Fortunately Joe Cote is much more well known for his many other F.A.'s in NH! One can only imagine that 40 years ago the moss & lichen were not as thick.    START -  below the large, obvious "Herm. Flake"    P1 - Up the arch ( dirty) then step left and up the right side ( even dirtier) to the ledge with the big pine tree.     A "slip sliding away 5.4"  The rating is both "old school" and was established at a time when there might not have been as much moss on the rock. See also the warning about pine sap in Miss. Ramble.

Hermaphrodite Flake

Road Between Two Worlds

Road to Lhasa

Mississippi Ramble

Yak Between Worlds

Summer Breeze

Golden Potala

Slab of the Woods

One of the climbs done by Ross & Cathart on AUG 7 '73. The original line has much moss and lichen; the variation avoids this but is quite run out. The 5.4 is the original Paul Ross "Old School" rating. I'd give it 2 stars if climbed via the Variation.START: Below the obvious large flake with a huge pine tree growing on a ledge about 140 ft up. (see topo)P1 - (Original route, not recommended) Up the obvious flake (Var.), moss and all, and move left onto the main flake ( clean rock at last !) then up the nice crack to the tree. 140 - 150 ft, perhaps a slightly higher grade than the "old school" 5.4 classically given.At the tree, beware pine sap on the rock and tree which just LOVES to get on shoes and ropes!Variation - Clean rock, but run-out to the crack.  Start about half-way between Face Dances and Road to Lhasa, about 10-15 ft left of the "mossy start", where some clean rock nearly reaches the ground and where the fine crack in the flake now can be seen. Climb the face, with gear on the right at about 20 ft, then 30 ft further (5.4-5.5 R/X) to reach the clean crack. Up this to the tree.Descent - Rap from the huge pine tree with two ropes.

START: Look for the cleaned twin seams located about 25ft up the cliff (photo) half way between Yak Between Worlds and Road to Lhasa. A single bolt is right of the right-hand seam. These seams are about 15 ft right of the "upside-down" tree on Summer Breeze.P1 - Start just a foot or two right of the lichen-covered cracks of Summer Breeze and climb easily to the bolt. Figure out the crux sequence (somewhere between 5.9- and 10a; 9+ is nominal) and then continue on pleasant but much easier rock. [green 0.75, or red 1.0, Camalot in horizontal]. About 50-60 ft up reach a right-facing flake (green Alien or similar).From the flake either traverse upwards and right to the anchor at the top of P1 of Road to Lhasa (most common), ....or continue straight up, passing the right end of a small tree ledge (4"-5" diam. oak with rap slings) and on to the top of the slab.70-80 ft to anchor on "Road to Lhasa", 5.9- to 10.a ?

Lhasa, of course, is the capital of Tibet, and it would take Ed four years, until June of 1986, to get there. Perhaps the golden streak of rock just to the right of this climb was reminiscent of the golden roof of the Potala, the building which is seen in the spectacular cover photograph of Galen Rowell's book Mountains of the Middle Kingdom.(Published in 1983)This was one of the more difficult climbs to find, as in Ed's guidebook he mentions only a "birch tree" and very little info on the topography of the rock. It is definitely worth seeking out! START- The usual approach is from the Face Dances area. About 100 feet left of the belay for Face Dances. After the path along the base passes Herm. flake, it rises about 20-25 ft to the true "height-of-land" area. On your right is a flat-ish slab area. [Photo(s)]Since the real Road to Lhasa twists and turns, it seems reasonable the right-side variation is the route of first ascent, and is now so listed.Pitch 1 is a true gem! If only P2 could be equal, BUT there's no need to climb P2, AND you can always climb Var 1 P1 - Start on the flat-ish slab and then move left up a very short and shallow "corner" to reach the left end of the arching crack. [Var1] (Gear here, small TCU, then a 2nd, and better, piece can go in a few inches higher. Ed used only nuts.) Traverse right, passing an unbelievable hand hold (and gear placement, a med. cam, purple (0.5) Camalot) and make a thoughtful move to a flake ( hidden crack behind it)  Standing on the flake, move back left and then up moon-scoops to an anchor. 75 ft 5.7, (although a bit more difficult if you don't see the transition sequence)Var 1 - Instead of moving right after the first crack, climb up a bit and then step left. A few more moves left and then directly up to the anchor. There's a #2 (Gold) Camalot placement, but by then the difficulties are over.  75 ft, 5.7 with 5.4-5.5 R.P2 - Up the slab to the trees. 160 ft 5.3Descent - From P1 a "no brainer" the dbl bolt anchor is set for rapping or TR-ing; from the top of P2 there is no fixed anchor but one can rap with 2 ropes down to the P1 anchors, then 1 rope to the ground.Alternate Descent from the top to the "Left End" Area- If you have only a single rope, AND it's a 70 m rope, from the top of P2 walk 75-100 ft to climber's-LEFT to the rap station on the 6"-diameter pine tree* at the top of B-Day Brushings. Two single-rope-70M-raps to the ground. (* NOT the 18"-diameter pine at the top of "Pillars", the "Pillars" rap is a double rope rap.

START- at the shallow corner (licheny and mossy as of 2014) at the highest point of land. A lonely bolt resides about 25 ft up and just left of the top of the corner.The climb might gather more stars if the starting corner were cleaned.P1- Climb up the corner, step left at a stance and clip the bolt ( 30+ yr-old 1/4" replaced by 3/8" S.S. in 2014) Climb the face just left of the bolt (crux, 5.8) and establish a gear belay above, or combine with P2.P2- To the trees, or move right to a tree island with a 3-4" diameter oak and rap from there.Descent: Rap from the trees with 2 ropes to the ground, or move 30-40 ft to climber's right to a 4-5" diameter tree with a rap anchor. (Not easy to find, and when you do find it there's a tricky (read "dangerous if you slip") move down through some helmock tree(s). Rap from here 95 ft ( 29 m) to the dbl bolt anchors on "Road to Lhasa", then 85 ft to the ground.

This route is added more for its "landmark" inverted tree, than as a route, it is heavily lichened over. A couple of days of brushing might bring out a 1 or 2 star climb....but.... 

  START- Below a "spruce/juniper" tree that is (and has been, for at least 30 years) growing nearly UPSIDE DOWN from a ledge about 20-25 ft up. (Photo) 

    P1- Climb the mossy/licheny ledges and slabs to the tree island on the right with a 3-4" diameter oak.   

    P2- To the top.... with much brushing. 

  DESCENT- From the end of P1, rap from the 3-4" oak to the ground with 2 ropes, or with a single rope to the belay/rap station of "Road to Lhasa" (2 bolts) then to the ground.  From the end of P2 look for a rap tree on the right, either 2 ropes to the ground or a single 60m (but NOT a single 50m) to the "Road to Lhasa" belay/rap station.

P1 – START – Scramble up the first few moves of Road to Lhasa, but where this excellent Ed Webster trad route moves to the left to the arching flake, Golden Potala climbs directly up the golden rock past 3 bolts.  (crux between #2 and 3).  Reach the flake described in “Road to Lhasa” (optional 0.75, Green, Camalot placement in the crack) and move up on this for a few moves, clip the 4th bolt and climb up, reaching a 5th  bolt and then easily up left-ish to the common anchor/belay.  75 ft  5.8+ - 5.9, listed as a 5.9- for now.NOTEs: 1) The bolts were intentionally placed a bit right of the climbing to dissuade their use while climbing Road to Lhasa.  This is especially true of bolt #4.   2) The clip for bolt #2 is difficult, but without bolt #2 clipped, chances are any fall from the crux would result in hitting the very low-angled rock below.

Previous guidebooks have put this in the Height-of-Land section, but the route is actually LEFT of "Yak Between Worlds" (which starts at the actual highest point of the Height-of-Land.) 

  I've been as far as the base of the solution pockets to confirm the route, but climbing them looked to be quite awkward. The FA assigned "5.3" but take that with a grain of salt.    

  Approach- See approach to "Yak" and/or "Road to Lhasa".  

  P1- From the actual highest point of land, descend 20-30 feet (steep ground!) and traverse out left onto the (mossy) slab. Climb up to where the slab steepens and surmount the steep section on some large (4-5 inch) solution pockets. These are about mid-way between the corner of "Yak" and the flakes of "What's Up Yankee?". From there "continue on the slab above with no protection". 200 ft  5.3??

Some "old School" climbs from the mid-1970's through early 1980's which may need some cleaning for enjoyment. Road to Lhasa was cleaned (2014) and has some very nice, "non-slabby" moves. From the belay tree on Face Dances a path, close to the base of the slab, moves left. The climbs (as you move right-to-left from Face Dances) are: Hermaphrodite Flake (5.4), Mississippi Ramble (5.4) [both of which are now "rich" with moss and lichen] and its Variation START (5.5), Golden Potala (5.8+ - 5.9) and Road to Lhasa (5.7) start at the same place, then Summer Breeze (5.2), and finally Yak Between Worlds (5.8). Beyond "Yak" the slope drops off very steeply to the "Left Side". Webster included "What's Up Yankee (5.5)" in Height-of-Land climbs, but the cliff "breaks" so suddenly at "Yak" that this climb is probably more easily thought of as being a "Left Side" climb and I have put it in that Area.

Description

Protection

Routes in 2. Height of Land