Shadowfax is an amazing line with consistent good movement right up the beautiful Gates of Moria prow. Long moves to good holds make this a little easier if you're tall. See this pic

mountainproject.com/photo/1…

Shadowfax

The Ent

Balrog

Dwarf Toss

Fly, You Fools!

Azog the Goblin

Smeagol Stand

Durin's Stone

Smeagol Sit

Fool of a Took!

Mithril

Mithril is a great route! It is probably one of the best in the grade at Sailing Hawks with long reaches to good crimps right up the middle of the beautiful Gates of Moria prow. Dakota did the first ascent alone with one pad!, but I would highly recommend a spotter and a couple pads to protect the big rock behind you. (In the pic with the topo this is labeled Theory Has It... because Dakota decided to change the name to align with the lord of the rings theme after I had already created that topo pic).  See this pic

mountainproject.com/photo/1…

The Ent is a cool traverse with lots of squeezy moves that traverses right to left on the right side of the Gates of Moria.

Balrog climbs the beautiful arete at the back of the Lower Chamber of the Moria cave. It is really fun and a little harder than it might look at first, but it is easier if you are tall. There is definitely a longer version possible, though it would get high, continuing up and right.

Climb the path of least resistance up the right side of the north wall on the upper chamber.

This route ascends the direct / left side of the Gates of Moria prow. Sit start on the left arete, go straight up through a good ledge and crimps as Theory Has It, then continue straight up through a crack and crimp then eventually step out left for a safer/easier topout than Theory Has It. This is a great climb. See this pic

mountainproject.com/photo/1…

Start on the obvious jug rail, and move to a left sidepull, then the next jug rail, then up left over the lip. The hardest parts are not dragging your bum on the rocks behind you and not freaking out about the uneven rocky landing behind you later on. I'm rating this V4, but there are not really hard moves, so it may be easier if it get cleaned up more.

Climb sloppy crimps on the short wall on the north side of the lower chamber. As you are standing below

Balrog

arete looking down and into the cave, this route is right in front of you on the right side of the lower chamber of Moria.

Climb cool underclings and crimps up the right side of the north (left) wall of the upper chamber of Moria. There is a rock behind you, but it's easy to protect with a pad or two and a spot.

This is the sit/squat start to

Smeagol

.

This is a great high route in the center of the left (west) boulder on the big wall you see as you approach Moria from below (from the south). Luke that Fool of a Took sent the FA this with no pads and no spotter!, but I would highly recommend bringing both.

Start in the deep pockets ~chest high, and move up and slightly left to a huge ledge/jug, then climb up and right through great holds to a slot and the top. This is a highball -- bring some pads. This is a great climb.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Moria