After 25 years of climbing with over 100 Fas this was my first sport route.The route stays dry in rain.

Five Fun

Kacce's Route

Next Corner

Sling Blade

Yeller' Feller'

Scary Jerry

Classic Corner

Moral Dilemma

Medicine Man

unnamed

Soulshine

The Nose

Honeycomb

Green Elbow

There are two starts for this route...both are about 10a.   1) Climb an obvious V shaped open chimney for 20' then move right to the base of the big dihedral. 

  2) Climb jugs on a short slightly overhanging wall directly below the dihedral then pull up onto a short slab split by a finger crack. 

  Climb the obvious crack/dihedral for 80' to the ledge below a 20' roof. 

  We have made it 3/4 of the way up the roof but haven't been back to finish it. Soft rock with less than great pro! 

  We left a #11 Hex as a rap anchor but my guess is that the cord is now part of some nest.

A great dihedral with fun moves and great gear

Pull a burly move to obtain the crack then work the crack to the top

P1. Start in an obvious, short dihedral. Climb about 15' until you can traverse left under a large loose looking block/roof. Traverse to the end of the roof, then go up past a 4' band of very smooth rock past two fixed pins (crux). Climb up and left and belay in a short right facing corner.   P2. Climb up left out around the corner and then straight up and slightly right on plates and chicken heads to a classic belay on a giant horn/saddle right smack on the arete (awesome view).   P3. Climb chicken heads with sparse pro to the rim and a large tree.

This is a great new pitch that leads up very overhanging rock and directly to the Green Elbow belay ledge.  The upper portion is very reminiscent of RRG style pocket pullin'. 

  P-1  Climb up discontinuous crack/corner features past a couple of cams placements and to the bolt line.  Follow 5 bolts to the ledge and a 2 bolt anchor.   

Stick clip,Boulder pad, good spot or something is recommended for first bolt

A short left facing corner   

  Second pitch is not worth frying your nerves but if you do there is a new sling at the top on a large pine tree straight up from the exit of the crack (added 10-14-17)

Crux starts at bolt 3 and lets up at the anchor. 

Small finger crack through to two small roofs with good feet and good protection

A boulder problem to clip the first bolt leads to big moves on great rock

A good quick climb to the top with several short pitches.  

  P1: Locate a short 50' right facing corner at the base of the prow of the cliff line. Take the corner up to a tree and then move left on some face moves to gain the ledge with a good pine tree for a belay.   P2: Move on the ledge about 80' to find a thin left facing crack. Make your way through some tough thin fingers on small gear to gain a wider flake above. Move left on good face holds to top of ledge.   P:3 Move left to a wide chimney and climb up and through on fun holds to the top of ledge    P:4 No fun bushy corner that leads to the top rim. Take off left from the belay position atop the ledge and work through the trees and grass to a dirty corner.

This is a fantastically overhanging pocket fest that is well worth climbing if you've got the guns.  Unfortunately, the start has a large blank roof and requires use of the flimsy tree or possibly a trolley-start - but it's well worth the trouble. 

  P-1 Climb the flimsy tree to the first bolt just above the roof.  From here, stand high and gain a horizontal (#2 or #3 camelot).  Climb steep rock past another cam placement to a bolt and a move onto a ledge.  A good knee bar rest or lie down rest can be had here.  Once ready, fire up the overhanging wall on amazing pockets past bolts to the 2 bolt chain anchor lower off (fixed with biners).

The name comes from the color that our elbows had turned after chicken-winging up the first pitch.  This is a fun 2 pitch route that requires a wide range of techinque. 

  Locate the overhanging wideish crack/slot. 

  P-1 Climb the overhanging feature past some chicken wingin' and plenty of face holds to a ledge up and right. Belay on 2 bolts.  Note: There is a newer mixed line that comes straight up to here for which these anchor bolts were recently placed by the main FA party of both routes. 

  P-2 Climb past 2 bolts up and right to the chimney/groove (out of sight from the ground).  Cool OW and chimney tecnique gets you to the top of this feature. 

  Rap from tree on top to ground.  

The Crack House is a single-pitch cragging area. It's a canyon with two separate walls, the west-facing wall being the steeper and taller of the two, with about 8-10 routes, trad or mixed. The east side has seen the most development, with more than 20 routes, seven of them being sport routes. Like most of the areas at the BSF the Crack House routes stay dry.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Crack House