This fantastic new moderate is located to the right of

Primal Scream

and to the left of the 2150 Wall. Start climbing up a black bulge via pockets and edges to a reachy, pocket crux (which can also be managed by a sloper out left) to gain a ledge rest, then follow the beautiful, water-sculpted features up to the anchors below the roof (5.9) or continue past the steep 1 bolt extension to the upper anchors (5.10c).

Tired Arms Recovery Program (T.A.R.P.)

Lime Street

2150 A.D.

Shout

Living in America

Deconstructing Harry

Emperor's Robe

Primal Scream

Stick It aka Serious Power Outage

Lost Planet Airman

Mighty Aphrodite

Taping Tendons

Aoxomoxoa

Sleeper

Tribal Boundary

Battering RAMM

Move Night

Ripped

2112

Climb the low angled slab/groove on big/sharp holds for 3 clips to a great stance below C4. Clip C4 and grab large holds on the right with ok feet to and past C4 to C5. A sharp reachy/thinker crux is at C5 through C8. Enjoy big holds through C8 to C10. Climb steeper terrain on nice fingery holds to clip C11. Moving up and right to reachy, large incuts on the great upper flake system gets you past C12 to the chained anchors.

This is yet another 3 star route on 2150 Wall.  Just to the right of

Emperor's Robe

(which is pretty much the furthest left route on the wall proper) lies Lime Street.  About 80 percent of it is nice delicate, balancy, graceful moves.  Then as you head slightly left toward the top, there is a slightly overhanging flake/crack.  When you first look at this last section, you will probably write it off as being really easy.  I don't know if the lower section tuckers me out or what the deal is, but the last 10 feet always feels surprisingly challenging.  Have fun!!

This climbs the awesome steep and fun crack on the right side of 2150 Wall.  Layback and jam if you want to up the fun crack. The crux comes at top just past the end of the crack on the face moves above.

This is a fun route that's a tad squeezed, but it is a good addition.

Living in America is an awesome climb just right of crack in the center of 2150 Wall (Ripped, 10c, 4", no stars). Living ... belays just off of the tree,

Taping Tendons

(11c/d) is to right. The direct start to the first bolt is 12d. A standard variation is to stem up the crack, reaching over to clip the first bolt, then traversing just right of the bolt to tackle the sequential crux. Don't worry, it may give you a brief rest after this, but it doesn't ever completely let up until you are at the anchors.

This is a great route that doesn't see much traffic. The route has a sweet collection of varied techniques. A lot of great reachy/thin/crimpy/delicate face moves with several lateral moves, some semi-slopers, even a slabby roof overlap to put her to bed.  If you are tall and have long monkey arms, it isn't too bad, but if you are short, it might be kind of hard.

To find this route, follow directions to the 2150 Wall (brief directions can be found in the description for the route "Serious Power Outage".  Primal Scream is about 100 feet left of the 2150 wall.  A 10 foot tall detached flake/pillar marks the base of this route.

As one of the few 5.9s in this neck of the woods, this route sees a decent amount of traffic.  Primal Scream is one of those routes that isn't great, but isn't bad.  There are actually a couple moves on it that are interesting (and a bit unsettling for some reason).  Just kind of awkward through the crux.  This route is a good one to really concentrate on pulling youself into the wall with your toes and hips.  It is also good for warming up a bit before jumping on the 2150 wall routes.

At the pillar mentioned above, proceed upwards by chimney/stem/liebacking either side of the pillar and mantel on top.  If I remember right, there is a bolt in the chimney that appears and reappears as the years go by, but the climbing is very easy through this section.  Gingerly start moving up and slightly right.  Clip a few bolts on the way up (it will be very tempting to step back to your right onto a ramp).  A few balancy barn door instigating moves and a slap around the left side of the arete/flake will get you through the dificulties.  A couple of fun highsteps onto nice ledges and you will be at the anchor in no time.

This is a good one to warm up on before straining the tendons on the other routes on this wall.

To find the route, park at the parking area at the Bank.  Looking across the canyon to the north and slightly west, the 2150 Wall is the best-looking and largest-area wall on the south-facing cliff.  Begin hiking on the road that descends into the canyon, and after a couple hundred yards, locate a trail on your right-hand side.  This trail descends into the canyon and then heads up the other side to the base of the 2150 Wall.  On this wall there will be a rough-looking fracture that divides the wall in half. This is the trad route Ripped, 10b.  Stick It is the route just left of this fracture.

the route pulls through a big pocket and trends a bit right on balancy intricate moves.  A tenuous high step will get you through the crux (nicely protected) and it should be smooth sailing from there.  This is also a pretty decent route to sling a rope on Oaxamoxa (5.12b) just to the left.

Running laps on this is a good way to wind up a day at this beautiful chunk of rock.  Enjoy.

This is another great 2150 Route, just left of the namesake crack (

105750055

- 5.10d) and right of

Taping Tendons

(11d).  It climbs through thin bouldery moves and continues through thin delicate moves to the top.

Jump up on the low ledge and climb the slab using the lefty corner to clip C1. Climb up and over the solid, un-nerving block past C2 to a stance near C3. Climb great fingers and face moves to C5.

The first crux starts here.

Move up and left with crimpy sharp holds and great reachy left hidden sidepulls. At the small stance below C9, climb through a steeper cruxy 2 clip section on good but tricky hand holds with great feet and a bit of a run to the anchors.

On 2150 Wall, left of

Lost Planet Airman

(11c) and right of

Living in America

(12a).  Climbs through fun thin section to start, eases up a little before the pumpy finish to the chains.

This is a great route to work on for your first 12 for a couple reasons.  First, a little crux at the start and a fun crux at the end.  Second, it is super well bolted and you can easily aid it to get your gear back.  On the 2150 wall, this is the 3rd route from the left, and it is pretty obvious by the number of bolts on it.  Getting through the first part is a bit technical and footsy.  The middle part is pretty casual.  Then, up top it gets a bit steeper and you have some sweet little pockets to play with.  When you are at the anchors, stop, rest, and have a look around.  The scenery is worth the effort.

Climb nice low pockets on the lefty tan face to clip C1. Move to the corner and clip C2 out left. Jog left up to C3. Move straight up past 5 clips on great holds with some pretty sharp rock and big feet to a break under the final 3 clip right-trending headwall. With steeper rock, clip C9 and grab great holds with matching feet to and through C11 to the anchors.

If you are tall and looking for an 11c onsight, this could be the route for you.  It is a pleasant route with a brief crux that is pretty soft for the grade and a nice view of the canyon below make this overlooked route worth some clipping.

Crank up past the first bolt and get the crux over with nice and early. Do a very reachy move up and slightly right with some nice crimpy holds (sorry un-tall people, but I know that you will make up for it with impeccable technique). If you can scramble through this with a little bit of a high step, you might be on your way to glory. Your only obstacle will be a growing pump factor and reading the moves that you need to make to get to the top. A brief clue: don't be afraid to do a crossover or two into aesthetic laybacks. A couple rounded edges at the top to give you that giggly feeling, and you will be home free!

Scramble up past the large, thick flake to the high first bolt. Proceed with vertical climbing past several clips to a stance below the final, steep section. Pass 2 clips to the chain anchors.

There is no real crux. The rock down low is low angle & steep up higher with big jugs on the steeper stuff.

This fine crack is located directly in the center of the 2150 Wall and starts behind the tree at the base.  I believe the crux comes during the first half of the climb.  Start up the blocky broken alcove to a hand jam on the right side.  I reached the flake to the right to gain, what I thought could be loose, good ledge.  From here, a couple of fingerlocks reaches some good jams above. Continue climbing easier, but steep and somewhat continuous, ground to the top.  Be ready for a couple of plants growing out of the crack near the top as well.  There are no anchors at the top, so I traversed left to the anchors of

Stick It

, though one could continue up and belay off a tree.  Walk off to the east (climber's right).

2112 has easy, left-trending climbing to C1 on big holds to a stance at C2. Harder climbing with great hand holds and smeary feet gets you to C4. Cruise past the smallish corner to a bigger corner, and then move past the small overlap to C9. Some thinker moves get you to the anchors.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 10. 2150 Wall