To the right of Atras is an exceptional face climb on some of the best sandstone at RR. Cassandra's comment on Atras led me to be curious about this one. The movement is fun and the climbing thought provoking.

Back in Time

Black Magic Panties

Hop Route

Sensuous Mortician

One More For Jules!

Atras

Fold Out

Atras is located on the right-facing dihedral on the left side of the Necromancer Wall descent gully. This gully is on the left (east) side of the Wall. Approach as for Necromancer Wall then walk left until you are at the base of the descent gully. Scramble up ledges about 100 feet until you reach the base of the climb. 

  Pitch 1: Climb the dihedral through many off-width sections. At the top of the corner, go through the vegetation and loose blocks and belay under the roof that caps the left chimney. 

  Pitch 2: Stem the chimney, undercling the splitter crack on the left side of the ceiling and pull the well-protected crux move that surpasses the roof on the left side and then fire up the chimney to the top. This chimney is a tight squeeze.  

  Descent: From the top of the feature, scramble down to the climbers right (west) toward Necromancer Wall. Descend the gully that is between Atras and Necromancer Wall. There are a few slings in the gully for rappelling, but I've always downclimbed it. 

  Notes: This route is definitely a stiff 5.8 but a very fun climb featuring a wide variation of techniques. There is an easier escape chimney on the right side above pitch 1, probably 5.7.  

  Also, at the top of pitch 1 I actually set up a belay in the crack below the escape chimney and then did a short, poorly protected traverse left to the crux chimney at the start of pitch 2. This may be a good idea as the crux chimney had a lot of loose flakes that I was raining down on the standard belay position.

BMP climbs the face between the Hop Route and Sensuous Mortician. Begin by bouldering up the face and placing pro. This is followed by a long stretch without reliable pro and potential for decking, however the climbing is easy. Beyond this pro is good but spaced, and one must wander a bit to find it and also the path of least resistance. 

  Before reaching the roof, clip two bolts as you make your way up a slick face, then pull the roof on jugs just right of the obvious crack. Build an anchor above or traverse left to the Hop Route.

This is route "A" in the picture. 

  The Hop Route is found on the left side of the wall and starts one of two ways: 1) In the prominent right-facing corner system (5.7+) or 2) in a nice looking hand crack (5.7) fifteen feet to the right of the corner that sort of arches up and left to join the corner. Either way, climb up to the top of the corner where there are some chockstones. You can rap from here off slings (most do), or continue up another couple pitches via cracks. If you do this, descent is supposed to be walk off towards the road.

This is route "C" in the photo. 

  Swain book says this is "one of the best moderate routes at Red Rocks". I would change that to "best moderate single-pitch routes", but it's still a very nice route. Very nice climbing. Starts in a fracture about 25 feet left of Fold Out. The fracture peters out about halfway up, follow it up and right onto a black streak where face climbing (small nuts in seams and slots) leads to the roof above - sort of wander for the easiest path. Juggy moves through the roof to the anchor. Rap with two ropes.

Climb the wide crack on the face to the left of Atras.  (This is the crack the leads up to the "1" in the photo.)  Then go right, crossing Atras and climb the chimney to the right of the big overhang. Gear belays. 

  Descend as per Atras. 

  The route name refers to Jules George of Red Rock Resole in Las Vegas - FA was done about a week after she rode off on her Harley into the big sky.

This is route "D" in the photo. 

  This is the prominent crack system running straight up the right side of the Necromancer wall. Can't miss it. Most of this is sort of 5.5 jugs, but there's a fifteen foot section of 5.8 finger crack about 90 feet up that takes you to the anchor. Rap with two ropes.  Note: I'd guess this would be a pretty good lead for someone looking to break into the 5.8 range.

Necromancer Wall is a darkly varnished wall located on the south side of entrance to Icebox Canyon. There are a few nice routes found here including the spectacular Sensuous Mortician. Most routes are single long (120-140 feet) pitches that require two ropes to get off. Nice place to go for a little early morning shade and a few quick pitches.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Necromancer Wall