From base of 5 5s Climb up right to thin finger crack. Follow crack over little roof (crux #1) to stance. Move up to large ledge and clip bolt on LEFT side of arete. Continue up lie backing left side of very fun arete following 2 more bolts(crux #2). Continue on, passing more bolts on low angle slab. End at anchors for Madam Bovary.

Easier Said than Done (EStD)

Madame Bovary (FA's original name)

Easier Done Than Said

Upper Level - No Expectations

Adrenal Line

Comfort Zone A.K.A. Marmalade

Power and the Glory (FA's original name)

Said and Done

Upper Level - Golden Tripel

Psycho Thriller

White Rhino

Crap Crack

Upper Level -Banshee

Wots ur Safe Word?

kwaJimu

Fanagle

Black Crack

Blind Leading the Naked

Bushpig

Shady Lane

Upper Level - Midas Touch

Climb to first bolt on Easier said then done. Move left on feet with tiny hand holds to a mono pocket. Move straight up (Madam Bovary is off) Clipping next bolt. Move up again on non-existent feet. Clip then traverse right on non-existent feet and no hands to a key and hidden side pull. Clip. Move up and slightly left over steeper terrain with non-existent feet and tiny hand holds (crux). From here move up on 5.10-ish terrain following 2 more bolts. Finally mantling and continue on the remaining 2 bolts of Easier said than done.

Pitch 1. Climb obvious 90' dihedral north of hand crack. It's an off-width crack. This crack is super rad in that vedauwoo kind of way. The crux is about 30' in length with a balancy stem section on top.

 Pitch 2. 60' Climb corner/face to anchors.

From the ground between 2 trees behind wooden pole, climb jagged steep rock. Get established on the rock and then move up and clip first bolt. go around bulge keeping the bolt to the climbers left.(easy). Come back left above the bolt and gain a small sloping ledge and clip 2nd bolt. Climb arete to more bolts and a large sloping ledge at 25' up. Go slightly left to next bolt(extend draw). Work back right to arete. climb left side of arete to another stance. Clip, continue lying arête on the left side. On a large stance clip bolt on RIGHT side of arete and head up thru dihedral to the RIGHT with off width crack. Stem, off-width or face climb to top (3 more bolts). Finish by moving up 10' from bolt (easy) and slightly RIGHT to anchors. The anchors are positioned on a nearly horizontal section of the alpine ledge.

Climb crack on gear 1" to 4" through roof to old cold shuts (don't stop here). Then continue about 10 more feet to new stainless anchors.

These are 2 link ups.   Said And Done:   Do the first half of Easier Done then Said and finish on Easier Said than Done.   Done and Said:   You can also do "Done and Said", but not recommended. Start on Easier Said than Done and finish on Easier Done then Said, but take long slings for some of the bolts.

Climb slightly over hanging face to arête.   Lieback arete clipping 2-3 more bolts continue to a BIG stance. Resume liebacking up steep arête with hands on arête 2 or so feet right of the bolt line (don't go left chossy, bad fall potential and difficult to clip) to its end and another stance.   Move left over awkward pinches and oddly angling feet for a few more bolts. A sling is helpful on last bolt. climb right at last bolt up blind lieback flake to anchors.

climb up large pinnacle type boulder, normally has bird crap on it. Gain large slanting crack that goes up and right to Power and the Glory anchors.

42: The answer to the Ultimate Question of Life, the Universe, and Everything and my friend's 42nd birthday on the day we put up the route.Clip first bolt and gain stemming stance.Move lightly left to good side pull then up to jug. Move right to clip.Then move up right to next bolt and again a clipping jug. Traverse up and left on steep terrain using small crimps and under cling to (you guessed it) clipping jug under bolt in the roof.Clip, make big move up and slightly left to a blunt point, match, and pull roof on good holds.Continue up steep inside corner. It gets chossy up high if you go too far left.Variation:Direct Start from stem stance continue straight up dihedral (ignoring temptation to go left) 2 or 3 more delicate stem moves (10d) to second bolt staying in corner.

This climb starts 125' up the cliff on a large ledge.   You get there by first climbing Easier Done than Said to anchor.   From this anchor walk straight right (3rd class) behind pine tree.   Go beyond Midas Touch and clip first low bolt on Banshee.   Move right again 5-7' to good crimps. Move up and slightly left to big pocket(jug). Prepare for exciting crux and head point.   From there following remaining bolts over steeper terrain to bolted anchor shared with Midas Touch. Stay close to the bolt line especially at the top (There may be some remaining loose blocks).

Start just right of "42". Climb crack to chimney. Pull out of chimney (quite awkward if your hand jamming is a bit rusty) onto slopey ledges with some bolts (to reduce rope drag either skip the bolt above the chimney [5.5R/X] or back clean). Then to another bolt and yet another bolt in the first roof and clip with 20cm draw. Pull first roof (clip with 60cm sling because there is a sharp corner that you do not want near your rope) and then a big move to slopey lip of second roof. Traverse right clipping 2 more bolts (recommend using a 60cm sling and then a draw) toward anchors. Mantle to top. Simple.

Start on vertical wall.   Move up on to ledge and clip high 2nd bolt.   Continue up steep wall clipping 2 more bolts.   Move left under terrible small crimps at last bolt.   Power up slightly left to top of cliff. 

  You can also optionally continue on What's ur Safe Word

Pitch 1. Climb initial 10' slab to steeper corners. Lie back over-hanging corner and mantle up onto a stance and next high bolt. Continue up shallow bowl (stemming/crux). Then cruise to anchors.

 Optional Pitch 2 (not recommended). A 110' trad pitch on moderate 5th class climbing above ending at trees. Find your own way up! A 2 rope rap or walk off south gets you back down.

This route starts at an inside corner left of Crap Crack. Climb easy 4th class up to first bolt. Continue stemming up corner, and cracks to roof. Jam out roof and pull through V notch. Move up to steep slab with pinches. From here pull over large bulge (can bypass left in short crack - boo!) to stance. Finish on thin slab to anchors, passing directly over to slight right of the last  bolt. Lastly, mantle on the sloped ledge just right and above the anchors. Bend down to clip.

Start just right of Psycho Thriller at large crack/dihedral.   Move up right on lie back corners(crux). Then back left into crack. Follow crack and corners to large stance almost at the top. Climb left over bulge clipping last 2 bolts to anchors. FYI - Anchors are near Psycho Thriller anchors.

Stick clip the first bolt. Follow the arete up to the first and second bolt, then traverse right up the slightly concerning flake feature and clip the fourth bolt from the only true jugs on the whole route. Next execute a crux on vertical terrain using very thin and spaced out holds leading into a fantastic roof/bulge feature on excellent rock. Pull through here and then follow the arete past two more bolts and a couple heartbreaker moves before the anchor. Stop at this anchor below the lip of the cliff, you may see another slightly higher but it is off route. 

On right (south) side of alpine wall starting from the ground on black rock   are 2 parallel routes. Of the 2 routes this route is on the climbers right.   (You walk under the rock fall fence and up a small slope to start)

 Start at crack below 1st high bolt. Tending left and stemming corner on good holds gets you to the first bolt.   Move up to large slanting ledge with great feet to clip second bolt that is just out of view over head.   Continue moving over ledges and bulges.   Finish at bolted anchor.

This climb starts 125' up the cliff on a large ledge.   You get there by first climbing Easier Done than Said or Black Crack.   Starting from anchors on ledge climb steep face 8' right of anchor and directly behind pine tree.   Follow bolts tending right, up to bolted anchors shared with Banshee

180' tall buttress at the 2.5 mile post on the trail. Enjoy a nice 2 pitch climb starting on "Easier Done than Said(125')" and then finish on "Banshee(60')" or "Midas Touch(60')" 

Description

Protection

Routes in 2.5 Alpine Wall (aka tall wall)