Most definitely not a 5.11A, if you are a grade chaser this climb is for you! Nonetheless an enjoyable climb. Climb through the womb up high.

Adam Ant

Bullet the New Sky

Doug Reed Warmup

A Ketchum and Umbel Day

S.T.A.N.C.

Razor Sharp

Dial 911

Black Rider (aka Pocket Route)

Stolen Kisses

New World Order

Discombobulated

Dissonance

Confirmation

Sugar Bubbas

Bloodshot

Vulcan Block

Silent but Deadly

Legacy

Mississippi Learning

Rock Lobster

Stolen Kisses is the big chunky corner system just right of the classic sport climb, Legacy. There are a few different variations to start but most take the left most one. Handjams, laybacks, stems, and face climbing will allow you to easily top out this fun, well-protected route.

One of the NRG's best 5.12 aretes, with a fairly short crux compared to many other Endless routes of the grade.  Start in a sort of crack feature on the left side of the arete before doing a weird move up onto a small ledge (the original line started to the right; not many people do this start).  The crux involves a very crimpy and sequential right traverse to and around the corner of the arete.  After this, lots of 5.11 climbing to the anchor.

Shares the opening moves with New World Order. Negotiate the burly roof and move right to gain positive jugs in a horizontal. Make a series of large reaches between more amazingly positive horizontals. The rock is great, and the movement is fun. Not just a good warmup for Mr. Reed, but for anybody looking to climb the nearby routes.

Basically a direct version of Rock Lobster - this line has an independent start, joins the shallow right facing weakness of Rock Lobster until the ledge, and follows the face directly below the Stolen Kisses anchors.

Instead of traversing right to the bolt and continuing up Rock Lobster proper, follow a series of iron oxide features and thin holds on the clean face just right of the mid-upper portion of the Stolen Kisses corner system.

This is a fun route, probably best toproped after leading Stolen Kisses. It has been done on lead, but would be a very bold R/X ordeal for sure. A great way to pass the time waiting for the hordes to clear off of Legacy.

An intimidating climb inside an orange corner. It is easier than it looks though. The crux is a diagonal off-width traverse under the roof. This route doesn't get much traffic so you might first want to rap and clean it up from huge spiders.

Begin 10' left of Discombobulated on the left side of the blunt arete. A series of strenuous horizontal pulls is encountered right off the bat with good cams when needed. After the burly start get a good shake and aim for a shallow dihedral. Fun climbing thru this section. Once thru this, climb up and slightly left to a good stance. During these moves keep an eye out for a good piece of gear that'll be at your feet once you've gained this stance. At this stance you'll realize where the name of this route comes from. Gear behind this flake is simply decoration, if one was to fall above it your pro would rip this off sending a serious piece careening down to your belayer and conga line waiting to do the classic 11's. Instead follow the flake up and left to its end and locate a small pocket in white rock.  Here a yellow tcu works good. I also imagine a blue or yellow totem would work well......or you can do what Andrew Barry prob did in 1985 and punch it up and slightly right on flat horizontals to a good 1" placement. Then proceed up to the top of cliff.  Tree for anchor.  This route is amazing.

Dial 911 is one of the most sought-after 5.13's at the NRG, and deservedly so. This route is an absolute classic up some of the nicest sandstone I've ever seen. Start climbing up the easy slab for 25 feet to gain the start of the long series of crux moves up the perfect orange and black streaked face, culminating with a precision redpoint crux "cobra stab" into a letterbox.

A few more more 5.12a moves over a roof will get you to easy terrain and anchors.

This striking line travels through perfect yellow and brown rock and has a little bit of everything on it.  Slopey slab climbing leads to an aggressive dyno around a roof.  After a good shake bust out of an undercling and choose your method to reach the base of the final roof.  This section is thin and technical.

Shake out at the base of the roof, delaying the inevitable fall, and prepare to get mowed down by a typical NRG finish.  Expect slopey hand holds, a lack of footholds, no chalk to mark the holds and a healthy amount of grime.  Take the fall, curse the stone, and then rave about the cryptic movement once you figure it out.  This really is one of the coolest finishes around.

This route was initially called "Black Rider."  The current name is misleading.  Don't expect a lot of pockets on this thing.

One of the best of its grade at the NRG! Start either left (original) or right (more direct) of the arete; some campusing may be involved. The climbing on this route is quite sustained and even pumpy for a vertical route, and its individual moves may feel less tweaky and more straightforward than many other Endless Wall 5.12s. Although this climb starts on an arete, you stay left of the arete for most of the route, although some people step right to a really good rest about 2/3 the way up.

This climb looks like it is just a tall climb from the ground. However, when you get on this bad-boy you quickly find out that there is a heinous crux between the second and third bolt. Fortunately you have a sweet no-hands rest (if you can battle away the spiders) in a pod at an obvious spot above the 3rd bolt. Pumpy climbing continues above on undercling with long reaches between sloping edges with bad feet. Finally keep your head, fight the pump and work over the last bulge.

Dissonance was the first 5.13 established on the Endless Wall. It has high quality stone, and a few intriguing moves, but the overall route quality does not reach the precedent set by routes likes Dial 911, Quinsana, The Racist or Black Rider. This route has got to be one of the reachiest routes at the New River Gorge, as many shorter climbers are rendered helpless at the mega undercling crux.

Begin by climbing through a roof, or simply reach past the roof with your feet on the ground if you are tall. Pulling the initial roof can be a bit challenging, but once established on the vertical face, the intensity eases for a few bolts. Expect 5.11+ climbing featuring long lock offs and technical footwork from the second to the sixth bolt. Bear down on some crimps, make some deep lock offs, and high step your way through the pre-crux between the sixth and seventh. Rest up a bit at the seventh, then launch into the engaging reachy crux. If you're six feet tall the crux is no big deal, but if you're short the crux will give you fits and likely send you packing for the RRG. Cool pocketed features and slopers guide you to the anchor.

A good strategy for attacking this route is to lower off of New World Order, hang draws and scope out the crux. It can be very difficult to spot hand holds in the crux region since the stone is pure white.

This route has a reputation for being stout for the grade.  This route is an Endless Wall classic, with the requisite long reaches between small holds.

Climb the slabby blunt arête through some technical moves then out to the left face. Continue over a small bulge then step back right around the arête up to a spectacular, exciting finish.  Devious moves, old bolts, lichened rock, and probably no chalk on the holds, this is what NRG adventure sport climbing is all about!

A worthy line that does not see enough ascents as its overshadowed by its classic neighbor, Black Rider. Despite contrary belief, you do not need to be intoxicated with bloodshot eyes to lack the judgement to get on this. Although the face is seemingly lichen-filled and dull, the line is surprisingly clean. What the climb lacks in glimmer and shine it makes up for in yee-haw and yippee-ki-yay. The climbing features powerful and technical movement that is probably easier if you’re taller, but also doable for the shorter powerhouse climber.

Share the same start as Black Rider, but trend left to move under the first bolt. The difficulties begin immediately from the first to second bolt, which require either a massive static reach or a precise dynamic power lunge. Squirm or smear your way up to a no-hands rest under the small roof. Clip the third bolt from a left-hand undercling, and then immediately enter the first crux involving power crimping getting over the small roof. After this sequence, clip the fourth bolt, and enjoy easier climbing to an interesting, mediocre rest at the fifth bolt. After the rest, the second crux there ensues with very techy, powerful, precise movement on rad pinches, pockets, and slots. This crux is highlight of the route, but also can be pretty show stopper, until you unlock the betas. Clip the sixth bolt and enjoy sustained, pumpy 5.11+ to the anchors. At the last bolt your efforts are rewarded with a surprise (not anymore if you’re reading this) iron-band hueco imported for your pleasure from the RRG.

This wall is sunny in the morning and shady in the afternoon.

A 4-star climb from the first bolt on.

Stick clip the first bolt and pull on your rope past the blank roof up to good starting holds near the first bolt. Trend up and right past some long reaches, small holds, and one slightly dynamic pop move to a slot. There are a few rest stances before the roof.

A nice, sideways, mini-dyno above the roof leads to a tricky corner that requires good body positioning. Another good stance provides a rest before the last thin face sequence.

Climb past the last 2 bolts on easy, but probably dirty rock to the final sequence: run-out, dirty, sloping fat rolls make for an exciting finish. There is a sequence through the last 10 feet that is not too hard, but the onsight attempt will make you pucker.

Silent but Deadly is a long varied route on good rock.  The first few bolts of reachy slab climbing lead to a pair of sit down ledges.  Immediately after the rest a committing move takes you in to slightly overhung 5.11 climbing.

Relax on a mother bucket at the base of the bulge and prepare to blitz the 6 move V6ish boulder problem crux.  The intro crux moves are steep and very powerful, but the final slab move of the sequence is likely to be the one that throws you for a loop.  Stick this extremely balancy move and then sketch your way to the top on dirty holds.

This wall gets shade around 2:00 p.m.

Beautiful route!  Lots of big reaches to good holds down low leads to a small roof.  pull the roof and begin the right arching crack line.  keep trending right on crimps and up to next roof.  here you have an option to continue right and finish straight up to make the route 11a, or trend left on a different line of bolts for the 11d finish.  No distiguishable crux on this route with good rests at each bolt.

Semi-technical arete climbing with some fun bumps and nice positive holds. More or less vertical the whole way. Crux comes around the second bolt.

Another classic Begoon face route, Rock Lobster snakes up the face left of Bullet. Starting in the same right-facing corner as Bullet, head left and up via seams and flakes, placing any gear you can find. At a horizontal seam, tiptoe right to a bolt. From the bolt follow edges, flakes and slots up and then back left to a good stance beneath a hand-size mail slot. Stuff a good cam in this slot, leaving room for your fingers and then puzzle out the powerful sequence and run to the anchors

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Location

Protection

Routes in J) Snake Buttress