Angle of Repose

Windstorm Grove

The Naked Truth.

The Great North Ridge

Scorpion Slab

The Dark Side

Wandering Poet

Rosco's Delight

Super Crack of the Reef

The Raucous Wren.

The Laughing Lizard

Hot Buttered Popcorn with Salt

Sidewinder

Seaside Stroll

Innominate

Cry Wolf

Bonawaim

Rebus 5.10

Ranting Ravens.

Dancin' in the Dark.II 5.6

Think anagram.  The climb improves with height. The upper crux (5 bolts)section is on perfect rock. Start 30'down to the left of Dark Side up an obvious left facing corner crack.

P1)Climb the crack and continue straight up to the dark brown headwall that gives fine intricate moves to double anchors.150'5.10

These slab routes five in all are situated immediately left (south) of the entrance of Little Spotted Wolf Canyon. Windstorm is the obvious groove on the corner of the entrance.As the name implies on the FA  the climbers where caught in a violent desert windstorm.

P1)To enter the groove a steep wall is climbed passed three pro bolts. Continue up the groove at about 5.6R to double anchors. 150'5.9-

P2) Follow the groove to break out left to double anchors.170' 5.5(same anchors as the next route to the left Cry Wolf)

This climb is at the left side of the slab climbs left of an obvious black water streak. Scramble a slab to below a bush. Well protected.

P1) Move out left around a corner then up to crux moves passed two bolts 2/3 more pro bolts and cams to move up right to natural belay on large blocks.To Rap off follow ridge up to right for about 60' to rap and belay anchors of climb "The Dark Side"

This is the longest route on the Eastern Reef apart from the Traverse of the Great White Wall... It is an alpine type expedition ...

P1) Climb the open slab that has a dark brown hanging slab at its top. 200' 5.4

P2).Drop down to the left then follow the edge of the slab. 200' 5.4.

P3)Continue up the edge. 200' 5.5

P4)Move belay about 50'to the left to the foot of a chimney slot. Climb slab and crack then cross over righ to lower slab that's left of a wide crack. Climb over the step and belay near a large flake.200' 5.6.

P5).Straight up the edge of the slab to a small spike belay.200' 5.4. P6). Up the notch then to a ledge with boulders. 200' 5.4.

P7). Straight up.200' 5.0

P8).Continue. 200'5.0 P9).400' of 4th class to a fine summit.

Descend slabs to the south (4th class) to the notch then north down more slabs and gully. At one point about midway when the descent gets steep find a slot crack out to the left,which makes the descent easier.The descent takes about an hour or more.

P1) Up the gray slab to double anchors. 190' 5.3

P2) Continue up the gray slab then left onto the chocolate slab to double anchors. 190' 5.3

P3) Up to the left of the chocolate slab is a scooped depression with a light gray streak. Up into this then continue to the ridge and double anchors 190' 5.9- R

Register in a cairn on a ledge below the anchors.

Descent: Rap the route.

Move up a short ramp to a curving under-cut crack. This route is well protected and nice climbing.

P1)Using the under-cut crack reach a high hold then up to 3 Pro Bolts ,passed these and continue up cracks to the top and double anchors. Nice climbing. Rap the route.

This route is located just outside the mouth of Little Spotted Wolf Canyon on the South side.

Descent- Rappel the route with two ropes.

The route is located on the left side (south) of Little Spotted Wolf Canyon. The crack is mostly clean with perfect rock. Walk through SWC for about 5 mins passing the chocolate striped slab, around the corner at the other side of the slab/ridge is the fine left facing corner crack a few minutes hike up the steep talus.

P1) The crack starts at about 11/2". The first 70' or so is great 5.10 climbing. Then a short section of much easier, but much chossier rock is protected past three bolts under the mini roof. Thin hands over the roof lead to a two bolt anchor. 125' 5.10.

P2) Start out with fun 5.8 up the low angle crack to the steep off-width section that ends with a 5.10+ crux right at the top. 80' Two bolt anchor.

Register in cairn in alcove above belay.

Descent: Two 70m single rope raps get you to the ground. The second rap may require a touch of scrambling to the ground.

P1.A)A short crack above a bush on the right side of the slab. After the crack move slightly right and enter an obvious groove/crack. Follow this and exit left from a pro piton and cross a slab into another groove system with double anchors. 150' 5.6.

P1.B)An alternative first pitch but of lesser quality is the left slanting crack twenty feet left the original start. This leads directly to the double anchors at the foot of the upper groove system.150' 5.5

P2)Straight up groove until one can move left near the top and easy slab to summit anchors. 190'5.6. Rap the route.

P1) Very easy slab via a thin crack to an orange colored recess with double anchors 200'5.0. P2)Move out left and climb insipid cracks and grooves until they end then straight up center of the slab to double anchors. 200' 5.4R.P3). Climb straight up above belay to a shallow 15' groove,one can move left from its top to gain the summit or slightly more difficult climb directly up the slab above the groove.100'5.5/6. Rap the route.

This is the first climb on the left of the  DARK SIDE wall. It takes a rising traverse to the right linking onto the last two bolts of The Naked Truth. See Photo.This is another new line offered to a visiting climber from New Hampshire.

P1) Two cam placements lead to eleven bolts and more cam placements to double anchors about 15' to the right of the finish. Excellent climbing

This route takes a line up one of the most impressive pieces of rock in the Swell. All the pitches give sustained difficulty with excellent protection. A perfect sandstone introduction for sport climbers who climb to this grade or above. All pro bolts were placed on lead from natural stances.

On November 6th 2010 Bateman and Ross returned and Bateman reclimbed all the pitches without a fall. The route is left of another difficult Bateman /Folsom climb Wandering Poet.

P1)Starts about 100'left of The Wandering Poet by a light gray 8'high slab of rock. Climb past 16 bolts to a hanging belay and double anchors. A superb sustained pitch. 180' 5.12a

P2)Move left and climb over a small bulge and follow pro bolts up the black rock trending right to hanging belay and double anchors.80'5.11a

P3)Follow a slightly rising bolted traverse left to a hanging belay below the open groove.80'5.11a.

P4)Follow the crack under the overhang to enter the groove ,some cam placements plus bolts on this pitch. Up the groove to hanging belay and double anchors.80' 5.11a.

P5)Climb left to another difficlt groove/crack fault that leads steeply over the headwall, then an easier 20' slab that leads to double anchors ...the summit and fine views across the desert.80'5.11+.

Descent. A single rope rap from the top anchors to the belay at the start of P5,from here a long two rope rap to the belay at the top of the first pitch ,then one two rope rap from here to the ground.

This climb is a good introduction to the mid grade slab routes,as these routes are only 10 mins from the parking area.

P1).Follow the cracks passed two pro bolts to double anchors.150' 5.8+R.

P2)Straight up passed two more bolts to the crack at the top of the steep section. Above this an easier slab leads to top and double anchors.180. 5.8R.

Rap the route

Excellent route, solve the puzzles. Starts from the same ledge as The Dark Side.. see beta photo.

Up to a flake hole right of the Dark Side starting crack to a line of 10 bolts trending up to the right.Follow these with a couple of intermittent cam placements to a fine finish and double anchors.

Descent:- Rap this route or anchors at the  top of The Dark Side.

Scramble about 60' up easy slab to a ledge below the start of the crack.

P1)Follow the groove/crack to double anchors. 130' 5.7.

P2)Traverse up right to a bolt at 35' then enter the obvious groove and follow to the summit anchors. 190' 5.6.

(There is a register here abouts,and a wee bottle)Rap the route

Located in Spotted Wolf Canyon.A low grade route with some nice situations.The climb was named after a Bruce Springsteen song when we met up with a chap at the trail head with a guitar, asked by one of the party if he knew any songs by Bruce, he immediately bust into Dancin' the Dark. Quite appropriate! I guess to on-sighting a new slab climb.

P1). Start at the foot of the ridge. Climb an easy slab to where it steepens,climb past two bolts to double anchors. 200' 5.5.

P2).Continue around a big block then up the ridge keeping to the right,one bolt and some cam protection to double anchors. 200'5.5

P3).Keep to the right edge passed an exposed move, Natural pro to cam belay on big ledge to the left.200' 5.5.

P4).Follow the edge passed one bolt to double anchor belay at the top of the slab climb Scorpion that comes up from the left.150' 5.6.

Descent . Two raps down Scorpion then 4th class down the Amphitheater slabs.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in B Crags (Spotted Wolf Canyon)