Deviation left off J.O.B (@ 3'd bolt)Traverse left into the proud prow of red stone.Make some fun moves on softer stone until gaining the stance before the lip toss.Throw big to the hero jug, mantle it up and crank on big chickenheads to the chains.Deceptively pumpy and fun. A new age classic not to be missed next time you're at the Throne!*extended draw/alpine sling for the 6'th bolt would be useful.

Dirt Devil

Abednego

Darkness at Noon

King's Dream

Schneider's Chimney

Meshach

Easy Out

Out and About

Shadrach

Job 3:25 (aka No Fear)

Cell-Dweller

Cally's Flakes

Cat on a Hot Tin Roof

Windy Armbuster

Fantastic overhanging face climb up beautiful orange rock.  The climbing is pump with a technical crux about 1/3 of the way up.  It doesn't get much better than this.  The movement and ascethitics of this climb are hard to come by.  The best thing about it is that its "trad".

 One of the best routes in the State!

Climb 10 feet up to the handcrack, using it to surmount the bulge.  From there, take the path of least resistance for another 50 feet to the top.  Good rock.

The obvious corner crack in the back left  of the cave begins with 15 feet of dirty off-width and turns to perfect tight hands to finish up. Keep your eye out for feet on the left wall.. oh and bring a head lamp.    There is a second and third pitch described in the 2nd edition of the Cole Fennel's guide book...

Start on the slippery slab and pull over the right-angling roof crack onto the chicken heads

A couple options for the opening moves access the flared chimney proper above. A series of chimney moves and interesting body positions help push through the crux section half way up and into some easier opposition moves and stems to a good tree anchor. 

Climb 10 feet up to the fist crack, using it to surmount the bulge.  From there, take the path of least resistance for another 50 feet to the top.  Good rock.

Follow the left edge of the Chickenhead Wall, staying right of the edge.

Essentially the third pitch of Darkness at Noon. At the mouth of the cave opening climb a left angling seam with decent gear to a ledge. Work around crappy rock getting up into the roof crack. Establish yourself and make the move. Extend pro. Fun easy climbing upstairs.

Climb the short slabby section to the overhanging handcrack.  Pull the small roof and continue up the wall to the top on chickenheads.

One of the best moderate sport routes at Sam's 

  Begin on section of rather crumbly rock until you reach a steep headwall. From here a fun v1 boulder sequence gets you through the crux and onward to chicken head bashing up top. 

  The route used to have a fun little run out at the top but has since been retro bolted and is completely safe.  

  Classic

I don't how many times I went into this cave to try and climb this route and found it wet. Eventually I peeked in when it was "dry enough".   

  This route will never, EVER be a classic. It is either wet, or hosts a coating of dirt and guano at any given time. That said, a little cleaning effort and it's ready to go. Or, if you are looking for a good crack to practice aid in a cool cave, THIS is what you are looking for- plus it has anchors already. A fun place to go at night. 

  The free climbing is dynamic and thin, but with short lived difficulty.

Pull the bulge just off the ground, heading up and left to gain the crack system.  Climb on decent rock to the steep hand/fist crack.  Here, work your way up over the bulge via the crack on great rock.  Continue in the crack and on a face to the top.

Climb the fistcrack 30 feet to the base of the roof. Pull the roof via the crack, holds, or anything that works (not your gear, you cheater). Good rock, especially at the roof.You can make this a two pitch outing and belay just above the roof to reduce drag, or continue to the top in the large crack.  If continuing to the anchors in a single pitch, consider placing a directional to the left or right once you get established above the roof to ensure your rope doesnt get stuck.  The rope drag is pretty hard to avoid no matter what you do.

This is the low-angled slab with jugs all over behind the massive boulder.  This is often used as a walkout area by confident climbers.  This area also covers routes extending past the large cave and all the way to the Reality Wall.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Chickenhead Wall