Fun climbing leads to the 3rd bolt, where the main line of this route goes right using BIG reaches to good holds.

As implied by the name, there are three possible ways to climb the top of this route:

5.10c variation: Move right at the third bolt and stay right as you make your way to the anchors.

5.11b/c variation: Go left at the third bolt to climb through the vertical seam. After clipping the fourth bolt, go back right to finish on the 10c main line.

5.11d variation: Stay to the left of the fourth bolt for the most challenging finish to this climb.

Win, Lose, or Draw

Jump Chump

Tijuana T

Rigid Digits

Copperhead

Another Face in the Crowd

First Lead

The Temple

Frosted Flake

Neophyte Flight

Unknown

In Between

Overlord

Coupe de Ville

Unknown Leon

Goodbye Mr. Purple

Falling Object

Bologna Pony, var.

Lithium Deficiency

Detox

Face in the Crowd

Petty Theft

Swimmin' in Ignorance

Toddler

Kowallis and Richards Hardware Bin

Trimmed Bush

Buster Bronco

Hex Breaker

Angry Bunnies

Mystery Route

Spiny Trouble

Short Crack

Minuteman

Aunt Fannie

Locker-box

The Layback

Holiday Nuts

Bologna Pony

Basic Training

Lunch Ledge

Desperate Indulgence

Bag of Stems

Big Fat Crack

No Name

Safe Sex Subaru

Hilti Dust

A fun dihedral with sparse pro leads to the first of two roof cruxes. The first roof is easier than the second but is mentally challenging since you’re pulling on a huge, loose block.

Be advised—this may hold; it may not.

The second roof goes on big holds and requires creative footwork and long reaches.

Easy, fun climbing over large blocks until 3rd bolt. At the 3rd bolt, the route earns the "jump" part of it's name. Short climbers BEWARE! Steep 8' section with thin holds, leads to a pretty good rail and then chains.

Fun crack climb that gets exciting at the top.  Taking the trail on the left side of the cliffs will put you up top were you can set this route up TR.

Challenging dihedral left of Jump Chump that requires some overlap with that route. Subsequent to the 2016 Epeldi guide, this route has been equipped with its own anchors.

Stemming, crimping, and liebacking on a positive but flared crack make for varied climbing that would be difficult to protect.

This is an excellent crack climb with great pro!

Start in a dihedral with a finger crack in the back.  enjoy great fingers and stemming, until the crack widens to perfect hands under a roof.  Pull the roof using finger locks and small edges for feet, and finish up an easier hand size crack to the anchors

Unlike most aretes at the Black Cliffs, this one has no holds! (Well, not many.)

Bring a full bag of tricks for this one.

Pinch, grab slopers, stem, drop knees, and smear your way up fun but difficult feature climbing.

Top third eases considerably with the appearance of actual holds.

The inobvious nature of this route would make it very proud onsight—I would love to see someone make the attempt!

Aptly named! Easy to climb, easy to place gear, easy to practice top belay, and I was able to follow and clean with my very meager skills.

Begins as a great hand crack with ample feet for easy placements. The crack peters out up top and leaves a thin, slabby face to the left and a steep face with chains above to the right.

Follow a discontinuous seam on classic Black Cliffs edges until mid height, where the route steepens and the jams and pro get wider (fingers to a couple of hand jams) before getting quite thin again.

Small stoppers and cams from .3 to .5.

A two-foot section will take a #1 or a #2.

Rap rings at top.

A fun crack with a tricky crux going over a bulge.  Get the beta right and it's not that hard, but if not it will feel harder than the grade indicates.

This is an interesting climb with a couple of possible variations.  If you stick to the left there is a fun roof to pull over (5.9).  Taking the right side is easier.  There is a lot of loose rock near the top.  Be careful when setting anchor or top rope that you don't knock rock down on your partner.  Lots of good places for pro.

Pretty easy to top rope this (there are rappel bolts located above the climb which can be easily accessed by a short hike up the gully to the left of this route).  Fun little climb.  Start is super easy and then sustained 5.10 territory.

Stem up a dihedral to a boulder problem above the 2nd bolt. Use some very small foot holds and lots of friction to set yourself up for a large move out right, clip the 3rd bolt and get creative pulling the roof. Get on it!

Fun route.  Good holds at the beginning.  Gets harder as you go.  Crux is near the top.  Thin cracks to climb over a shelf.  Big holds above the shelf.  Book rates this as 5.8 but feels more like 5.9 around the crux.  You can hike around to the top and set this up as top rope.

The route starts with fun moves up the wide finger crack and arete.  After clipping the second bolt, the crux moves go up and right from the end of the crack.  If you figure out the crux don't let up, as there are several delicate slab moves that must still be overcome to gain the anchors.  A very engaging climb!

The chimney to the right of the arete is off.

From Boise Climbs: The intended line does not include using The Temple crack.  However, an edge at the left end of The Temple arch is considered to be on route.

Crack to the right of Jump Chump. Easy climbing leads to a roof crack with sporty moves that can be well protected. After pulling the crux, finish at the Safe Sex Subaru anchors to the right.

Climb Bologna Pony, but stay to the right of the last bolts to climb the thin face on some very small crimps to the anchor.

Fun route with a committing feel up top, good gear, just save the small cams for last!

Easy crack and column climbing leads to a thoughtful crux at a slab face. Clip the lone bolt and choose your own adventure to get to the chains. Working too far left will decrease the difficulty while sticking to slab alone will make it harder.

1st-2nd bolt, 3rd-4th bolt, palm and smear, fingers

Thinning edges lead to a crux REACH involving a palming sloper/crimp.  Latch this rig, get your feet up, and crank!

Start by face climbing up towards a high first bolt. Place a few pieces of gear in a small crack before you reach the bolt. Clip two bolts, then pull onto a ledge under the roof. Lean back and clip your last bolt at the edge of the roof. Pull the roof on huge jugs but marginal feet to another ledge with the chains.

A lot of people lead this as a first climb. It's an easy climb that is well protected. The crux comes at the top with a bulge.

The anchors are on the top of the block at the top of the route, and not visible until the top. Runners are needed to extend the anchors if you wish to top rope it.

From Boise Climbs: Dihedral to the Goodbye Mr. Purple chains

Climb the crack that is five feet to the right of Bologna Pony.  The crack starts as fingers and goes to hands at the top. One of the better crack climbs at the Black Cliffs.

Cruiser crack/stem line that protects well (eats up mid-size nuts). Traverse to the right across a ramp atop the main pillar at the top of the climb to reach the anchors shared with the two lines to the right of this.

Tricky moves off the deck without gear leading to solid pro about 20 feet up. Clip the fixed nut and pull the roof with some smeary feet. There are rumors that a block came off making the throw above the roof more solid and the grade soft (it was originally rated 5.11c).

Unique route with some fun moves through the last two bolts.

The crux is near the middle of the climb, and the ascent is a bit precarious for the next several feet.

If a rope is already up on Spiny Trouble, this is a nifty hand (arm) crack, with plenty to work with. As a beginner, I enjoyed it! The top would be Spiny Trouble, if you use those anchors. supposedly the route has anchors clear up top, but those are likely ancient. I have no idea what the two parts combined should go at.

Edit to add (8/19/18): Someone has added shiny new hangers, with properly painted chains, to this route. There are also some anchors on top, near the path. They seemed solid, but who knows how ancient they are? They are also set very far apart.

Unsure if this has a name.  Near the top you can find a fun move if you stay to the left, probably 5.8 territory.  Staying in the crack on the right is probably easier though.

Climb up a dark dihedral until you reach a bulge.  Work up a solid crack and pull over the bulge on great, juggy holds.  This is a great climb! Don't miss it.

Face climbing for the first half to a fun bulging hand crack.

If anyone has info on prior assents let me know.

Layback, stem, and chimney the bottom section. Pull a small roof with big holds and finish on easy slab.

Epeldi guide lists this route as having no anchors, but this route currently has a two-bolt anchor.

This line is not in the 4th edition of Boise Climbs. It’s very likely this has been climbed before, but I have found no information, so I’m basing the description and rating off the one time I’ve been on it.

If anyone knows of a prior ascent, please let me know who it was and what, if anything, they named this, and I will correct the details here. And if you climb this, please input your assessment of the grade.

Standard Black Cliffs face climbing on positive edges, but the difficulty here lies in protecting the route with only small gear, hence the name.

Line merges at the top and shares anchors with The Layback.

This route is a must do.  Climb the overhanging basalt column to the chains at the top. The crux is at the top.

Start on easy climbing up the outside of the short pillar.  Once on top of the pillar climb the crack in the dihedral to the anchors.  The crack behind the pillar starts as tips and gradually widens to fingers and then small hands.  It's a pity the crack doesn't start from the ground . . .

Fun little climb.  Starts off working up a nice crack, fairly easy.  Gets harder as you go.

Climb the corner and finger crack to the large ledge at mid-route.  A series of positive but well spaced edges will take you the rest of the way to the anchors.

This is the chimney to the right of Unknown Leon. There is nowhere good to place protection until you go above and stand on a small boulder wedged in the bottom of the chimney, which is about 15 ft up. There are a couple horizontal cracks after that, and after that there is a 20 ft blank section. I climbed facing away from the cliffs, and about 5 ft below the anchor was a pocket behind me that was deep enough to stuff a C3 into.

The chimney walls are well featured and offer very secure stances. Bring a solid mental game.

Follow the big fat crack most of the way up. Once you finish that you'll have a large ledge to rest on before making your way up to chains to anchor on.

Harder to protect than to climb, Safe Sex Subaru follows a thin crack and plenty of face holds. Pull over a small roof on creative feet.

A fun 5.11 for the Black Cliffs. Short dihedral leads you onto a couple bouldery face moves.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Short Cliffs