Start just right of

Revered Runt

.

Start with sustained climbing on not so go holds to the high C1. Cruise past C1 to C2 and a great rest at the start of C3. Move right on super, Rifle gray, slabby stone with tricky, cruxy climbing and some vertical moves to another rest. Climb straight up, and then bear right at C8 to the sharkskin face. Thin moves on the face with great stone drops you at the anchors.

Lord Bullingdon

Chevalier de Balibari

Gaius Claudius Glaber

Jack Torrance

Marcus Licinius Crassus

Clockwork Orange

Full Metal Jacket

Redmond Barry

Gunnery Sergeant Hartman

Hal 9000

Captain Potsdorf

The Road To Zion

Barry Lyndon

Lady Lyndon

Reverend Runt

Dr. Strangelove

This mega pitch is a new addition to far-left Kubrick's. Start as for

Lord Bullington

, climb a techy, well-bolted slab to its anchor, and then continue for another 14 bolts of fun, fairly sustained climbing. The first roof band holds the technical crux, but sustained pumpy climbing at the top may spit you off. This route is unique for Rifle featuring several crack moves, laybacking a flake, and pumpy, vertical face climbing. It is a bit of a vision quest but is well worth doing.

NOTE: a

70meter rope is

required

to lower to the midway anchor. An 80m rope

will not

reach the ground from the top, the route is a full 45m!

If you plan to leave draws up, you can lower strait off the top of Road to Zion and hit the anchor of the route to is right as your midway anchor. This anchor is fixed with steel chain and biners and is the quicker, easier option.

If cleaning draws, you will need to tram down to the anchor of

Lord Bullington

, and then lower from there.

Like its neighbors

Full Metal Jacket

&

Jack Torrance

this route is still dirty and dusty in spots.

Start on beautiful, gray rock with a very large hold to smaller holds to the high first bolt. Start trending right with cruxy climbing near C2 to a mini-rail out right with some hidden incuts to clip the high C3 for the bigger holds. Clip C4 and stay right for the reachy, big, flat edges. At C5 move up to the next clip. Near C5, go up then head left to clip C6

(there is rope drag here, so a double draw or a long sling on C6 maybe helpful

) to a flat rest spot. Above the flat rest spot clip C7 and climb some dirty rock straight up past a close C8 with tricky moves and a bit of a run to the ring anchors.

A dusty start to C1. Move up to the overhang and C2. Continue on hard moves with good feet and tricky steep hands for 3 clips to a slabby rest. Climb 2 clips on vertical rock to the anchors.

A tricky lieback start with pretty thin feet will get you to a blocky stance. Follow the long gray groove on really good holds and steepening rock to a right-trending short crack. This tricky crux section with edges and an out-of-sight great jug just above C7 will move you left through this section with a bit of run to C9. Continue with easier climbing to a ledge at C10. Climb straight up past 1 clip to the hard-to-clip anchors.

Ascend slabby rock past 2 clips to the bulge. Climb right on good then diminishing holds with some thinker/tough moves to the anchors.

Begin with steep rock on good but reachy holds to C1 under the small blocky roof. Move up to C2 under the roof. After C2, clip the C3 Permadraw, and move left around the roof and a no hands rest on top of the blocky roof. Continue to the reachy C4 moving left and then up to C5.  Go straight up through the upper C6/C7 crux section to the anchors.

This route is the second of three routes to the left of the main wall at Kubrick's Wall. It lies in between Chevalier du Balibari and

Jack Torrance

.

The route begins on good edges and climbs to a high first bolt. A stick clip is recommended unless you're confident at the grade. The route follows good albeit dirty ledges, sidepulls, and the occasional pocket to a fun crux involving a lockoff. Make a tough stand up move to clip the chains.

This is a fun climb that's similar to

its neighbor

to the right, with some harder sections between the stretches of happy jug hauling.

There is a new extension that goes at 10d, FA by MJM & RAMM 6/2019. Info:

Move past the first set of anchors of Redmond Barry with small edges to a close C1. Move up and right past 3 clips with somewhat easier climbing to the upper chained anchors.

Begin with blocky rock with some good holds to get to C1. Sustained climbing with ok edges, sidepulls, and pinches will move you through this 3 clip crux section with some tricky feet. Move left near C4 to a great but reachy left hand finger crack, then ascend a blocky section up and past C5. A rest section with big holds to another crimpy crux. Continue on fun, vertical climbing on great holds past C6 to C10 en-route to the anchors.

Climb the low angled crease to the ledge. Great holds on sustained .9ish climbing will get you through C2 and then easier blocky moves through C4 and a no hands.  Some sustained climbing on great Rifle sidepulls, pinches, and flatholds gain another rest section. Tricky thinker moves will get you to the anchors.

Clip the low C1, move straight up to C2 with thinker moves, and clip C3 to a brief rest. Make some reachy pulls out left around the bulge to and past C4. Move past C5 up to the chained anchors.

Begin with a tricky, tough, low roof start to C1. Follow the fingery seam past 3 clips to a small, grayish, bulgy slab near C4. Move left then up to a stance on top of the grayish, bulgy slab. Follow vertical climbing on good hand holds and feet past several clips to the anchors.

Start with some chossy rock to get to C1. Better rock and movement starts here. Climb the slabby face with various sized pockets and edges for 2 more clips.  Move over the lip past C3 to C4. Go right to C5 with good holds and feet. Move straight up to the right angleing crack and over the bulge with consistent climbing to C11.  A great no hands rest and 1 more clip will get you to the anchors.

Start several feet left of

Lord Bullingdon

.

Climb a sustained cruxy start to C1. Go past C1, and climb straight up on good holds to a tricky section in the smallish corner. Move up into the corner then jog left with small, thinker, crux holds. Good reachy holds gain bigger holds to the final, vertical face and the anchors.

Jump up on the ledge from the left and gingerly move right under the first clip to start.  A few smallish holds with good feet will launch you to bigger holds to C1.  Even bigger holds through C3 await you. Jog right then left past C4 & 5 at the horizonal break and past the blocky crux bulge at C6 & C7.  Cross left at around C8 over the mini-arete where some easier and then slightly harder climbing on good holds goes to the anchors.

Description

Location

Routes in Kubrick's