This route has traditionally been described as separate from Haystack Rock, and while it is not on the pinnacle, the approach and return are the same so it makes sense to include it with Haystack.

Climb the long, mostly 4th class chimney in one or two pitches to the top of a block that is separated, by the chimney, from the main wall. Rappel back to the ledge against the main wall and head back to the saddle at Haystack.

Auxier Chimney

Original Route

South East Face

Dirty Rastafarian Scoundrels

Girdle Traverse

Haystack

Nice heady scramble with serious risk involved. This is the easiest technical route to the summit of Haystack, but not the safest. From the saddle traverse the ledge left around the rock to the SW corner (very exposed and very high). HEad up the slabby face to the summit. Alternately, continue around the rock, completing the girdle with a top rope.

Scramble up into the rockhouse. Exit the left edge of the rockhouse on a short, but good face. No pro.

Start a few feet in to the Girdle Traverse at a mid-sized tree on the ledge. There is a hard to see crack that begins halfway up. The crack itself faces SE. Climb face to a ledge/alcove and then follow the crack to the summit.

Begins with a tricky traverse. Then the route ascends an increasingly exposed face up ledges and well featured slabs.

This is the most obvious line from the saddle which passes through the hueco with a short crack above it. Climb into the hueco from the left and exit it right or left protecting out of the crack.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Haystack Rock