P1: 5.9+ ***Move up and left past two bolts on ramp, then get physical. If you like ‘em wide, this pitch is for you. Continue up to a two bolt anchor. If you're just doing the first pitch, then lower off. 25 m If you're doing the second pitch too, clip the first set of anchors and move up to the second anchor at the base of the steep corner.

P2: 10 *** Climb the corner. Overhanging hands and fists. Very cool if your into that kind of thing. 20m. Lower off.

Short But Wide

Jarring One Loose

Aerobics

The Aerobic Up Chuck

Maggie's Farm

Big Bird

Johnny Appleseed

Hoosier Daddy

Carne y Papas

Knuckles

Big Bird Left

Leopard Skin Unitard

Magic Eight Ball

Renegades of Funk

Vegetative State

The Vertical Gardener

This is the splitter just right of the right facing corner. A bolt protected bulge leads to exceptional crack climbing.

Long, varied pitch. Same start as for Aerobic Up Chuck. Begin behind a large Juniper. Move past single bolt at start, then move up and right to four bolts protecting a blunt feature.  For a few body lengths, this route joins The Aerobic Up Chuck.  Go up Chuck. Gratefully exit the maw by moving up and left past two bolts. Fun and airy moves gain the twin cracks and glory hands on the upper headwall. This route can finish on shared anchors with Renegades of Funk (left-a little spicy) or The Aerobic Up Chuck (right-a little awkward). 45 m. Two single rope rappels.

Note: With a 70m rope, it is possible to climb this route and get lowered to the midway anchor. This offers the leader a much more comfortable belay. Watch your rope end when lowering!

This is one of the two original routes on the wall. Start up blocky terrain just right of The Aerobic Up Chuck. Move up and right past the bulge to the triangular roof. Exit triangular shaped roof on the left. Continue up cracks to the top third of The Aerobic Up Chuck and continue to the anchor.  Old School 5.9. 45m.

Originally done as two pitches, it is possible to do this in one long pitch. Lower off.

Variation: Begin on Leopard Skin Unitard for a more direct and sustained start. This start does not change the rating but does add a star.

This route is an odyssey up wide crack features. Climb past one bolt, then continue straight up cracks. Journey into and embrace the wideness above. If you're into old school wide and squeeze, add a star to this route.

45m. Two single rope rappels.

Note: With a 70m rope, it is possible to climb this route and get lowered to the midway anchor. This offers the leader a much more comfortable belay. Watch your rope end when lowering! Thinking it was a new route, it was first named “Chuck” in honor of trad master Chuck Pratt. It was later discovered that the route joins “Aerobics” at ⅔ height. It was subsequently renamed.

There are a couple of starts. ~7m up, clip a single bolt and then step left into the crack. Continue up left facing corner. Pass midway anchors and continue up cracks to fixed anchor. 50 m. Two single rope rappels.

A somewhat scrappy start leads to interesting climbing above. Climb up broken cracks to a roof. Move left under roof. Continue straight up cracks to anchor. 30m. Lower off.

This is the corner on the far right side of the crag. 20m. Lower off.

Pitch 1: 5.10b ***

Gear to #3 Camalot Climb the appealing left facing corner. This pitch slowly revs up as you make your way towards the overhanging notch. Incredible hand jams. Steep and physical. Stay true to the corner crack for a more sustained challenge. 25m.

Pitch 2: 10a**

Gear to #2 Camalot. From the bolted anchor, step right into the thin finger crack. Continue up through some blocky climbing and into the obvious right leaning crack on the upper headwall. 25m. Two single rope rappels.

Pitch 1 Variation: For an easier variation, leave the corner for a few body lengths and go up the widening crack feature. At the roof, step back right into the corner and up the overhanging notch.

Start in a right facing corner that heads up and left to a stance. Clip the first bolt above the roof, and move around roof to the left. Clip the second bolt, then immediately make the tenuous moves back right into shallow, flaring crack. Continue up cracks to anchor. 32m. Lower off.

The start may be wet early season.

Start as Big Bird. After the scrapy start, make the fun moves into the left crack that heads up to the four bolts. Pass thru the roof and continue straight up cracks to anchor. 30m. Lower off.

This bolted pitch starts approximately 25 feet right of The Aerobic Up Chuck. Start up groove. Continue over bulge to right side of triangular roof. The crux is a series of committing but well protected moves on the steep head wall. 30m. Lower off.

After the bouldery start up flakes, continue up discontinuous cracks to the two bolt anchor at the base of Renegades of Funk. 9 bolts. 30m. Lower off.

A demanding and steep finger crack leads to an fun lie back flake. Higher up, move right when the feeling is right. This climb is located on the upper headwall just right of Carne y Papas and just left of Jarring One Loose. 25m. Lower off.

There are several ways to approach this pitch.

1. The best and most direct approach is to climb Magic Eight Ball to the two bolt anchor at the base of Renegades of Funk.

2. You can climb the first half of The Aerobic Up Chuck or Jarring One Loose to the midway anchor.

3. Climb all of The Aerobic Up Chuck or Jarring One Loose and lowering back to the midway anchor if you have a 70m or 80m rope.

Start as for The Aerobic Up Chuck. After clipping bolt, move up and left into left facing corner. Continue up and left towards the finish of Carne Y Papas. Two single rope rappels.

There are a couple of starts. ~7m up, clip a single bolt and then step left into the crack. Take the middle line up a left facing flake feature. Continue up to the roof. Do the undercling thing left under the roof, then move up and right to the shared anchor with Carne y Papas. 25m. Lower off.

This shares the same start with Maggie's Farm. There are a couple of starts. ~7m up, clip a single bolt and then step left into the crack. Follow right side of flake. Move left up ramp to shared anchors with Maggie's Farm. 25m. Lower off.

Note: It is possible to link this pitch up with the top half of Maggie's Farm for 50m of crack climbing.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Juniper Wall