Clip the first bolt, lock off, and make a long reach to a slopey hold. Make your way up under the roof with a challenging mantel. Traverse out the roof, and cut your feet loose to get them on the arete at the lip of the roof. Layback and squeeze your way up delicate and powerful climbing to get to more positive holds above the bulge to get to the anchors.

Peanut the Wonder Horse

Gut Bomb

Tailwinds

Chocolate Corner

When Can I Hit That

Brown Bunny

Paper

Morning Thunder

Silent But Deadly

Racing Stripes

F.U.D.G.E.

Slanty Crack

Tusk

Snapping Station

Can You Spare a Square? (18)

Mr. Hanky

Heinous Anus

The Throne Room

Holy Crap

Upperdeck-n-spackle

Turd Burglar

Junk in the Trunk

Tramp Stamp

Plastic

This has reasonably fun climbing on decent rock. The crux involves liebacking and stemming up a sometimes slick corner. The rock is pretty solid until the end where there are definitely some blocks that should be cleaned out; just watch what you grab as the route heads right towards the anchors at the top of the climb.

This is the 3rd set of bolts from the left side of the lower left side.  It has fun holds on less than vertical rock.  It is mostly 5.7 climbing with a few moves of 5.9.

Climb the gully/chimney past 5 bolts. For the most part, this is an easy scramble. The bolts serve to keep the rope running smoothly and out of the garbage in the gully.

After the 5th bolt and right before a chockstone, begin climbing up the line of bolts on the steep face to your left. The climbing is sustained from here but well-protected. A mix of balancy and slightly awkward laybacking and smearing on steep rock will keep you on your toes. Halfway up there is a Thank God flake to grab onto and feel good about.

Ascend with bouldery, oppositional climbing through the first 5 bolts with a cool exit sequence into the dihedral that intersects

Tramp Stamp

, then follow bolts up and left through a moderate (both grade and quality) exit.

FWIW, the highest quality, 4 star line would be to link into

Tramp Stamp

after the 6th bolt and finish on that route.

In between the main buttresses is a steep slab with a large roof above.  This climb is the middle climb up the slab.  Climb up the slab to a set of anchors (5.11d).  Set up for the roof and  go for it.  I have not done the second pitch.  The first pitch is a worthwhile outing itself.

Paper is probably the best 5.10 at the crag. Find a bolted, round buttress next to an of-width, jagged crack. Climb small crystals with help from the right part of the formation. Place a long draw below the roof and pull over.  Head "left" for Paper (right for

Plastic

). Continue up some slanted terrain, and finish on some small features to the finish.

Lower over the overhanging terrain.

'Morning Thunder' is a wonderfully continuous climb up a very nice panel of quality red granite. The main portion of the climb consists of sustained 5.11 and 5.12 climbing on fantastic incut edges and sidepulls.

Begin by working up past three bolts that protect the approach gully to the base of the climb proper. Next head straight up clipping 8 bolts before glancing right after the eighth bolt to the anchors shared with the route to the immediate right (Chocolate Corner).

The crux for most will be a sequence about 2/3 of the way up the route where you must make a series of moves using a vertical, shallow, flaring crack for your right hand before making a long move to a decent left hand hold and a brief rest - the fun part is that this section comes after you have already done several 5.12 sections!! The climbing is difficult from the moment you step out of the gully until you latch a key jug above the final bolt.

The route wanders up the left side of The Left Cheek. The crux is at the second bolt. Climb the route, and belay your second from the top. The anchors are set back on the Tramp Stamp Ledge.

This route goes up the green/yellow lichened face between

The Throne Room

(5.12d in the black streak) on the left, and

Upperdeck-n-spackle

(a 5.10b jug haul) on the right.

Some intense stemming down low took me to some incut crimps, to a throw to the huge rounded knob on the ledge after the 2nd bolt. From there, the route is pumpy but all there.

This is a really fun route - great jugs and fun moves on overhanging solid rock. Maybe it is a little easy for the grade, since the crux is so short-lived....

This is a fun moderate that gains access to the top of Wipeyur.  Scramble to the top past the anchors and have a picnic.

Follow the left-leaning crack from the base of

Tailwinds

to the top of

Junk in the Trunk

using varied, solid jams from fingers to fists, usually with good feet. This is a nice crack for those who like that kinda thing.

It has probably has be TR'ed before. Who knows if it has been led before?. I had 3 cams and some nuts lying around, so I went for it. You can either place only gear or clip a few bolts as you go, including one to protect the start.

Start on the obvious slab below the roof which is about 10a. Then, go to the short and steep dihedral. The crux is reaching  out of the dihedral to a hold that looks like a tusked shaped turd then go for a sloping rail and traverse to the right to the roof and hang on for dear life to the anchors.

Pull through a series of crumbling overhangs to a short roof with an excellent undercling.  Pull a few hard moves through the overhang, and watch with amazement as another 'hang appears above.  Follow some intricate moves to the second overhang, then pull through and right over the lip to easier (5.10) face climbing.

Sustained, pumpy, long, this is a must do.  It is recommended that it be cleaned by a second, since cleaning from the top can result in an unsafe swing.

"Ascend the left side of the Brown Bunny alcove." -Rakkup

Climb slab through the first five bolts, then pull over a medium roof to another 15 feet of slab to the anchors. This has great holds and good bolt spacing.

"This is a favorite if you're from South Park, I guess. Start off with a big pull on a big chunk reminiscent of Mr. Hanky, then go up the face on good holds past the crux. Then it is slab climbing to the anchors." Tod Anderson

Start by climbing fun, slabby rock up the prow of the arete (5.11-) to a good rest. Next glance right making use of a crack and face holds on a bulge to gain a good rest on a slab at about the midway point of the route. Next head up and around the corner to the right, stemming and underclinging (crux) to the top of the pillar and the anchor.

The rock on the Upper Deck Ledge is overhanging, good quality, and offers fun moves. I didn't do this route myself but wanted to put it on MP, so that it's there for you to tick and offer your beta.

Holy Crap is probably the centerpiece route at Wipeyur Buttress.  The climbing is steep, athletic, technical, and sustained.

Begin by figuring out a good plan for the belayer.  The belay area is steep with multiple small ledges, and there are tradeoffs in terms of seeing the climber, reducing rope drag, and avoiding rockfall.

The route starts at the bottom of the corner and shoots straight right on steep rock with good holds for 3 or 4 bolts (this section can be a little wet during rainy weather).  Jet straight up through the true crux, and try to regain some juice for the relentless series of potential heartbreaker, redpoint cruxes above.  This section isn't really that hard, but it is very sustained and pumpy.  The rock on the upper section is very smooth and technical.

The climbing is fantastic, but be careful for some loose holds. Wwe pulled a few off, and there are some others that are iffy also.

This has a pumpy, slightly overhanging start.  Reach high for some tricky better than they look holds.  You can belay your second from a kinda half-hanging belay, and then summit Wipeyur with a short third pitch by climbing directly above and clipping the last few bolts of

F.U.D.G.E.

to a two bolt anchor.

This is a fun route with two cruxy sections. Tod Anderson's guide calls it 10c, but it's soft for that grade.

This route is on the lower left side of the buttress and if you follow the trail from mm 10 you end up at the base.  It climbs the second set of bolts on the south slab.  Nice views and fun climbing.

From the guidebook: "Begin on the lower left side of the slab near an indentation.  This route features some of the thinnest slab climbing on the buttress."

Tramp Stamp is the namesake route on the Tramp Stamp Ledge accessed by one of the many slab routes at the base of Wipeyur. The climb tackles what looks like seldom travels fractured granite to a wonderful corner system and bullethard stone. It is worth the effort and has great views from the top. I will say, however, that this climb, at one point may have been clean, now sheds quite a bit in the lower section.

This is not my route; I am just filling in the database.

This is fun. It shares the first part of

Paper

, (up to the roof), but continues right [straight up] to separate anchors. (

Paper

diverges left at the roof.)

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Wipeyur Buttress