Start below a blankish looking slab. Crank out a couple of moves on small crimps and then scurry up the dihedral. Coming around the corner and onto the face is a bit exciting! When first put up this route was very dirty (hence the 0 star rating in the RRG guidebook) but it has cleaned up now and is worth getting on although it doesn't make the best warm up due to the crimpy first moves.

Mellow Yellow

Starfish and Coffee

A Farewell to Arms

The Crucible

Babyface

Iniquity

Shiva

Vortex

Tree Hugger

Tapeworm

Cell Block Six

Bring your bouldering skills.

The route starts with a V4-V5 boulder problem on tiny crimps. Bring edgy shoes.

Once passed the buiness, embark on a magical journey of long reached on big holds on a slightly overhanging face. Move right to a huge no hands rest and make a scary clip.

Make your way up to smaller holds before engaging the dynamic finish on big holds.

ouf.

P.S. If you can't make the start, I still suggest you try the rest of the route.  Very very exciting.

Work up and left of Farewall to Arms to some huecos and good holds on some sweet, steep, suspect rock that should improve with traffic.

This climb while not quite as classic as other Midnight surf routes is still worth a run.  Climbs more like a standard RRG route with a more diverse set of holds than other Midnight Surf routes.  There are fewer lock of moves between huge holds, and more pockets and edges.

Begin in a small right facing dihedral and make more difficult than they look moves past the first few bolts to a nice rest.  Contemplate the large roof ahead,  When ready battle thru the roof and up the pumpy headwall saving some juice for challenging moves getting to and clipping the anchors.

Make one tricky move off the ground, then climb easy moves to a large roof.  None of the holds immediately over the roof are that great, but the further you can reach the better they get.  Once over the roof, race the pump with a final redpoint crux up high, before encountering jugs to clip the anchors from.

Long, pumpy and slopey climbing with a crux near the top.

Preclip, and then launch into a little bouldery section leaving the ground. Long reaches between excellent jugs and slots eventually give way to a cramped, berry-filled coffin rest. Once you tire of staring at the rock six inches from your face, unwind out of the rest to a perch below the intimidatingly blank crux section.

An enormous undercling huck marks the beginning of the powerful crux sequence. A clip and then a huge lateral stab lead to some slightly-worse-than-you-want hooded edges, culminating in a leap for a glory jug. Enjoy the victory lap to the anchors.

Don't cheat yourself by detouring left of the crux - you'll be missing out on some of the most fun and gymnastic climbing on the Midnight Surf wall.

Steep, sustained pockets with the occasional rest jug and a crux at the top

Scramble up a dirty slab, and make a few tricky vertical moves to reach the base of the overhanging wall above.  Pull over a small roof, then follow decent pockets past a few resting jug to a crux on small pockets and edges just below the anchors.

Excellent rock and moves.  This one is all about endurance and recovery.

Begin just left of a big tree below a pod.  A hard move off a side pull at the third bolt starts the steep climbing.  Traverse right on jugs before tackling steep pockets and flakes culminating in a big move above the last bolt just right of the tree.  It may feel like the tree is right below you but the line keeps it off to the side.  A 2 bolt extension after the anchors keeps the journey going on vertical rock but may be wet.

Another high quality line at Midnight Surf at a modest grade compared to its neighbors.

Tapeworm is the other "must-do" route at Midnight Surf, along with Cell Block Six, & Iniquity.  However, Tapeworm (mostly*) lacks the no-hands rests that ruin the continuity of its neighbors.  The climbing is more of the same: huge moves between horizontal breaks, culminating in a big pump and a heart-breaking boulder problem just below the chains.

Begin up the fragile, left-facing flake.  Easier moves lead between horizontal bands.  Around the 3rd bolt, a difficult crimp move gains a good jug, and more long reaches.  Rest at a big horn just above the 4th bolt.  The first crux follows, a big dyno or thin cranking to reach the big horizontal pod below the 6th bolt.  There's a blury picture of guidebook author Ray Ellington doing this move on the 2nd or 3rd page of the latest guidebook.

Pumpy moves lead up to one last rest before the redpoint crux: a difficult, boulder problem on rounded crimps, 5 feet below the anchor.

(*If you really want to turn a 4 star 12d into a 3 star 12c, there are apparently some no-hands options way out left).

Starts in a dihedral-like crack slowly making its way to pumpy overhanging jugs.  Long moves, big holds, big fun.

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Routes in Midnight Surf