Climb middle cracks to small roof high on the pitch. After surmounting the roof, step left to the shared anchor with Stone Telling. 25m. Lower off.

The Crocodile's Toothache

The Long Haired Boy

The Magnus

Magnus Junior

Cotton Headed Ninny Muggins

Stone Telling

Daknucklehead

Jam Sandwich

Omaha Stylee

Located ten feet right of the start of Magnus Pillar and immediately right of the chimney. After a bouldery start, climb cracks to small roof. Pass roof and continue straight up to anchors. 25m. Lower off.

Climb the right set of cracks to the right facing corner. 25m. Lower off.

This starts up and right from Junior in the large corner just left of the chimney. Climb the finger and hand crack in right facing corner. Continue up the finger crack to the top of the formation. Superb hand and finger jamming from start to finish. An area classic. 35m. Lower off.

Magnus Junior starts on the lower left part of Magnus Pillar, and shares the start with Cotton Headed Ninny Muggins. Make your way up cracks and up the ramp to the large right facing corner. Exit the corner and continue up the splitter to a large roof. Move left under roof, then continue up left facing corner to two bolt anchor. 50m. Lower off with two single rope rappels.

This route begins on the lower left part of Magnus Pillar and shares the start with Magnus Junior, but stays left where Magnus Junior moves right into the large corner. Pass the two bolt midway anchor and head up the thin crack that splits the face. At the roof, make the exciting moves left and pass three bolts that protect the airy arete. 50m. Lower off with two single rope rappels.

Note: There are top rope options left of this route from the top anchors. From the ground, it is possible to lower the leader from the top anchor to the midway anchors with a 70m rope. Watch your rope end.

A clean dihedral that leans and jogs left.

This is a challenging and varied pitch.

This route begins a few feet left of The Magnus. Move up the small left facing corner feature and make the committing moves to the bolt (10+). Make a few bushy moves up and left into the right facing corner. After exiting the corner, step right and follow the bolts up the arete. Sustained and technical climbing (11a) leads to the shared anchor with The Magnus.  35m. Lower off.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Magnus Pillar