Instead of bending bits, we beat bushes. Climb the left route on the southern prow of the Emerald. The crux comes at the first bolt and then the climbing gets easier as you climb higher. This is a good, short warm-up for the area.

Bush Beater

Bit Bender

Larkspur Widow

Golden Carabiner Award

Forensic Closure

This climb reminds me of the Voo's Captain Nemo. Although this roof is shorter, it's much harder. Also, don't blow a bad RP while you're drilling or you'll bend bits.

Pitch 1, 5.11d.

Start up an easy flake leading to a short lieback ending in a mantel. The crux begins after the mantel. Climb up a flared crack (poor gear), clip the bolt, and traverse right out of the roof (crux). The traverse has terrible feet, tricky sequences, gear that is tenuous to place, and hands that are less than ideal. After the burly traverse, continue up through a crystal pocketed crack to a small ledge before a widening crack. Belay here.

Pitch 2, 5.7.

Fire up the widening crack (#4) to a ledge. This offwidth section can be made easier by using good face holds. From the ledge, climb up another wide crack where some offwidth technique is required. Belay off gear, and then rappel via Emerald Isle's anchors.

Be aware that the Larkspur Widow is more lethal than the Black Widow, has long legs, and likes to nest in the cracks of this route....

Climb the short, angling crack directly left of Emerald Isle. When the crack diverges at the top, veer left and use Forensics Closure's anchor to descend.

Locate an Eldorado-like, right-facing flake on the right margin of the main part of the tower, and climb up to and up that, the crux, to a belay station in one or two pitches. The next pitch goes around the arete and up to a belay station on the upper fin.

Start off a large boulder on the southern prow of the Emerald, and traverse left onto a great face with sharp crimps. Fire up the sustained face with a crux at the 3rd bolt. Although short, it packs some punch and has enjoyable climbing. This is a good warm-up.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Emerald Crest Jewel of Tzillastan