Start to the right of Postman.  Follow the crack up, to the 2 yucca plants.  Split the difference and go in between the 2 yuccas.  Here you can receive your free acupuncture, if you so desire.  You can either top out and build something there, or head right to the big oak tree and sling that.  Even with this, rope drag isn't too bad.

Threading the Needle

Monsieur Cheval

Postman

Ankle-biters

Gizecht (Face)

A Beer, Simon

Ant Spasms

Let's Catch Our Breath

I'm On My Way

Couture (Seam)

I'll Have a Kir

Madame Longrée

A Portrait of Me? Breathtaking!

Gently! Gently!

The very first route put up in all of Panic Town. Solid gear on hard, carbon-rich sandstone with fun moves, the crux coming at the odd, bulgy bits about halfway up.

Key starts for the lower section of Wall 5

Take the double-crack line on the left side of the lower section of Wall 5 (before you need to scramble up the boulders and to the landing at the tree). Dedicate yourself to the left crack that starts to thin as the right crack moves further right and into bush & yucca. If you're climbing at your grade, don't be stingy with your gear before the wavy bulge sections. Good edges and pedestals will be forthcoming.

Interesting and varied climbing on the route that leads straight to the rap station.

A view of the many features from the start of Monsier Cheval, with the rap station marked.

Start on mostly face with a few seam holds and head straight up on marginal gear, passing a few wavy overlaps. You can find decent slots if you look around. Look for the ragged hand crack at the halfway point to take you to the top. (This should get better with more traffic...)

The rap station on top of Wall 5 with the route "Monsieur Cheval" on climber's left.

In keeping with the theme of climbing during ant season...

Ankle-biters starts on the faint seam to the square hole and what looks like the beginnings of a decent crack, only to disappear after you clear the tree at about 30'. Move right to the crack that does actually get better as you get higher.

Neither they, nor I, are very happy.

'Gizecht' is the 15' wide face bracketed by 'Couture' on the right and 'A Beer, Simon!' on the left. Despite some fun face climbing, I remember thinking, "This blows as a lead."

The easy crux is at the start where it's a bit slabby, but it's low angle (all about feet).  No worries, though, once you get into the pod, it's smooth sailing.  Head up and out of the pod, follow the crack and anchor off the large oak tree, on the left.  This climb flows well and takes gear really well.

The tree at the base has been cut back, but if it's grown back, getting through the branches is the real crux.

As hard as we've tried, no where on this route is there a man named Simon to give you beer.

The first (cleaned) crack worth climbing on the far right side of Wall 5. At the top, walk off down and right.

Hmm, what would be a good name for this route...? (Moving quickly on the FA.)

Start the crack left of "Postman" and head straight up, trending slightly left toward the top. Either walk off the top to the right or move up and left along the top to the rap station.

Not terribly memorable, but a quick way to the top.

This route is the semi-obvious and recently cleaned roof/corner at the far left section of Wall 5. (Not to be confused with the even more obvious and not recently cleaned roof of "I Can See Something Moving" to the left.) A surprisingly fun and almost safe-feeling free solo.

The starting crack of "I'll Have a Kir." The oak branches have been cut back and you can actually see where you're supposed to go from the ground now.

Start on the easy, inviting crack that takes you to a large ledge popping out over the oak tree. Continue up a few more moves to a smaller ledge below the recess and the horn. Get up on the horn and then move up into the chimney-ish wide crack below the chockstone. Get over the chockstone and finish up on top. You can follow the loose trail along the top to the right and then over to the rap station, or bushwhack a bit to the left and downclimb loose stuff to get back to the base.

This route starts from the landing area after you scramble up the boulders. Follow the most obvious line (or wander around finding pro and cracks wherever or whenever you feel like it).

Your key anchor piece at the top of "Madame Longrée"

Start on the slabs and seams of "In Search of Eggs" or just left (wherever there's less dirt). Surmount the shelf then head up and left to the pillar/horn with the huecos along the base.

Climb up onto the lowest point of the pillar and head to the top, placing decent pieces in the horizontals until the last 10-15' of crispy face climbing.

Straight up the faces between Madame Longrée and Delicious Toast.  Some pro in the cracks.

Description

Protection

Routes in Wall 5