Start on the Left side of the arete. Cross two horizontal cracks and step up into a recess on the left side of the arete. Clip a bolt, make a couple never wracking moves around the arete to clip another bolt a short distance up.  Cross another large horizontal and up a couple bulges to top out. 

Bloody Arete

Gunslinger

Flipper’s Testicle Stretch

Geronimo’s Escape

Almost Whitney

Start just right of Gunslinger and make a high step above the horizontal seam to a thin finger crack.  Work your way up the crack crossing two more shallow horizontals to top out on the rounded summit block.  Original rating 5.9 

Start on the right side of the boulder. pull a flake into the horizontal seam and plug some gear.  Step left onto a good ledge at the base of the seam.  Make some fun stemming moves up slick looking rock to a single bolt.  Make a few more exciting moves to top out. 

Just a good ’ol Mcdowell slab climb up using small crystals and nubbins.  It seems like there’s a good chance you can take one or two with you for the low price of your footing. Anyhoo, climb up the slab clipping bolts and placing gear in the horizontal towards the top.  

Start behind the boulder and make a few chimney moves up the chunky face. Pass a horizontal crack and then continue climbing right of the crumbly looking flake (it’s better than it looks) and through discontinuous tiny cracks to a tuft of grass with a handcrack above. unfortunately the hand crack sees you topping out.  No indian creek splitters here.

 Note: originally rated 5.6 

This is a short, sunny crag located on the trail to the Half and Half area.  The climbs are interesting and the rock ranges from pretty good to questionable.  You can trust your rubber but can you trust that nubbin you just put all your weight on?  Maybe... maybe not.   

  Fort Mcdowell is easily top roped by continuing up the trail on the right side of the crag and then cutting left at the most logical point to reach the top.  From the top scramble down into a chute and either over a boulder (to reach climber’s right route anchors) or left and through the cave (climber’s left routes anchors)

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Fort McDowell