Colter's Spire, as the obvious spire in the middle of the massif,  is not as high of quality rock as Colter's Rib. However, some of the climbing is very good and the summit is amazing. Pitch one climbs a corner to the arete with bolts and gear at 5.7. Pitch two continues on both sides of the arete at 5.7. Pitch three climbs left of the arete overtaking a couple of roofs on big holds, then comes back right 5.8. Pitch 4 has some loose rock, hence the name of the route. If you are adept in the Tetons, you will recognize this type of climb. Ends on a lofty summit.

The Gauntlet

Colter's Rib

False Start

Back Pain

Forever

This is  a bad route that should not be attempted unless you like loose rock and fractured climbing. We note it because it has been climbed.

Colters Rib is a continuous line of fun rock climbing on low angle but very high quality stone. Foreshortening makes this not look like a big endeavor, but don't be fooled: you will likely spend 2.5-3 hours just rappelling the route. It’s a big day.

The route ascends 1400 feet of Madison limestone and is protected, mostly, by bolts. The F.A. was done without cams, but you might want a set from .4 to 3 friend. Also, a couple long slings and ten quickdraws are necessary. Obviously you need more draws if you intend to link pitches, which is easy to do. All protection is stainless steel and should last a very long time in this environment. The anchors, all half inch 5-piece bolts, are set up in French Style and do not need equalization. The entire route can be climbed and rappelled with a 70 meter rope, but pay attention to the ends.

The name is tied to the interesting history of the area. In the winter of 1807-8, John Colter trekked south from near Billings, passing below the route and into Clarks Fork Canyon. As far as we can tell, this made him the first member of the white tribe to enter Wyoming. His trek took him south into the Wind River Valley, over Togwotee Pass and thus past the Tetons, and into Idaho, before turning north and passing back out of Yellowstone just north of this massive. Again, in winter, and with a 35 pound pack in dangerous territory. It could be compared to the great treks to the poles in bravery and endurance. Because he likely camped below the massif, we named this route and the associated spire after him. For more on Colter I recommend Wyoming: A History of the American West.

IMPORTANT: The route is anchored so that it can be descended on a 70 meter rope (Not a 68 meter rope!). However, many of those rappels will go right to the end of your rope on an open face. Always tie knots. All bolts are stainless steel and should last at least half a century. Experienced parties should take a crescent wrench to possibly tighten up some anchors as stainless can loosen up over time (don't over tighten).

Find the start in a gulley roughly 10 meters left of the prominent (left) white streak. The route passes over a small roof about 25 feet from the ground.

P1 = Climb  over the right side of a small roof and continue past 6 bolts for about 30 meters.

P2 = Crux. Just above the belay tackle a headwall clipping a coulple bolts for protection. The route then moves onto a slab and gets substantially easier. 5.10c, 30m

p3=This is a 40 meter pitch with a rappel anchor part way. Its easiest when ascending to just clip that anchor and move on to the ledge above. There is a little weak rock near the top of the pitch. 5.8, 40m

p4= Pass two roofs on the slab. Excellent stone. 5.10a, 6bolts, 33m

p5= climb on good features for 30m past 6 bolts. 5.7

p6= easier ground. 5.6, 33 m, 4 bolts

p7= follow a distinct dihedral for much of the pitch. gear placements if yo need them can be found. 7 bolts in 33m

p8= easy for the most part. Only 3 bolts, 33m

p9= The runnel Pitch. Climb the runnels like cracks. They take cams.  Amazing rock. 5.9, 6 bolts, and 33m

p10=Very easy except one move. 5.8, 20m, 3 bolts

p11= climb up and slightly left to a tree. Easily linked with p12. 5.5, 4 bolts, 20 m

p12= continue up and right on the slab to an anchor just below the trees. 5.7, 4 bolts, 20 meters.

If needed, there is a good bivy site about 100 feet from the toip of the 5th class climbing.

Descend by rappelling the route. Some of the rappels use all of a 70 meter rope so tie knots in your ends. Don't forget about the added anchor for a single rope users on pitch 3.

The first pitch of what we thought would be the start to "Forever" but the rock above was not good enough. However, this is worthy if you don't want to get off the ground.

Named for our friend and comrade Bobby Model who was killed  in a freak "traffic" accident in Africa. The route ascends Buffalo Horn Spire on its north arete. The spire was first climbed (left of  M11) by a pair of Montanans  using only a few bolts and in a very bold manner. M11 is an excellent rock climb and big adventure. For the most part it has excellent rock, though rockfall from the ledges is possible and, of course, anything this long will have a loose block here and there. All anchors are set up so they do not need webbing. All parties should take a wrench with them to tighten any bolts that have loosened with time. If you need to bivy the best spot is in the notch at pitch 14.

pitch 1 = Find the start next to a couple of trees near where the fence meets the wall. Climb up and right for 20 meters passing 6 bolts to a good ledge. 5.9

pitch 2 = Move up and left onto steeper ground then over a bulge to a stance belay. 6 bolts, 5.10a

pitch 3 = Hit the crux right above the belay (5.10b) then move up and right along a dihedral, then over the dihedral and up a clean face to a good ledge. 25 meters long with 9 bolts

pitch 4 = Climb  up broken corners pretty much straight up to a ledge. 7 bolts and 5.7

pitch 5 = Climb very clean rock for 30 meters to a sloping alcove. 7 bolts

pitch 6 = Climb up and right to a dihedral, move left to a smaller ledge. 7 bolts and 25 meters

pitch 7 = Go up and left passing a bulge on its left, then climb very smooth rock and traverse back right and down a few feet to a belay at a tree. 5.10d, 30 meters, 11 bolts

pitch 8 = Climb a clean face to nubbins on the right at 5.10c for 30 meters. 9 bolts

pitch 9 = The crux. Difficult to flash. Climb up and right along a corner, then pull over the bulge and reach a steep headwall. Climb this  and then pass onto the slab above on the right side of the bulge to a nice ledge with a tree. This can be done as 5.10-C0 but its reachy... an extender quickdraw is useful. To free it is 5.11c and you need 14 quickdraws. 33 meters.

pitch 10 = Climb a clean face straight up to a large ledge for 33 meters. 9 bolts

pitch 11 = Climb up and right, passing a shrubbery with a move that seems it might be slightly harder than 5.8, then between  some trees to an alcove. 34 meters and 7 bolts

pitch 12 = Climb up and into the obvious runnel. It gets easier as you get higher. 5.10d, 30 meters, and has 10 bolts.

pitch 13 = Go up over a couple bulges then trend left to the summit of  the lower slabs. Its 5.8 and has 5 bolts where you need them. 27 meters

pitch 14 = Carefully downclimb into the notch, about 15 feet of 5.3, then hike up past a few trees for 50-60 feet.

pitch 15 = Climb up and slightly left then trend right on 5.9 climbing for 27 meters. 8 bolts.

pitch 16 = Climb up and slightly right on very clean rock with a 5.10b crux. There is a ledge with a nasty yucca to grab your rope. 27 meters and 7 bolts

pitch 17 = Climb up and right over a series of bulges to a good ledge with 7 bolts for 25 meters. Its 5.10c.

pitch 18 = Again up and a little more right on slightly easier ground  for 25 meters to a good ledge. 6 bolts at 5.8

pitch 19 = Climb up and onto the arete then trend back left into a large alcove. 5.6, 25 meters, and 4 bolts

pitch 20 = follow the arete for 25 meters to a small stance where it steepens. This is 5.5 and has only 4 bolts. If you bring enough quickdraws you can link this pitch with the next.

pitch 21 = Climb up the broken crack then follow the arete, using both sides, for 34 meters to a hanging stance just below a ledge. Any further and you could not have rappelled it with a single 70meter rope.

pitch 22 = Climb some broken ground then trend left onto a bulge to a stance just a few feet below the summit. Its 25 meters and has 4 bolts at 5.7.

Rappel the route on a single 70 meter rope (not a 68 meter rope). Be careful with those ends as some of the pitches max out the 70 meter rope. The rappels take quite a while.

"Forever" is a hybrid route that requires rock climbing and route finding like you might have in the alpine, but above the prairie and not in the high mountains. The thing I would liken it to is the regular route on Shiprock, but with much better rock quality and far more permanent protection.

The route ascends 2,500 feet of mostly excellent rock that is broken into 4 different sections by steep hiking. This route is bolted in European-alpine style, so there are bolts at the cruxes and a few per pitch, but you may want some gear as well. The first ascent was done without cams, but we recommend a single rack of cams from .4 to 3 Friend. All protections is stainless steel and the anchors are set up in French style and do not need webbing for equalization.

Like Colter's Spire, the name is tied to the history of the area. In the Fall of 1877 Chief Joseph led the Nez Perce through Yellowstone National Park while attempting to elude the U.S. Cavalry. They descended out of the park via Clark's Fork Canyon and camped below this massif of rock, then continued north towards Canada. They were caught and surrendered in early October of that year. Chief Joseph said, in his surrender speech to General Oliver Howard,  "I will fight no more forever." In memory of the chief, the tribe, and the history that is tied to this area, we gave it the name. Also, by the time you get to the 18th pitch you will probably say to yourself, "damn, this thing goes on forever."

IMPORTANT: The route is anchored so that it can be descended on a 70 meter rope (Not a 68 meter rope!). However, many of those rappels will go right to the end of your rope on an open face. Always tie knots. All bolts are stainless steel and should last at least half a century. Experienced parties should take a crescent wrench to possibly tighten up some anchors as stainless can loosen up over time (don't over tighten).

P1         Climb up and right then up a corner system to an anchor or a large tree. 5.7 35m

P2        Climb up a corner and left over a bulge to a stance. 5.7, 25m

P3        Go up and right on excellent rock to a stance. 5.7, 30m

P4        Climb over a couple of roofs to a ledge below the scree field. 5.8, 33m

P5        Walk up a blunt ridge of rock, trees, sage, and bighorns, to the broken buttress of rock    behind a set of large trees. Find the start  righ of a broken corner. 3rd class, 100 meters

P6        The "Sap Pitch." Go up and over a couple of bulges to a belay at a large tree. 5.5, 20m

P7        Go behind the tree. Climb up the slab behind a second tree to a belay in a scoop.5.6,  30m

P8        climb up to another scoop clipping bolts and placing the odd cam. 5.10a, 30M

P9        Climb up and right on smooth rock to a ledge below the trees. 5.10a, 25m

P10      Walk up to the wall and then right to the highest tree. 3rd class, 50M

P11      Climb up and left following a crack and then a ledge to the next ledge with an anchor      next to a small tree. 35m 5.9

P12      Climb up and right, over a roof and past runnels to a large ledge. 25M, .10a

P13      The "Runnel Pitch." Climb up right of a corner then follow runnels to a scoop. Do a slab   move to a ledge and anchor. 35M, 5.8 (easy if tall).

P14      The "Air Pitch." Climb up and left past a dead tree to an exposed arete. Follow it up and back right to a high anchor at the start of the trees. Use long slings on everything as          there will be drag. 50M, 5.5

P15      Move over a couple slabs and into the trees amid loose scree and dirt. Move up and        right to the highpoint of the trees. Belay the next pitch left of a buttress of rock next to a         dead tree. Its about 75 feet down and right of the highpoint in the alcove. 3rd class,  80meters

P16      The crux. Traverse up and right on questionable rock. Go over the bulge and do a             boulder problem and then follow the slab to a stance anchor. You can also clip it and          continue right to a small tree on a better ledge. These bolts can be clipped as an aid        ladder with an easy 5.10 move here and there or by standing in a sling. 5.12a or A0     (obl.5.10a) 20

P17      Traverse right on scree and ledges broken by rock slabs, passing a rappel anchor, to a      large    ledge on the arete with a good anchor (no rap rings). Use long slings for the few      bolts.   50M, 5.4

P18      Climb up a crack to a large hueco, then over a bulge and up a gully. Look 15 feet left to    your rappel anchor to be used in the descent. Continue up and right to a scree covered      ledge with some trees. There is an anchor high and right on the ledge. 50M. 5.9

P19/20 Go up and left past some high trees in a secluded alcove. Either add a pitch by     belaying at one of the trees or continue up a broken face to an anchor  on a rock face       below another tree. 32M, 5.4

P21      Climb to a cool summit with spectacular views. 15M, 5.5 Sign the register.

Descent:

To descend the route with only a 70 meter rope, use these variations from the climbing route.

The highest rappel variation is from a stance on the arete left of the midpoint of pitch 18. It drops you onto the ledge you traverse for pitch 17. The second highest rappel variation is from a stance midway across pitch 17. This one is 35 meters to the forest below. Walk down and find the anchor atop pitch 14. The third variation is rappelling from pitch 14 anchor straight down to a second anchor on the left side of a gully. Its about 50 feet below. From that anchor rappel hard left (south) to the anchor for the Runnel Pitch. IT is a rope stretcher so tie knots in the ends. Note that the next rappel takes you to an anchor 6 feet above the belay ledge... again, knots in your rope. Do that rappel to the top of Pitch 11. From this one it is another stretcher.... go down to the tree you began this section on and you will reach. If you go straight down you will be disappointed. One more thing to note is the very bottom rappel at pitch one also requires you to traverse right (reversing exactly how you climbed it.) Always watch and knot your ends and you will be fine.. Or purchase an 80M rope before this route.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Mouth