This was the first climb established on the Weeping Wall and was so named because the first ascent party got a "surprise" when the blank-looking face went at such a moderate grade. A good introduction to the wall although most parties elect to do the direct finish in lieu of the somewhat loose original third pitch.

P1) Start in the middle of the wall and climb a short right-facing corner system (thin pro), then continue up and left on unprotected but very easy face (5.0) to a 3 bolt anchor. P2) Up and right along a ramp/flake system to reach a bolt (5.8) and then into an easy right-facing corner atop which is a 3 bolt belay. P3) Up a crack which turns into a flared chimney higher. Belay from gear at the top and descend via Bye Gully.

Surprise

Clam Chowder

Duck Soup

Commencement

Surprise Direct

Ten Karat Gold

Change in the Weather

Green Monster

Bye Gully

Serpentine

Revelation

White Line Fever

Dire Straits

Bathsheba

Sampson

This route lies to the left of Surprise, although the two climbs share a belay ledge at the top of pitch 1.  For pitch 1, start 20' left of Surprise and solo up the face.  After a 5.7 move near the ground, the difficulty eases up.  Pitch 2 (5.10A) is sustained, protected by bolts, with some exciting runouts.  Pitch 3 (5.8) eases up after about 20' and leads to the top.  This climb goes into the shade in mid-afternoon.

This route takes the plumline up the face and features the hardest climbing of all the routes on the Weeping Wall.

P1) Start in the middle of the wall and climb a short right-facing corner system (thin pro), then continue straight up past two widely spaced bolts (5.10a) to a 2 bolt anchor. P2) Two more bolts up an waterstreak (5.10c) on this short but cruxy pitch. P3) Five more bolts (5.10a) will see you to the top of the face. Descend via Bye Gully.

This is a two pitch face route on the left side of the Weeping Wall.  Pitch 1 (5.6) up the center of a slab which rests against the wall.  There is no protection on this pitch, but a series of pockets make it feel more secure than most friction pitches.  Pitch 2 has a short crux section, which is well-protected.

This is a third pitch variation to

Surprise

that improves upon that route with a slightly harder but much cleaner last pitch.

P1) Start in the middle of the wall and climb a short right-facing corner system (thin pro), then continue up and left on unprotected but very easy face (5.0) to a 3 bolt anchor.

P2) Up and right along a ramp/flake system to reach a bolt (5.8) and then into an easy right-facing corner atop which is a 3 bolt belay (the regular belay for Surprise). Clip this anchor and continue right to a separate 2 bolt anchor.

P3) Steep friction face (5.9) past three bolts to a gear belay on top.

Descend via the Bye Gully.

Ten Karat Gold is perhaps the finest route on the Weeping Wall and comes highly recommended, but be aware it's fairly runout with some long falls possible.

P1) Climb past two bolts, make a traverse right and then up to a third bolt (5.9); higher two more bolts lead to a 2 bolt anchor.

P2) The Window Pane Pitch. A crux almost directly off the belay as you traverse right to a small stance and the first of two bolts on this runout pitch.

Clip the bolt and work your way upwards making a 5.9 move way out from your last bolt. Clip the second bolt and your home free - a bit of slab paddling gains the top.

Descend via Bye Gully.

This is a sustained, high quality one-pitch face route at the right edge of the Weeping Wall.  There are long runouts getting up to the first bolt, and going from the second bolt up to the top.  This route will force you to think about your footwork!

This is a short route, but the climbing is quite enjoyable.  It's in the shade all day.  From about half way up Bye Gully, you can see bolts on the steep left wall - start the climb here.  It involves knobby face moves on superb rock.

Bye Gully is the large chimney system on the left margin of the Weeping Wall that's primarily used as a descent route. It can be climbed but be aware that on a busy weekend you may feel like a salmon trying to swim upstream with all of the people downcliming it.

The climb ends at Paisano Ledge, which is atop the right shoulder of the Sunshine Face. From here those wishing to go higher can climb one of several friction routes to the top of the rock or climb the nearby Paisano Pinnacle. To descend rap from bolts back down Bye gully and do a bit of downclimbing to reach your pack.

This is a high quality slab route on great rock.  It has three pitches:  5.8, 5.9, and 5.7.  The bolts are fairly easy to spot - the biggest danger is heading for a bolt on a nearby (harder) route by mistake.  This climb gets morning sun, and then goes into the shade in mid-afternoon.

The descent is easy - just walk to the right until you can scramble down and back along the base of the rock or rappel and down-climb Bye Gully.

This classic slab route goes up the center of the Weeping Wall, with two hanging belays en route.  Pitch 2 (5.10A) is very sustained.  Pitch 3 (5.10A) has the hardest move on the climb.  It is in the sun until mid-afternoon.

An alternative finish to Ten Karat Gold and is reported in the book to be "better protected"...kinda true.

Improbable slab climbing that beckons for faith in your rubber.

Instead of heading right on 10k go straight up past two bolts to the top. I went slightly left from the anchor to get over to the first bolt. After the second bolt the climbing gets easy but you will be well run out.

Begin midway between Serpentine and Revelation. Climb up to a small overlap (thin pro here) then make crux slab moves just above it (5.10a). Continue up (5.8 R/X) to the second bolt on Serpentine, then climb slightly right, then directly up (5.8 R/X) to the Serpentine belay.

Climb the first 2 pitches of Sampson, to the bolt belay where Change in the Weather ends. Climb the arete/face just right of Sampson's final pitch, ending at a pine tree belay.

This route follows a prominent left-facing corner at the right end of the Weeping Wall.  Pitch 1 goes up a short, awkward corner to a good ledge.  Pitch 2 (5.8) goes up the unaesthetic corner above, with somewhat tricky protection.  Now you are at the base of a huge dihedral.  Climb up the dihedral (a lot of face climbing, with small gear in the crack), follow the corner as it arches left, carefully place protection, and do the crux mantle to the top of the climb.

Description

Protection

Routes in (m) The Weeping Wall