This may soon have a 3 bolt direct start to the ledge which access several climbs on the wall. The ledge can also be accessed by scrambling to a ledge 30 feet up the face via the north side of a large pine tree. From the ledge, climb delicate, sustained, sequential pebble pinching which eases after 4 bolts. Then motor up easier climbing to the top.

137 Cesium Reindeer

CCCP Design Flaws

Russian Cover Up

Glow in the Dark

Pet Cementary

Hold My Graphite

Reactor #4

Roof Top Liquidators

Dive In, The Water Is Safe

Nuclear Disaster

Everyone Has Cancer

Alpha, Beta, Gamma

Similar to an Eldo climb, this route offers some enjoyable climbing. Begin on a ledge ~30 feet up the wall which easily scrambled via the north side of a large pine tree, and climb the layback crack right of the more prominent crack of

Alpha, Beta, Gamma

. Once past the layback section, follow cracks to the top of

137 Cesium Reindeer's

anchors.

Scramble up to a ledge and to the first bolt. Face climbing leads to a thought provoking face section with great holds. Once past the initial face, easier climbing leads to a final, thin arete crux near the top. This is a full value pitch. Be sure to watch the ends of your rope with a 60m rope as you lower as there are some ledges one could get lowered off.

Pitch 1:

begin on the left side of the southern arete, and climb the arete on featured rock to a small ledge. Then fire up the crux headwall via chickenheads and underclings to another small ledge. Moderate climbing then leads to a good stance with an anchor,

12 bolts, 5.8-, 95 feet.

Pitch 2:

continue past the anchor on easy terrain to a steep short, headwall finish,

3 bolts, 5.7, 40 feet.

It requires two rappels to rappel down the route or you can do a single rope rappel to the west with a single 60m. Tie knots, and watch the ends of the rope.

In my opinion, since the top of pitch 2 has a horrible stance, it's best to lead and combine the first two pitches and then lower to the top of pitch 1. Then have the follower climb both pitches, clean the top of pitch two, and lower back to the top of pitch 1. Once the the anchor is cleaned, then both climbers can rappel from the top of pitch 1 to the base of the route.

This climb was easier before some key footholds broke off and is the furthest left bolted line at the crag. Either scramble up the gully to the first bolt for

Reactor #4

or climb directly to the first bolt for

Reactor #4

and then traverse on the face to the second bolt. The crux involves some delicate face moves at the third bolt. The climbing then eases until a thought engaging finish.

Begin on the right side of the south arete where the crux is the very first few moves. The rest of the climbing on the route is in 5.7-5.8 range. Climb featured rock for 45 feet to a small ledge. Then climb a fun dihedral to another ledge. An interesting arete for the last 3 bolts leads to the anchor. This has three distinct sections. It is exposed and fun!

Climb straight up to the high first bolt or scramble up the gully on the left to reach the bolt. Thin pebble pinching climbing leads to a crux at the 3rd bolt. More pebble pinching fun then leads to the top where the climbing progressively gets easier.

Climb up low angled terrain to reach the clean dihedral. The start of the dihedral has some precarious looking blocks in the crack, but they are surprisingly solid. A short thin fingers sections leads to a stance where an easier crack leads to the top. Before reaching the top, veer left and use

Reactor #4's

anchors to descend.

Begin on the south prow of Chernobyl, and climb the hand crack just right of

Hold My Graphite

which is the furthest right bolted line at the crag. The crux is the first 20 feet as you climb through a small roof with a hand crack. Easier but wide crack climbing then leads to a unique red rock dihedral which is harder than it looks. Once past the red dihedral, climb featured rock (plenty of pro) to the top of the formation. Either build a belay at the top of the formation or use the top of

Glow in the Dark's

second pitch anchors to descend (a 100 foot rappel to the west).

Scramble up the gully left of

Pet Cementary

for 15 feet and begin just left of

Pet Cementary

up an angling crack system. The crux is the first move, and you don't want to slip as you'll fall down the rocky gully. Unfortunately, the gear is a little tricky for the opening move, but it's there. Once past the opening, move follow the angling crack system right and then straight up to a pine tree. Locate and follow another angling crack right to the anchor for

Pet Cementary

. Like a nuclear disaster, the climbing isn't that great.

It's too bad the engaging climbing isn't longer or this would be a decent climb. Start on a ledge ~30 feet up the wall which easily scrambled via the north side of a large pine tree. Begin with a hand traverse right (across the start of

137 Cesium Reindeer

) to a small ledge. Then fire up an OW crack (crux) to easier terrain. Follow sporadic cracks to the top of

CCCP Design Flaws

or

Glow in the Dark's

anchors. Use those anchors to descend.

Scramble up easy terrain to a ledge with some nasty bushes. Climb the nice hand crack with features outside the crack for feet to the top of the cliff. The last 20 feet gets easier. Too bad the crack isn't longer.

Description

Protection

Routes in Chernobyl