You must like razor-crimping to appreciate this edging test piece. Find an orange lichen streak 20 feet left of Fish Angling. Stick clip the first bolt and then angle up left along the incipient seam to an intimidating mantel. Once on the ledge, regain your composure before flowing up terrifically fun edges that leads to a brief crack section. Swing left and up to the anchor in a hanging left-facing dihedral.

Diamond in the Lichen

Movie Making

Sleep Master

Genuine Ostrich (3 Payments)

Lean Off

Daylight Hibernator

Zarathruster

Fish Angling

Gneiss Task

Bonnie Lass

Managing Tight Lips

Compelling Pinches

Eye Bleech

New Route Goofin'

Staged Access

Cryatal Power

Zapateria la Bailarina

Head 100 yards left from Fish Angling to find this sport route on a tan buttress. Pull over a small overlap and then swim up jugs to the sixth bolt. Make a sneaky transition hard right and then up to the last bolt. Cut right again into a hidden hand crack/corner (optional #2 Camalot) and climb to a ledge with a bolted anchor. The rock is a bit crumbly and the sequences can be hard to read. With that said, I thought it was still a fun warm up for the area.

An easy line leads to the final zone of moves that are so obvious.  Crack & face

Face up a steep slab with some crack moves.

Begin about 40 feet right of Fish Angling and 10 left of Eye Bleech. Swing up jugs to a prominent fin jutting out of the wall at the third bolt. Sink the locker kneebar, fire the crux, and enjoy mellow, 5.10 climbing to the anchor.

Lean Off follows a steep wide shallow crack slot that right leans upward and cross a few block tops to the anchors.

Mostly face with a few intermittent cracks.

An steep arete line with the usual holds here and there.

Fish Angling slants up & to the right using face and crack.

A continual steep climb on the blocks of rock that goes past some bulges that are separated with intermittent cracks.

Bonnie Lass is a moderately steep face climb on the black colored north facing wall of Gneiss Canyon.

Managing Tight Lips is on the yellow-brown south facing wall and has only a shallow lip after the thin crack pinches out.

A face climb that angle to the right into a more desparate single pinch face move to a more difficult clip.

Start under a four-foot roof that begins about 12 feet off the ground. Power out the roof and continue up a sustained face, catching rests where you can as this thing never lets up until the chains are clipped.

Staged Access has some face traverse moves left to gain access to a set of chimneys and blocks leading to the grand stage above.

Some large brown crystals permit movement thru  a zone of steep rock.

The upper crack really draws the eye and I was so happy a series of holds lead directly up to it. This is the rightmost route on the panel currently. Begin about 10 feet right of Eye Bleech, under a series of small roofs. Work your way through the overlaps to then angle up right to the hanging crack system. Be pleasantly surprised to find a hand crack in what appears to be a fist or offwidth crack and jam the left-angling crack to a ledge with a bolted anchor.

Description

Protection

Routes in Gneiss Canyon