On the far, far right of the Original Meat Wall, before a forming inset arch, you will find a zig-zaging vertical splitter hand crack that turns into a less than vertical thin hands left facing dihedral. Killer moderate climb that gives a friendly thin hands section if your looking to break into that size.

Wee Doggie

Chopping Block

Tofu Crack

Unknown 10- (wide R facing flake)

Hand Prints

Pull Left

A.D.D.

The Streets of Delhi

The Reaper Wears Pink

Hydroponic Pork

The Sickle

Right Arm

Flare Mignon

Sinestra

Meat Hooks

Ladies First

Decent pitch but kind of a sandbag, Ladies First or Wee Doggie make a better warm up. Not as good as its namesake across the drainage on 2nd Meat.

Start w/ 20 easy feet on sus rock then layback and stem up a rattly fingers corner w/ occasional rests to a cruxy move at the top pulling onto a ledge.

Another unknown or unnamed Indian Creek Route. This route is found by moving left from the base of Sinestra on a ledge and popping around and over a few boulders the size of refrigerators to the base of a right-facing corner and flake.

Start up on hand-jams in a corner to work up into it as the corner shrinks to a mere flake. Pinch the arete flake to the left as you negotiate the wide section up top.

The grade in the Bloom book is given at 5.10-, but it felt harder than the unnamed 5.10+... but then again, that felt easier than graded. Which is all to say that it depends upon hand size. Both were in the range of 5.10 though.

Climb an awkward roof down low, get a good rest and climb interesting face and layback moves above to a bolt on the face right of the crack. Above the bolt move left into the long, splitter thin hands crack in a corner that is broken by a squeeze pod in the middle and another squeeze/offwidth move before the anchors.

My guess is that some people will love this route for its varied, unique nature and some people will hate this route for the funky climbing down low, the sandy face climbing, and the old bolt.

Left facing dihedral with a drilled piton bolt 1/3 of the way up.  The piton is in the middle of a very thin tip layback section where gear would be difficult without the piton. From the tips crux the crack continues to go form #2 bd's to #1's switching form laying back to jamming. There are several half rests with wide feet.  Careful this is a long route, you need two ropes to get off, 2 sixties should be fine.

Thin hands splitter that arch's left and makes a crack switch near the end.  You have to scramble up about 50' on broken ledges to get to the start of the route.

This route is at the top of the approach trail and is distinguished by the varnished left-facing corner that makes up most of the route, but doesn't reach the ground.  The start is fifteen feet of technical face-climbing along a seam with occasional pods for gear and finger-locks.  The rock is pretty good, the moves are very interesting, and placing the gear is kind of pumpy. There's a good rest on a sloping ledge at the base of the corner.  The corner goes from big fingers (Red Alien-ish) to a Red Camalot in about 40 feet, to a no hands rest, before pulling a bulge on 3 Friends.  Finish up the corner in hands to big hands, and the all-too-typical grovel up a low angle slot for a move or two to reach the chains.  I do not think it is worth bringing an OW piece for this final section.  It is short and easy.An enjoyable route that would get more stars if it were longer or more sustained.

This short climb is to the left of

Ladies First

.  Start with some sparsely protected face climbing that leads to the left-leaning fingers/thin hands crack, before becoming an off-width which gradually widens to a squeeze slot near the top.

The beginning protects (somewhat dubiously) with a couple of microcams.  A bolt here would definitely be nice.  If somebody wanted to place one, please feel free.

A few hundred yards to the left of

Sinestra

in a large, left-facing corner with thin seams on the left wall. Beautiful handjamming in a varnished corner. Enjoy the many face holds for your feet on the left wall, or just ignore them and motor up the crack.

One 60m rope was just barely too short for the rappel. A 70m rope would be perfect.

Great hands in a corner. Start by climbing on top of the broken pillar/ledge and then into great sustained hands in the corner with stemming and jamming possible between the corner and the small splitter on the face to the left.

This long varied line haphazardly splits the face to the right of Meat Hooks, a short walk left of where the approach trails meets the Orginal Meat.  The 'splitter' crack widens through several pods and offers variation in sizes from the bottom to the top.  Keep gear of all sizes at the ready from beginning to end.  Akward climbing through the pods sends you straight into difficult thin hands climbing.  Use runners to minimize the rope drag on this long and not so straight splitter.  Stiff for the grade, but a good line with lots of quality climbing.

Varied climbing with everything from fingers to fists with a little bit of offwidth too. Face holds appear when they are needed.

This route lies about 100 feet to the left of where the approach trail hits the wall.  Look for the obvious pods in the crack, Right Arm which lies just to the right of Sinestra.  Starts off a pedestal in a short offwidth. This route is a real journey with sustained hand/wide-hands jamming for a full rope length.  Throw in an improbable, intricate face traverse and a finishing body length roof split by a perfect handcrack and you have an ultimate crack line.  Don't worry, the face climbing is well protected.  You will be loving all the borrowed #3 Camalots in the sustained wide-hands section.  I really can't say enough about how awesome this route is.  Have fun!

A stunning line located between "Right Arm" and "Sinestra", Meat Hooks is one of the most continuous fist corners I've had the pleasure to climb.  It is protected by a hell of a lot of #3.5 camalots, #3's are tipped out! Start up through a short off width section (40'), crank through 130' of fists, pull a roof (the only spot #3's work well), and grab the chains.  You most definitely need two ropes. A must do wide crack experience!!!

From the end of the approach trail, head right up the hill until you see an obvious slot with a finger crack inside.  There is a plaque at the base with the name.  The 200 Select Indian Creek guidebook lists this as unnamed 5.10a fingers. A really fun, not too strenuous corner which gives one the option to utilize jamming, stemming, and laybacking techniques.  It goes through a range of sizes so one does not need a huge number of any one size cam.  The crux comes at the bottom where the crack is thin and requires thin (#0 TCU) protection.  This climb makes a great "warmup" for some of this wall's more strenuous routes.

Description

Protection

Routes in Original Meat Wall