Start in the cave left hand on the cave wall and right hand on a good hold on the roof (or both on the cave wall - whatever floats your boat).  Move through the roof on good holds to the stand start of Sugar Daddy.

 The holds linking to the stand start are often wet, but with good conditions, this line is stellar. Bring a towel if you're working this problem.

Sugar Daddy Sit Start

Sugar Magnolia

Corn Syrup

E.S.M.

Diabeetus

Sugar Butt

Sugar Me Sideways

Sweet Dreams

Sugar Daddy

Low Fructose

Sugar Hill Gang

Cream Soda

Bluebell

The Paragon

Creme Brûlée

Tootsie Roll

Honey Hole

Sugar Baby

High Fructose

Zero Sugar

Muffin Top

Root Canal Direct

Root Canal

Sweet Corn State of Mind

Sugar Bear

sticky fingers

Sweet Crack

Sugar Rush

Sugar Mama

Chocolate Frosted Sugar Bombs

Trust Fund Baby

Starts in the middle of the cave on two crimps and goes straight up. The is the first two moves, remains hard and committing to the top 

A pretty fun easier route on the face of Root Canal and Root Canal Direct. Sit start the two good start holds. Go up to corner pinch block just above and to the left of the "ATF" carving in the rock. Bump to the good hold that sticks out of the rock and reach over to the wider crimp rail. Then follow the hard to see crimps up the face to a solid top out.

Pull the little overhang, reach a couple good holds then slab it out on V0 to the top. Pretty fun. 

Start on the bulbous turtle shell hold and move out direct to jugs. I moved left into the dope cave extension problem thing, but you can vary it by doing different finishes.

Start on Sweet Crack but instead of traversing left go straight up 

Start on 2 underclings on the ramp, left side if the cave (your left when facing the cave). R hand up to the crimp next to the pinch of Creme Brulle. L hand to a crimp then throw for the small ledge up Left. Finish on slopers and crimps. Top out is a little scary but not crazy. 

A 38 move traverse through almost all the problems in the cave. Feels like a short 12d. Start on a large crimp for both hands to the right and uphill of Sugar Rush, traverse though the bottom of sugar rush, campus into the jug of Sugar Mama, keep moving left through the crux of Creme Brûlée, keep moving left on decent holds until you have the rest on the massive jug of Honey Hole. Then make a rose move on some crips into the jugs on Sweet Dreams, top out on Sweet Dreams. You should be good and pumped on the top out so be careful. 

Same low jug start as Root Canal. Right hand up to a juggy crimp, left matches on another juggy crimp a little higher, right foot up then make a move out right to an absolute razor blade crimp. Left hand comes into an under cling at your face, then it’s jugs and good edges to the top. Top out is a little scary but holds are all there. 

start low get. get to two decent holds and dyno left. reset hands fire again for a dyno and top out.

Linkup of Creme Brûlée and Sugar Daddy. Start on Creme Brûlée and head right to end up on the leftmost good hold under the crimp-slot leading to the crux portion on Sugar Daddy. 

Great starting hold leads to climbing moves and then some more climbing moves higher up. Climbing shoes with rubber on them really helped me through the crux. When I got scared, I just thought about my friend, Jun, and then topped out. All rock below the seam is off (See photo)

Start in the cave on Sugar Daddy Sit start. Climb out of the cave and move left to two crimps (crux) I cut feet left hand on the second crimp. Finishes on Creme Brûlée. Lower standing platform left of cave is off.

start on same underclings as Sugar Butt, move right hand into pinch and left hand crimp then make a wildly heinous move to a small sharp crimp up and right. One more hard move to a bad sloper side pull with left hand, then finish on better slopers and crimps to the top 

Start left of Sugar Butt. Go up to a crimp and a good mono, or skip the mono for a big move up to a good hold. Traverse into the finish of Sugar Butt 

Start on the obvious jug just above head level on the right side of the cave (your right when facing the cave). Move left to a pinch, heel hook then go straight up 

A very cool route in the newly opened section that a lot of people have done, but was yet to be put up on MP. If you're the one who got the FA and want a different route name, feel free to change it.Go to the lip feature on the smooth face. Move into the small left side pull crimp and palm the lip with your other hand. Make a big move up to the jugged lip directly above and to the left of the lip. Just follow the jugs up from here to the top!

Start on a good crimp rail, go straight up on couple decent holds and match on the somewhat sharp “muffin top” hold, a rounded jug that kinda looks like a muffin top. Then enjoy 8 or 9 feet of nice V0 slab 

***As with Root Canal, avoid the large block with an "X" on it***Start on the same holds as Sugar Hill Gang.  Go out through the bulge and do the crux of Root Canal. This problem will achieve classic status once it gets more traffic and cleans up a bit more.

NOTE: It’s temping, but avoid grabbing the gigantic jug near the top after the crux. It’s lose. I put a big X on it. Start on the big low jug under the choosy roof. Cross right hand up to a good hold then traverse left for about six feet. Matching on the slopey crimp rail is hard as hell. Making the big move to the jug is even harder (Square shaped jug, not the big lose jug). Mantling the overhang is a little sketchy but then you’re on V0 slab to the top. 

Start on two decent edges with feet on the swoop, big move up to establish on a decent edge followed by jug to the right of the burgeoning crack. Horn. Throw a slammer hand in the crack and top the ditty. Highball. Name pays homage to the first human inhabitants of Woodpecker rockshelter - i.e. Sugarbottom boulder - the Great Oasis culture (900-1050AD) who were big fans of the south facing aspect, protection from the elements, and ready water. Their notable accomplishments include being Iowa's first prominent corn farmers. The rest is history. 

Start on same jug as Sugar Baby. Climb straight up into a black bear looking feature to the top 

low crux, so a good spotter should help and not problems

3ft right of Sugar Rush is a little jug crack. Start here and move left on jugs to finish on Sugar Rush 

Right of Sugar Bear. Start on a small ledge crimp or open hand holds inches above, make a big move to a positive rounded jug, finish straight up 

Link up of Sugar Baby and Sugar Daddy. 

Start on Sugar Baby, the obvious jug just above head level on the right side of the cave (your right if facing the cave). Make the first two moves of Sugar Baby then keep bumping left to the crimps on Sugar Daddy and finish straight up. 

The start and end of the route are highlighted in white and key holds in green. Start out with both hands on the first hold, then climb up the overhang(this is the hardest part of the problem), then traverse along the side of the wall before you reach the point where you can climb to the top

Same start and first 3 or 4 moves on Sugar Daddy then move right to finish on the jugs of Sugar Baby 

PLEASE READ THE FOLLOWING STATEMENT IN ITS ENTIRETYWARNING AND LIABILITY DISCLAIMER: Rock climbing is an inherently dangerous activity. All persons are strongly urged to seek competent instruction and develop appropriate skill before climbing on their own. The US Army Corps of Engineers does not certify climbers, instructors, or guides, or otherwise determine their qualifications. The US Army Corps of Engineers is not liable if a climber gets hurt or killed while climbing. If climbers choose to climb, they do so at their own risk!MANAGEMENTRock climbing is allowed on rock faces designated for such use by The US Army Corps of Engineers. Climbing or bouldering on undesignated rock piles is strictly prohibited due to its unstable nature. Developing new climbing areas in non-designated portions of the park will be permitted only after management approval through an identified process. Climbers interested in developing new areas may request permission in writing through the Iowa Climbers Coalition. Requests for new areas will be reviewed and sent to The US Army Corps of Engineers to determine the appropriateness of the request and impact on the resources present and future.SPECIFIC GUIDELINESThe placement of fixed protections, including bolts, chains, and others is not permitted. Rock alterations by chipping, chiseling, sculpting, drilling, defacing, or gluing/epoxying of  rock are not permitted. This includes the practice of dry tooling which involves using ice climbing tools on rock surfaces. Climbing and/or rappelling within a known habitat of any rare, threatened, or endangered plant or animal species as well in areas determined by The US Army Corps of Engineers to be ecologically significant is not permitted. Removing vegetation of any type is prohibited until permission requests for a new area have been approved by both the Iowa Climbers Coalition and The US Army Corps of Engineers. Removing excess vegetation in areas where climbing is permitted is not allowed. Cleaning of individual holds in approved climbing areas is permitted. The use of natural vegetation for anchor systems is prohibited. If a tree must be used for climbing purposes, padding must be used to prevent the rope, sling, or chain from damaging the tree. An appropriate amount of climbing specific manufactured bouldering pads must be used by all bouldering participants. All gear must be taken out of the park when the participant leaves. Gear is not allowed to be cached overnight in the park. All climbers and participants must adhere to existing park rules and regulations made by The US Army Corps of Engineers and Coralville Lake staff. Walk only on main trails established by Coralville Lake to avoid disturbing plant life and to prevent erosion. Do not use “social trails” that have been created by previous visitors.No climbing after dark is permitted. In other words, if you require the use of artificial light in order to see, stop climbing.Fires are not allowed in this area.Location pinning and any marketing (pictures, videos, descriptions, etc.) of areas within Coralville Lake on social media and other mediums are strictly prohibited by Coralville Lake Staff. CLIMBING PROTECTION:The US Army Corps of Engineers strongly enforces safe climbing practices. This means that an appropriate amount of crash pads are used and climbing partners are actively spotting. Chalk may be used on participants’ hands to avoid unexpected slipping. POLICY CHANGES: Normal policy review will be done regularly by the Climbing Advisory Committee and The US Army Corps of Engineers. Any alterations in policy or in rock climbing management plans will be posted at the climbing information sites or provided in written materials to climbers as far in advance as possible.Etiquette:Be a positive role model for other climbers.Be a good representative for the climbing community.Do not give bouldering problems an inappropriate name after establishing First Ascent.Carry out all trash waste you carry in. Cigarettes are litter too.Pick up trash and litter, regardless of if it is yours.Respect all closures.Limit group size and do not cause reason for attention.Leave music off.No loud cussing or inappropriate comments.NOTICE: All rules and regulations will be enforced by Coralville Lake Staff and the Iowa Climbers Coalition. Please contact iowaclimbers@gmail.com to report any unauthorized activity.

Description

Routes in Coralville Lake Bouldering