Located in between Sweat Not and Freeze Not. 5 bolts—fun!

Ross Not

Miner's Arete

After Thought. II

Slab Not

Misty Morning

Freeze Not

The Black Helicopter

May Cause Dizziness

Forget Me Not

Heliotropism 5.12a

Doom

Laugh Not

Sweat Not

Another fine effort by Lance .Some time previous to this discription Lance rope soloed the climb placing the pro bolts on lead from free stances. On this previous ascent he freed the one move that on this ascent after two falls he used a short pendulum from the last pro bolt.Most likely due to some fatigue after him spending seven hours the day before leading the five pitch repeat ascent of his 5.11/5.12a climb in Spotted Wolf Canyon.This climb is on superb rock with great situations and good protection. Starts up the first pitch of "The Black Helicopter" located in Univa Canyon.Follows what Lance calls a clean one day ascent.

P1)On entering the mouth of the canyon scramble up the gully on the right for about 200' to below a slab and the fine left facing corner that forms the climb of The Black Helicopter.Climb up the well protected face (5 bolts) to the belay below the corner of BH.Using the belay bolts as pro climb back down about 20' to a line of pro bolts leading out left onto the smooth looking face to hanging belay at double anchors.150' 5.11.

P2)Follow bolts up to the right then back left to reach a short crack system.It was from the last bolt that a short swing was made to reach the foot of the crack (some cams),up the crack to double anchors right of the pedistal block.150' A0 5.11+ AO.

P3)Go behing the block and difficlt moves up the wall following pro bolts to a long narrow ledge that is followed left to double anchors below the obvious crack/groove of pitch 4.150'5.12a.

P4)Climb the crack (cam protected)to double anchors situated on a narrow ledge just right of the top of the crack .100' 5.8.Note from here one can contine up at about 5.6  to the summit of the formation .

Descent:-From the top of P4 a single rope rap to the anchors top of P3 .From here a double rope rap to the gully below and scramble to the start.

A two pitch route at the back of Uneva with mixed bolts and gear. Fun slab moves with a jam or two mixed in.

P1. Follow bolts up and left to belay in an alcove with a good crack/gear anchor 5.8

P2. Move up out of the alcove and onto the steepening slab above looking for three more bolts that trend up and left. As the slab breaks in angle, follow the ramp up right to a 2 bolt anchor.

Descent: Rappel down the steeper face skier's left from the pitch 2 anchor looking for a second set of bolts on the way down. A single 60m rope will work.

Start at the foot of a corner below an easy slab.

P1). Up the slab to a ledge on the left. 150' 5.0 R.

P2).Climb the slab above then move across right passed a thin flake to double anchors . (Four pro bolts)180'5.7

P3).Climb straight up to a bolt ,also some natural protection on the pitch.Keep to the right edge to double anchors.170'5.6 .

Rap the route to top of pitch one then scramble down corner .

Located in the Uneva Canyon. Drive 3.2 miles from I.70 to right turn . The trail head (map)is a 1/4 mile from the turn. Follow the dirt road into the canyon the route is just past the entrance on the left side ,a right facing corner with fairly steep crack climbing.The climb stays in the shade most of the day. On the whole the rock is very good as is the protection. One could rap off after the first two pitches,the easier last pitch is not of the same quality ,but perhaps worth doing for the view ...

P1).140'. A ramp leads into the corner . Nice climbing up cracks to double anchors. 140' 5.9-.

P2).Continue up cracks to double anchors. 90' 5.9-.

P3). From the anchors move up the slab to the right onto easy ground . Trend right through a nitch on to a blunt ridge .follow to a groove on the right that leads to summit ridge and rap anchors on the left. 150' 5.5. F.A. Paul Ross Layne Potter 1st July 2004

From the ledge move up right to the big left facing corner. Up this for 20ft then move left along ramp for 50ft then straight up the face to anchor. 5.9 180ft.

Freeze Not. II 5.9R ... Takes a line starting up the gray slab between Sweat Not and Laught Not . As the climb remained in the shade on this February day the name was appropriate.

P1)The first pitch has some cam protection to double anchors. 190'5.6R

P2)This pitch has three protection bolts. From the belay climb straight up to a groove that joins the chocolate band of rock. Over a bulge then follow the slab to a short delicate traverse left to good ledge and belay. 200' 5.9R.

P3) Straight up the shallow groove to find double anchors on the ridge (anchors of last pitch Sweat Not) 130 5.4..

Descent: Scramble up the ridge to double rap anchors at the top of Laugh Not. Three raps to the ground.Register in cairn near anchors. FA. Ben Folsom, Paul Ross , Layne Potter, Feb 25 2005

4 pitches.  2nd pitch crux.  Runouts on pitch 3 and 4.

Descent- Short rappel to end of pitch 3.  Then rappel with two ropes to top of pitch 2.  Then a 200 foot rappel to the ground.

Route was established ground up.

Forget Me Not II 5.6+.  Located on the north side of Uneva Mine Canyon.  Walk into the canyon for about five hundred yards to the second formation with an obvious left slanting slab/ramp.  The first pitch climbs through large potholes.  An easy fun route with good situations.

P1) Climb up past the holes (two protection bolts) to an easy slab that leads to double anchors.  200'5.6+

P2) Keep to the left edge of the slab up easy but pleasant climbing to a shallow groove at 150'(some pro), then over right to large block belay.  200' 5.1R

P3) Continue up the left side of the slab to double anchors. 200' 5.1R  P4) Out left from the belay then right up a small ridge to block belays at a notch. 200' 5.1R.

Descent: Go through the notch and a long scramble back down the boulder filled gully just to the right of the slab.

Follow the line of bolts towards two large pods on a steep slab. 5 bolts.

"Laugh Not".  620' 5.8R.  The climb is located on the left side of Uneva Mine Canyon.  From I-70 drive 3.2 miles to a dirt road on the right.  High clearance can drive another 1/4 mile to a trail head and BLM map of area.  From here follow track into Uneva Canyon.  The Chocolate stripes  slabs are obvious.  The route lies up the narrow dike that leads into the massive scoop formation.  Classic slab climbing.

1) Up the delicate slab to a bolt at 60'. Continue more steeply passing two more pro bolts and odd cam placement to belay ledge and good cam anchors.  100' 5.8R

2) Follow slab to a bolt at 40'.  Continue up slab past another bolt to double anchors.  120' 5.8R

3) Move out left then to a bolt at 50'.  Continue past good #1 camalot placement to a small ledge and double anchors.  200' 5.7R

4) Straight up keeping to dark brown rock to the summit and rap anchors.  Register in cairn down to right.  200 '5.4

Descent.... Three 200' raps to to the ground.  FA. Paul Ross, Layne Potter. 21 May 2004.

Located in Uneva Mine Canyon. From I.70 drive 3.2 miles to right turn , then 1/4 mile to trail head. .Follow road on right into the Canyon to the obvious slabs on the left. The route starts up the low angle gray rock ,about 250' to the right of Laugh Not.The first two pitches are very pleasant on excellent rock and easy, One could rap from the top of P2 if needed . P3 has a bit of a punch.

P1)Up the groove slab to double anchors. 190' 5.3/4 R.

P2). continue up pleasent slab to the skyline. Double anchors. 100'5.4R.

P3). Up left to an exposed edge passed two bolts( The second bolt was inadvertantly used as a foothold!). Continue up the crack above the slab,then up the edge on right and then leftwards up the gray slab to double anchors. 190' 5.9... From here the rap anchors of Laugh Not can be seen about 120' above in the notch.. A register is located in a cairn a few feet below the Rap anchors.

Three raps to the ground down Laugh Not, the last rap goes down steep rock off the slab to the left (east).. FA Paul Ross. Layne and Sheridan Potter. June 21.2004

Description

Protection

Routes in I Crags (Uneva Canyon)