For those trying to pull extra hard at the Gnat Man Crag. Just to the left of Knock the Bottom out of it, start up a cool hueco/cave system to a high first bolt. Crank the crimpy and kind of scary crux to a difficult second clip. Another couple bolts lead to the obligatory Gnat Man slab runout to a gear anchor way up high. Not much change for gear up high.

Gnat Man on Ranch Hands

Knock the Bottom Out of It

Mad Mission

P-Coat Sleeve

Night Slabbing

Ghouls Just Wanna Have Fun

P-Coat Junction

Bottoms up

Day of the Jackholes

Jonnold Arete

Climb straight up the central left-facing corner on the Gnat Man cliff.

Start just left of Bottoms Up below a patch of varnish. Climb slabby wall past 4 bolts. Easy up high. Crux is getting to the first bolt. The move is committing and awkward. I got a "good" RP in a seam by the large hole/pocket. Good climbing past the bolts.

Follow the bolts up the arete that lies on the right of Bottoms Up.Mostly mellow (5.9/5.10-?) climbing with a 5.11- crux in the middle where the holds disappear. There's a bolt where you want it.

Climb the thin crack about 10 feet left of Ghouls Just Wanna Have fun.

There is a crack system about 20 feet left of Ghouls Just Wanna Have Fun.  Crank a hard move at the bottom, then follow the crack.  Go right where it ends.

Good crack, good pro, spicy crux (for 5.7 anyway).

 Bottoms Up is the well-defined left-facing corner, and disjoint cracks, located on the right side of Gnat Man Crag. Negotiate a tricky start in the clean corner, then head up the classic crack, place some good pro below the bulge and head left and up to the next crack. Follow the 2nd crack as it angles right to the two-bolt anchor.

 The bulge is definitely the mental crux, because there isn't any pro until you reach the 2nd crack.

 The height of the bolt anchors is about 27 meters, so a 60m rope is sufficient.

 Descent: Rappel from the bolted anchor. If this anchor goes missing, head right/west until you find easy 3rd class terrain to scramble back to the valley floor.

Start in the Gully at the left edge of the wall. Climb a corner/crack over a couple of roofs, and continue up to an anchor. The anchor is not equipped for rap/lowering.

Good moderate one pitch crack climbs, and two classic 5.10/5.11 bolted climbs.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Gnat Man Crag