Climb the shallow dihedral 5 feet left of Sin-Wave with technical stemming. Up, slightly left, then back right and over a bulge (crux), then left and up an easier thin crack to the top.  

  Escaping leftwards out of the dihedral and up is a bit easier.

Total Abstinence

Route 7

Direct Start to Bee Sting

Route 20

Bee Sting

4-Star Arete

Route 17

Tetherball

Sinewave (aka S Crack)

Berserker

Crucifriction

Jet Stream

God Route (aka Mike's Route)

High Roof Left

Route 10

Unnamed

Route 16

Songs of Love

High Roof Right

Rattlesnake Crack (aka Sidewinder)

Direct Start to Route 10

Gulf Stream

Momentum

Route 19

Climb the arete/cracks right of route #10.

Start on blocks just to the left of Tetherball and climb a short slab and make a tricky step right.  Above, follow the crack angling to the left (where Tetherball goes right up an overhanging face), past a section with thin feet to easier climbing above.   The anchor is very close to that for the Route 6- the climb that passes the high roof to the right, and both climbs can be done from the same anchor.

Direct start to Bee Sting. Climb straight up the thin dihedral for 20 feet, then rejoin Bee Sting.

Start in a corner just right of Climb #19, the lightning bolt shaped finger crack.  Move up the corner that takes almost no pro and make a few face moves to the right.  If you consider putting gear in the lightning bolt finger crack to be cheating, look for small nut placements and its probably best if you don't fall.  If you stem up the corner higher, then step right, its a little easier and better protected (assuming you count the finger crack as "on"). 

  Mantle and step into a right-facing corner that overhangs above you with a weird-shaped offwidth crack in the back.  This is followed by another mantel onto a horizontal crack, and then a hand crack through a fun roof. 

  This is a fun climb that is overlooked in my opinion, with a few sections with unusual movement.  The start is scary when you're leading, and thus is not recommended for sketchy 5.9 leaders.

Follow the left leaning crack system just left of the high roof routes. Lieback at the start, to a hand crack section, which is protected with cams and can be jammed or liebacked. Then cruise up an offwidth section on a ramp that's easier than it looks. The crux is at the small triangular roof, which is bypassed on the left using face holds or a reach to jugs straight over it.Protection is great the whole way, so this climb is one of the more popular leads at the ONP.There are 2 poorly-protected direct starts to this climb to do TR in the 5.11 to 5.12 range beginning left of the normal start; both are posted.

Climb the obvious arete and then finish up the cracks to the left as for route #17. The face to the left of the arete is a contrived but fun 12a.

Starts with an insecure crux in a seam, best protected with a large RP nut.  Falling here would land you on nasty blocks from 8-10' up, if the gear's no good.  Pull onto easier terrain, step right, and head up climbing on easier paired finger & hand cracks to the top.

A boulder problem start (crux) involves mantling up a corner with a seam in the back, where repeated toproping falls likely led to the route's name.  This is hard to protect on lead, but is low enough that it isn't a big deal to hop down.  After an easier section with positive holds, move right onto the second crux: an overhanging face with jugs.  You may be able to place gear before committing to the face.  Mantle onto the platform and finish by stemming with pro in cracks to the back.

Sinewave: One of the most intriguing routes to be found at the Old New Place or in White Rock, for that matter. A challenging and sequency boulder problem off the deck, begin climbing the sinusoidal crack, which will test your skills and strength as you work to keep from barndooring off. The crack is more of a seam for the first 15 feet, although there are places where small RPs would provide protection; bold leaders solid at the grade will love this route. After the initial crux the grade eases for the next 15 feet with large ledges providing good rests and more opportunities to place gear. The route splits into two cracks after this: the left crack, which is assumed to be off-route, goes at a grade of 5.8 to 5.9 rattly fingers to hands with lots of face holds; the right takes you up an excellent overhanging thin fingers to tips crack which, if not for a large sinker pocket midway up on the left, would be significantly more difficult. Ten more feet of climbing in the crack and on small crimps gets you to the top of this classic route. 

  Historical Note: Its reported that the late Derek Hersey freesoloed Sinewave back in the day. Think about that next time you jump on this route!

Berserker is a wide roof crack at White Rock, and there aren't too many like this, so it's worth checking out, if you're into that sort of thing. 

  Lieback the clean thin-hands crack in the left-facing corner to a stance below a roof. This is one of the best liebacking corners in White Rock.  The roof is offwidth-size, confusing, strenuous, and harder than it looks (but easier than it's nominally rated- 5.11c/d), and protects well with #4 and #5 camalots.  After the roof, the climbing is much easier to the top if you stay right. Instead, step left and pull through a 2nd roof on hand cracks for full value.

Climb the interesting sculpted double dihedral.  The route has some wild palming moves about 15 feet up. Exiting the dihedral one can go up the arete above to make a harder end or join bee sting. The moves seem very unlikely at first but reveal themselves as you get more creative. The grade might be off.  I have a hard time knowing how to grade this sort of climbing.

This was the "last great problem" at the ONP until I figured out a sequence and then Rick beat me to the FA by about 3 minutes (to be fair, I got first shot at it and fell off, then managed it after he did it). Pretty much a 10 foot boulder problem with easier terrain above and below, but still a fun problem to throw yourself at on TR.

"God Route" is really just a series of interconnected boulder problems between good rests, but what it lacks in continuousness it makes up through unique movement. 

  Escape the cave moving from left to right, with a boulder problem first crux.  Have faith that the TCU in the horizontal crack above the lip protects the heelhook/mantle move.  You can place other cams below and left of the roof.  There is also a "direct start" moving left from the flakes to the right, which is much easier, like 5.9? (though the guidebook lists it as height-dependent 5.11, so maybe there's a 3rd option?) 

  Place more TCUs and/or small nuts to protect the 2nd crux, an overhanging lieback move or two to a thank-god flake.  Fight the pump to get another cam in, and get another rest below a tough-looking offwidth. 

  The offwidth is easier than it appears.  A #4 camalot fits near the bottom of it, or with a bigger cam (#5) you can place gear higher.  Once you commit to putting your knee in the crack, you've got it.

Start below the obvious high roof.  The reachy start, shared with the next climb to the right, probably has the hardest moves on the route. Follow steep finger cracks with good ledges every 10'. Before you reach the roof, step left, and follow finger and hand cracks to the top. 

  This is my favorite of the 5.9/5.10s at this cliff, with high-quality, interesting, and well-protected climbing the whole way.

Climb blocks to a finger crack on a right-leaning ramp, place good pro and mantle onto a fin (crux). Follow the easy handcrack up to the obvious left-trending flake.  Undercling/lieback out left on this flake to the top. (A popular toprope variation is to step left as soon as you can after the mantle and climb the crimpy face and avoid using the flake). 

  A Direct Start variation (#11 in the photo) reaches the pedestal/prow from the right side- it's also .10a with pro that's better than it looks from the ground.

Just right of Momentum is an easier independent line at Old New Place, that wasn't identified in the guidebooks.  I'll post it here because I've seen there's decent interest in these grades at White Rock and its very close to the popular Bee Sting climb.  You may be able to TR this from the Bee Sting anchor, or perhaps with one redirecting piece.Half way up the cliff, look for a hand crack formed by a left-facing flake.  Climb to this from the left, starting near Momentum.  Above the hand crack, step left and continue up easier cracks.Only 1 star for the rest ledges and some uncertain flakes.

Climb a bouldery start in a seam protectable with a large RP preventing groundfall.  This start is the crux of the unnamed 5.9 crack that goes right.  Step left below a small triangular roof.  Turn this roof (crux) pulling on finger locks in a couple of pods in the seam and smeary nubs for feet (TCUs or small nuts).   Continue up the crack in the shallow open book above (5.10, small nuts and TCUs).

Climb the short arete. It is basically a boulder problem variation start to either climb 20 or 21.  Fun moves!

A reachy start (could be crux for shorter climbers) directly under the obvious roof on very positive ledges and flakes takes you up to below the roof. Then, move right to the edge/arete (crux) on small ledges to blind holds around the edge to pass the roof. Easier climbing above takes one to the top.

Rattlesnake Crack is one of the very best White Rock cracks, rated from 11a to 11c in different sources. 

  The crux is protected by small gear, which makes it a little scary, but good solid gear can be found before committing to it.   

  Head up to the undercling flake.  Place pro underneath the flake and traverse left and crank through the insecure crux to a sharp flake to shake out on.  From here, most of the rest of the climb is 5.10.  Climb up to a triangular roof, pass this on the left, and lieback up the steep finger crack to a stance on the prow.  The crack above is mostly fingers with some thin hands sections. 

  A direct start in a seam 10' left of the undercling is 5.12, with not much for pro, if any.

Climb the start of Rattlesnake crack, then move up and right up a shallow fingercrack. Smaller fingers make this route a bit easier.

Excellent face route that starts 15 feet right of Mike's Route on loose blocks, then fires straight up the clean face above.

This lightning-bolt shaped finger crack on a slightly overhanging clean face is another high quality crack at the ONP.  When you reach the end of the crack, hand traverse left to the arete, and mantle. 

  To finish, most will continue up 5.8 finger and hand cracks with good horizontal ledges to the left (shared with Climb 17), but it may be possible to step right of the arete and follow another seam (as shown in guidebook and in               

Old New Place route guide. (I couldn't fit the route names/grades in anywhere so refer to the route descriptions here for corresponding number.)      ).

The Old New Place is an east-facing basalt wall about 60 feet in height that offers many great crack lines for gear-protected leading or top roping. There are now bolted anchors here as a result of many of the cliff-top trees, that were traditionally used here as anchors, dying. Additionally, blocks and cracks near the cliff edge can be use to establish gear anchors.    The ONP doesn't see a lot of traffic but there are some wonderful crack lines to be climbed here.    Like all the areas in White Rock canyon, placement of new bolts is strongly discouraged as per a long-standing agreement of local climbers. The Los Alamos Mountaineers maintain a copy of the original agreement (1989) along with the amended agreement (2004) that allows for bolted anchors but still discourages new bolted lines.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Old New Place