  Just being at this crag is slightly R rated,  everything on the ground is slick, loose, and directly above your car!  But the climb itself protects well, assuming the whole pillar doesn't slip off the ledge.  The climb is steeper and harder than it looks, but the moves are interesting, and it climbs well.  From the top of the pillar, you can step across to the main wall.  Clip the last bolt on

Aqua Regia

and use its anchor to get down.

This is a pleasant but obscure route on the left side of this slabby cliff.  It can be very nice on a hot summer morning.

Hop up on a small ledge.  Place a #2 Friend.  Follow the bolts on small but decent edges until the 3rd bolt.  The line of least resistance at the crux can be found by moving left briefly.  Scamper up easier terrain above and clip the last bolt.  Find an anchor at a tree.

Descend left or rappel

using a tree or the anchors for

Quick Chill

.

Eds. This entry was originally submitted under Lion's Den with a different spelling.  4 days later it was submitted under Mindless Cliff.  The 2 entries are combined.

1st submission: this is a fun, fun, finger crack.  It is runout and a tad loose near the top.  From the last good stance before things get steep, you can cut left to another crack, that I found easier to place gear in, though still 5.9, and then traversing slightly right to join the main route for the last 8-10 feet of Boulder Canyon-type knobs, flakes, scoops.  The main crack has killer moves too, though on TR I was immensely enjoying the moves, to have had to stop and place gear....  You gotta flow through the section to climb it.  The age old question is gear or go.  It is an easy TR, there is a big tree, and there is a scary set of slings around mini-tree to be avoided at all costs.  There is an easy walk around left side.  When you park at the Lion's Den, maybe twenty yards west of the mine, take improbable 3rd/4th class ramps up and left, not fun.  You might be able to see the bolts on the face or the distinct crack from the pullout.  It is about 100 vertical feet above the road?  There is a fabulous 5.10b sport climb to the left, bring a couple small/ medium nuts maybe for the top if you don't like to run it out a little, though you can go left into 5.5 v-slot.  Straight up isn't too bad, 5.7 maybe.

2nd submission: this was the original line on the cliff. It follows an obvious, if somewhat irregular, crack up middle of the slab.  Climb up this crack with both face holds and jams. There is a lower and an upper crux. The difficulties ease quickly after the second crux. The lack of visitors leaves some of this feeling a bit scruffy with lichen. Find an anchor at a tree.

Eds. apparently a bolt anchor has been added.

Descend to the left or rappel.

Cool climbing on good pockets and small edges up a near vertical face.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Mindless Cliff