Best route on this wall. Super fun moves on big crimps and slightly overhung in parts. Uses the left arete in other parts (i.e. the crux).

There used to be a pretty un-Vantage-like runout between the 6th and 7th clip (old descrption: "It's pretty easy ground, but best be a confident 5.9+ climber in this terrain, or you're going to have a spicy time").  But an 8th bolt appears to have been added, so now the bolting resembles typical Vantage.

There's some suspect, lichen covered rock up top, but it's holding up nicely.

Lord of The Flies

Easy Rider

Deadbeat Dads

In Search of The Elusive Ringtail

Working Mothers

Fun and well-protected face and arete climbing on classic Vantage .10a holds. The right arete is a really cool feature. Stem across the chimney onto the column that Lord Of The Flies (5.10b) ascends, as needed.

No defined crux but the mental crux comes at/near 4th bolt where you have to compress with the right hand against the inside of the chimney. WATCH OUT FOR LOOSE EVERYTHING HERE.

Shares chain anchors on the pillar top with Deadbeat Dads (5.7).

Heads up a licheny pillar using the right arete. Lots of good holds, but many are thin and feel like they could eventually break, though nothing is loose as of late March 2020.

Crux is matching hands on the right arete.

Has its own independent chain anchor.

Face climb on crimps up to the top of a short pillar. The route tops out on the right side of the face (look for the semi-hidden 5th clip). It's possible to top out left and somewhat easier, but there's lots of loose rock and it's kind of runout since you can't clip the last bolt.

Shares chains with Working Mothers (5.10a).

Low angle chimney climbing on lichen covered basalt. Appeared kind of awkward and didn't look particularly featured as far as footholds go; looks like proper chimney moves only. Not sure how good the gear placements would be either.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Porcupine Alcove