These twin cracks follow either a right facing dihedral or left facing dihedral just to the right of Fantasy & Weasels Ripped My Flesh. Relatively interesting and sometimes dirty.

Twin Cracks

Psilocybin

Gill's Nose

Blood Alcohol

A Cleveland Route

Gill's Crack

Acid Rock

Peyote Blues

The Spine

Glutton for Punishment

Weasels Ripped My Flesh

Gills Nose Direct

Fantasy

The A-Frame (aka Uranus)

In Search of the Lost Libido

Gill's Cheek

Boy Scout

Start on the face 8 feet from right corner.  Climb up and slightly right to a side pull directly under the roof.  The next 8 feet is difficult and thin climbing heading up and slightly to the right.  Easier climbing will take you back to the left finishing at the notch in top of wall.  A very technical and sustained climb.  This is a really nice but overlooked route with a lot of climbing for a short distance.

Sweet clean crimping on the flawless rock at the Lake. Bring your crimpers,.. and some shoulder power to push/pull through the left leaning crux.

Gill climbed it first, but a foothold broke shortly thereafter.  Locate the slab between Brinton's and Gill's Buttresses--the route climbs the prominent nose to the right of the slab.  A classic Devil's Lake hard route.   

  At the crux, the original line goes left to a big flat jug and clocks in at 11b. However, the more direct finish (keeping your right hand on or near the corner) certainly requires an 11c effort.

The crux on this DLSP testpiece,.. is keeping the blood from blowing out the ends of your fingertips. Ultra-classic eliminate,.. all you Lakers, know what's up. One of the hardest routes at the Lake. Climbed in the early 1990's.

Starts part way up the Boyscott, left of Gills Crack, climbs face, crux is the last 8ft where face is slightly overhanging, some very tricky cool moves, just wish it started from the ground vs part way up Boyscott, 

  needs to be a No Boyscout day, to do this route,

Gill's Crack is a strenuous route up the steep west face of Gill's Buttress.  Start out by climbing about halfway up the slab of Boyscout (rt 57).  When you reach the waterstained rock with a faint crack, begin your ascent up the face to your right.  Thin moves near the bottom transition into finger jams and laybacks about 20 feet up.  The crux, in my opinion, occurs just before the depression in the rock that leads into the hanging dihedral.  A fun route!

Scramble uphill between Pedestal and Gill's buttresses. The route starts from the flat detached block that forms a platform below Gill's buttress. From the platform, step across gap on the right side of the thin face. Make several moves up and then a powerful move left on microscopic feet: the iron cross. Your goal is to stick the "Crouton Check valve" (a "crouton" being an old Lake term for a gumby).  Now the difficulties have started!  Move up the center of the face, avoiding the left edge if possible. May not be quite 40', but it feels like an entire rope length.  Beta-intensive.

 The story of the ​first lead​​​ is in the MP Forum.

stupendous effort by strongman dave groth in about 1985 or 86.  follow the right side of arete at gills nose and join peyote blues?

Slightly more difficult than Acid Rock, Peyote Blues climbs the right side of the Gill's Nose arete. Starting on the huge block (as per Acid rock), climb left to the corner, slap the corner, and continue to the top. Unusual for a 5.12 at the Lake, Peyote has no crimps on it. Expect extreme body tension moves and large, generally bad holds.

This short, but appealing crack/chimney, protects well and would make a good introduction to climbing or leading.  Start in cleft above tree using both walls to ascend. 

Variation 5.6: Start from the Acid Rock start ledge and diligently avoid the right-hand wall while focusing your attention on the crack in the left-hand wall.  If it was longer and not an eliminate this variation would be a four star route.

Thin, complicated, hard and contrived variation to Acid Rock. Climb right side of face only avoiding any obvious large holds, and ultimatly who gives a f... anyway.——————————————————————-Route name history: 9/2020This climb was first done 38 years ago by myself and Dale. The original name was our way of making fun of ourselves (never miss an opportunity  for that!) for repeatedly punishing ourselves on this thin,complicated, contrived yet independent face climb. Hence the original name, which is also derived from the old saying “glutton for punishment “. Forgive us for our misguided youthful exuberance ! “ He was a very nice boy ,he used to cut the grass.....until he started listening to Zappa and going rock climbing”.The original name has now  been redacted by MP administration . I for one will not look at this as a problem, but rather an opportunity. I am now changing the name of  this climb to “Glutton for Punishment”.Some folks were offended by the original name. Some will be offended by the new name. And some punters will even be offended that I changed the name at all. You can’t please everyone! C’est la vie.My late friend Richard “Prunes” Bechler (prez of Dlfa ) is definitely laughing his ass off from the great beyond over my predicament and current state of affairs. Glad to offer up some entertainment for ya Rich !!RIP old buddy.

Climb the face directly below the notch to the left of Fantasy.  You will find the crux in the middle of the climb, left hand up to a tiny and sharp crimper, bring both feet up and launch the right hand to an innocent looking jug.  Unfortunately, the jug is as sharp as a knife and you may lose a finger.  Another option is to proceed up and slightly left from the sharp crimper to other micro-sharp holds.  Either way your fingers lose, there is a reason this climb is often overlooked.

The more straight up variation of Gills Nose, this is one of the finest routes on the bluff. Climb the first half of the route and continue straight up instead of left to a jug for Gills Nose regular. Some people use the arete, some don't. The sequence for the top is always seeming to change. Gain the ledge and then a few trivial moves for the top out.

The A-Frame is a dirty chimney that climbs up through a tight hole from the base of the Gills Buttress mass, up to the top of the  pillar where Acid Rock, Peyote Blues, etc start.       From the base of the climb you'll see an obvious large, left leaning block called the Shaft. Climb under the Shaft to the left, up through the small hole, and continue on through the tight, wet, but surprisingly not-dirty chimney through a few actually fun moves. Because of the wetness there is practically no friction in the A-Frame - even by Devils Lake standards.

O' I dunno, just try it. Crimps, heel hooks, etc.

From the DL guide:   "GILL'S CHEEK, 5.11d/12a. Climb wall between Gill's Nose and Gill's Crack, avoiding holds on other climbs."

This route is best is best when simul-climbed or soloed, unless you are a boy scout.  It is the big chimney and slab in the corner to the right of Brinton's Crack and left of Gill's Nose. 

  Good first simul-climb, watch for pigeons, and be sure to kiwi-coil rope.

Gill's Buttress might be the best spot on the East Rampart, though nearby Brinton's Buttress might give it a run for it's money. Gill's Buttress holds a higher density of hard climbs than any other wall at DL. Classics 5.12's such as Acid Rock and Peyote Blues ascend the perfectly sheer, perfectly vertical south face of the buttress. Notorious thin and nightmarishly technical 5.13's such as Ice and Psilocybin also grace this wall. 

  But, of course, the centerpiece of the buttress is Gill's Nose, an aptly named route with a colorful history and just enough pro to beckon some brave souls into a lead. Just to it's left, Gill's Crack holds its own history, and might be one of the best 5.10's at the Lake. But, as with every route on the buttress, it has a bit of a reputation.

Description

Protection

Routes in 06: Gill's Buttress