This is the first route you get to if approaching from the south. This route involves some thought provoking airy arete moves through 4 bolts. The crux is moving over the second bolt. Worth doing if you are at Gallows edge.

Dave And Crissa's Route

Quality Control Be Damned

Crack Right of Quality Control

Forgotten Crack

This is another thought provoking route for the grade. The crux is over the first bolt. There is an optional 1 inch gear placement between the second and third bolt if you are not comfortable with the minor run out. Gain a ledge over the third bolt to a blocky exit.

The crack immediately right of Quality Control Be Damned is a decent beginner trad lead, with ample opportunities for placing pro from good stemming stances.  Start with the crack on either side of the block at the beginning.  Good stemming and fun climbing in the middle.  The crux is at a steeper section at the top with big holds.  There was some rubble and looseness on this line, we cleaned some of it off, but it's still nothing close to immaculate. 

  If this type of 5.4-5.7 shorty trad climbs interests you, there are a few lines similar to this that can be found on the Upper Ledge of Gallows, just find a good one and go for it.

Forgotten Crack is a forgettable splitter hand/fist crack in the Upper Gallows Edge region.  This climb is rated with lots of quality stars in both the online Gallows Edge guide and Jemez Rock, but taller and more sustained cracks can be found at the nearby ONP or BONP cliffs in my opinion.. 

  Start by stemming behind a block to the right, then follow splitter finger/hand crack up slab down low, then through a splitter hand crack crux up high, keeping an eye out for good footholds. 

  Soft for a 5.9 in White Rock, if you know how to hand jam.

The small cliff above the Main Wall at Gallows Edge. Two bolted routes and a decent crack climb are found here.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Upper Tier