Pumpy steep climbing on sharp pockets and edges. Stick clip the first bolt for safety.

Glacial Recession

Straight Flush

Glacial Obsession

Super Knat

Magic Helmet

Green Hornet

Yellow Jacket

The Wasp

Tillite Delight

Radidudical

A short, fun climb on

Mineral Fork Tillite

that uses pockets and positive edges to reach and then surmount the large, obvious, rounded cobble two-thirds of the way up. The rock is sharp and gets better the higher you go.

After getting past the cobble trend left on small edges to the anchor.

Fun little crack, if a bit loose in places. The crux is probably turning the roof near the top. But there are good holds everywhere, so it's not too bad. After turning the roof, clip the last bolt on Magic Helmet (the bolted 5.10 to the right) and finish on Magic Helmet's anchors.

Fun, balancy climbing on glacially-deposited

Mineral Fork Tillite

. Start just to the left of a left-facing corner and head up and slightly left. Use a couple of pockets and good edges, along with an undercling or two.

Some fun movement getting past the second and third bolts that requires committing yourself a bit farther left and away from some comforting holds than your mind would like.

The lower 2/3 (the white area) is really dirty, there are seams and cracks throughout, and many of the places you want to grab feel like the rock is in a socket; dubious rock. Someone should go over it with a pressure washer or something (condition as of Aug. 2006).

If that wasn't enough, the overhang eats rope; the rope will almost always catch in the cracks on the edge. You will spend more time dealing with rope-drag on lead than you will climbing.

...and is the misspelling of "Gnat" intentional?

The second star is for turning the roof which is pretty neat. The rest of the climb is pretty mellow. Crux is probably the reach to a hole above the lip of the roof. The reach is a bit farther than you would like. But you can clip the bolt from below the roof.

The whole thing is pretty much overhang-climbing. The lower, white rock is not as messy as

Super Knat

, but be careful.

The rope will drag over the last overhang, so either use webbing, or self-rappel off.

The chains are on a ledge you could walk up to if you want to top-rope it. This also means that the rope will drag there, so be careful. My first impression was that you could almost get to the ground from all the bolts, but you can't; it's not nearly that close.

There is no real significant ledge near the top like I first thought. The route is slightly over-hung (not near as much as its neighbors), but there's nothing that looks like it would eat your rope.

Follow two bolts up to the roof. Find the jugs at the lip and clip the bolt above the lip. The next move is the crux: a deadpoint lunge to a big jug. Once you pull the move, get your feet up and find a key horizontal flake/knob for your left hand to steady yourself, clip the bolt, and keep climbing on moderate terrain past one more bolt to the top.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Wasp