This is an excellent long and exposed ridge traverse with spectacular views.

Gain the first summit by scrambling up its NE ridge, the odd Class 4 moves here and there. Follow the main horizontal ridge, keep right at the occasional impasse - the views across to Trapezoid's monolithic Northeast Wall are awe-inspiring. The ridge ends at a some towers and a notch. Descend down into the gap and then up a Class 3 face to the summit plateau.

North Ridge

Don't Be a Square

North Slab

Man on the Flying Trapezoid

It's a Trap!...ezoid

A short, clean and fun route to the summit - with marvellous vistas over the left edge.

Start at the toe of the slab, left of the North Gully. Pitch 1 has the crux, a jam crack finishing at the belay ledge. Stay as close to the edge as feasible. Pitch 3 is a little steeper, and looser, one more pitch will see you on the summit.

Climbs the major left-facing corner system on the riight side of Geometry Wall

P1 - Climb the long series of left-facing corners. Bolt Anchor. (5.10- 45m)

P2 - Traverse the ledge, belay at the base of a low angle corner (4th class 20m)

P3 - Climb the corner to the ridge (Easy 5th 25m)

Descend the North Ridge

Climbs the continuous crack/double crack system through the dead-vertical, sometimes overhanging Geometry Wall

P1 - Climb the left-facing corner to gain the top of the detached pillar feature. bolt anchor. (5.10- 35m) (Climbing the front or the right side of the pillar may be a better start!)

P2 - Climb the crack, clipping a few bolts and skirting left when the crack peters out for a bit. Bolt anchor. (5.10+ 35m)

P3 - Climb the crack still. Bolt anchor. (5.11- 35m)

P4 - Keep climbing the crack. Clip a few bolts through the wild stemming crux, then do the wicked mantle onto the only ledge on the whole wall. Gear anchor. (5.12- 35m)

P5 - You're almost done climbing the crack. Pull the final overhang to the summit. This one is easier. Gear anchor. (5.9 25m)

Descend the obvious north ridge, climber's right.

P1 - Climb the series of layback corners through great rock. Bolt Anchor. (5.9 30m)

P2 - Climb the steep hand crack corner. Gear anchor. (5.10 20m)

P3 - Climb the low angle corner to the ridge. Gear anchor. (easy 5th 20m)

Descend climber's right down the North Ridge

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Trapezoid Peak