Be ready to fire off your entire round to send this short left-leaning, bolted seam. Although the rock is chossy, the movement and aesthetics of the line make this a worthwhile venture if you're in the area.

5.11 climbing on some suspect rock will take you to the sobering crux right above the third bolt. Navigate your way around the thin bouldery crux and then continue fighting up the crack using a combination of insecure laybacking and face moves.

Should this thing go to the top of the cliff. Hmm... maybe we should find out.

Shotgun

The Mechanical Bull

Churning In the Butter

Nut Nut, the Squirrel.

Jacob's Ladder

Fat Back

Second Amendment

Baby Rage

Just Forget It

This is an overlooked classic that has a bit of everything on it, including bomber pockets that seem way more like something from Funk Rock City at the RRG than anything at the NRG!  It shares the same steep, bouldery start as Mechanical Bull (13a), but after the "bull's head" rest, moves directly right.  Fairly easy underclings laybacks for a couple bolts lead into a left-moving pre-crux of sequential pockets, crimps, and the best jug on the route (which has NO feet, dammit!).  The pump builds until you reach a not-quite-good-enough hole at the base of the marble-white roof.  From here, either do a classic crux jump move, or figure out some trickery.  After this crux, there is a final slab that you can definitely blow it on, although it is nowhere as hard as the final slab on Mechanical Bull.

The Mechanical Bull will definitely draw you in if you ever walk past the route.  You can't help but wonder what it feels like to mount the large rock that resembles a bull head at the first bolt.

Start by heel hooking and breezing through some bomber jugs.  Tame the beast by crawling on to its back for a no hands rest.  Once fully rested climb through some small shallow pockets to a roof.  Shake out and then get ready for a very powerful crux.  Fire to a shallow two finger pocket, get your feet around the lip and make your way to a slopey jug.  One more hard move delivers you to repetitious slopey ledges.  Enjoy the immaculate stone and perfectly rounded slopers.

This is as good as any other 5.11 sport route at Endless. Start by hand traversing in from the left to reach the first bolt on great holds. Climb straight up, heading right to reach the roof. The crux is the final slab moves before the roof. Pull the roof, climb a short finger crack and then angle right to the shuts. Clipping the shuts is a bit awkward if you try to clip from a stance below them.

Begin 20' left of the route Solitaire at a weakness to gain the slab. Make easier fun moves with good pro aiming up and slightly right for the bulge. Right before you get to the bulge you'll get a good 2" piece that'll be slightly below your feet while pulling the bulge (crux). If you can find it, there is a grey/purple offset mastercam placement in the bulge that is decent and would keep the fall less tumbly. Pull bulge (awkward) and gain a good stance. Climb up and left for good pro and continue on easier terrain till you find yourself in a short, shallow left facing dihedral. Make harder moves to a roof. Get whatever small pro you can (funky) up under the roof and proceed to high crux. From here grab arced sloping pinch and do a dyno/deadpoint for a jug up and left. It helps to be taller for this upper crux. Punch it to the top of the cliff on good holds and fun moves.

This is a good climb-out if you are in the area.  Easy scramble with a couple handjams.  Do not try to downclimb this!

This is the obvious extension of the bolted crack, Shotgun (12b), and it has no moves anywhere near as hard as those on the lower crack. After climbing Shotgun, get it all back at a sit-down rest beneath the roof. Place a red or gold camalot in the back of the roof before doing a cool, reachy maneuver over the lip. After getting established over the roof on the upper headwall, you have quite a few gear options and some great jugs for recovering. You'll need full recovery for the final boulder problem, which takes crimps, sidepulls, and slopers up over a little bulge. After this crux, place more bomber gear for the final 5.8 moves through some chossy flakes.

This short route starts of a pile of cheater blocks precariously perched on a pile of crumbing rock.  The bird's nest on the starting jug is probably not on.  Less than a dozen moves and you are through the crux.  A handful more and you're into the hueco grande to clip the shuts.

Short, stout, and sweet.  This bouldery route packs a lot of great movement into 40 feet.  What from the ground seems like an impossible dyno crux at the second bolt can be unlocked with a little finesse and creativity.  The line follows up and left to the arete, passing one more crux move heading to the anchors.  Definitely worth doing if you're in the area.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in P) Jacob's Ladder Area