Start at the base of

Coroner's Crack

, but take the right hand crack system, topping out to the right.

This is a great route for beginner trad climbers.  It is a fun climb with large, obvious, easy to place pro from good solid rests.  The crux is in the middle section and is initially puzzly for its grade, thus the (+).  Watch for some of the ever-present cactus on the top.

I'm sure we're not the real FA, but this route is not named in Hanson's '99 revision guide.

Swamped

Thickly Settled

Elf Jism Dihedral

Johler Coaster

April Fool

Autumnal Wall

Cooking with Crash

Spring and Fall

Genghis Khan

Conspicuous Consumption

Wrath of Khan

The Ladder

Equinox

Temur (Tamer) Khan

Kublai Khan

ReTaliation

Pilgrimage to Cythera

Clive

Dihedarete

Coroner's Crack

Jerry's Kids

Coroner's Crack is the small roof crack in between "

The Ladder

" and "

Jerry's Kids

". If you enjoy leading on rodent urine-soaked rock with the occasional pocket-o-poo, this is the climb for you. Once you reach the roof (crux), prepare for an arm bar in the crack with loose, flaky feet below. There are some big jugs on top to pull through the loose stuff.

Thickly Settled climbs the face to the right of "

Conspicuous Consumption

". Climb pebbles until you reach the small overhang (crux), step over it, and continue up the slab on small holds.

This is an interesting route with a one or two move crux.  The first bolt is 15 feet off the deck, but after that the bolts are very well-placed.  Stem up the dihedral using the thin crack and pockets on the West-facing wall to get you to a good stance below the final overhang.  The key to this section is getting your feet high and stemming.  Once you make the crux move, you can reach the anchor.

"Johler Coaster" is the corner crack to the left of "

Elf Jism Dihedral

". Climb up an overhanging face on big holds to the start of the crack. Follow the crack to the top.

Climb the arete to the right of

Jerry's Kids

. The crux is in the middle, climbing out of the dished out corner.

Autumnal Wall is a few feet to the right of "

Spring and Fall

". Look for a small crack about twenty feet up, and follow the face up to, and through it. It eases off after the crack.  You can use the bolts for "

Conspicuous Consumption

", but prepare for a pendulum if you come off.

Climb the corner to the right of

Ian

. It has good edges for stemming.

Spring and Fall is to the right of

Equinox

. Look for two vertical cracks which start about 15 feet up, and head for them. The crux is at the two cracks.

This goes directly up the bolted line between

Wrath of Khan

on the right, and

Clive

on the face to the left of the corner.

This is a pretty good lead up a thin crack for 40 feet.  Start in the small, left-facing dihedral just left of a roof and a large, left-facing, inside corner.  Jam and stem your way up to some good ledges.  The pro is decent but a little unnerving when you're making moves over a no. 2 RP in sandy rock....  Continue up the finger crack to a large ledge, then stem up a right-facing dihedral to the bolts.

Climb the arete right of

Kublai Khan

, left of

Johler Coaster

.  The crux is at the overhung bottom.

Climb up the ledge system under the roof, and aim for the crack(s) towards the left. Climb up the cracks, and pass the bush to a ledge. From the ledge, you finish up the crack (crux).

An overhanging crumbling start eases off to some solid rock. Enjoy the juggy middle section, but be cautious of one loose cobble. Finish with a fun mantle. If you want to avoid the unpleasant start, just climb the ledge to the right, and swing over.

This is an easy little corner, much like the ladder. You can use the anchors to top rope from any of the nearby Khan climbs or

Clive

.

Kublai Khan is around the corner to the left of "

Elf Jism Dihedral

." Climb to the right of the bolts. There are three small ledges on the climb, the crux is getting a hand on the first ledge. Once you get a hand on it, traverse left for the clip. If you go higher, it's harder to clip. Enjoy the next big reaches to the other two ledges.

Climb the face to the right of

April Fool

. It has nice edges, try not to use the ledge to the left.

This route is on the face to the right of "

Elf Jism Dihedral

". Start where there is a small shrub at the base of the wall. Head up towards the scooped out ledge. Then follow a thin angling lip, to a final lunge towards a jug. Watch for cactus on top.

Climb the face to the right of

Cooking with Crash

. The action doesn't begin until your ten feet up.   It has thin crimps to the top.

Thin moves up the face and balancy moves to the next rest.  It is pretty technical and sequential for 5.8.  Moving right past the second bolt is 5.9, while left of the bolt is 5.8.  It is not a bad warmup.

Note: The FFA (sport lead) was by Darrin Stein on 7-4-94 and is AKA Born on the 4th of July.

This ascends the arete on the left side of

Clive

.  A shallow dihedral (a foot or so) is at the bottom of the arete - it is hard to miss!  Per the guide, stay slightly right of the corner.  It's true.

This climbs the face just right of the large, inside corner right of

Conspicuous Consumption

.  A few thin moves get you going to some nice pockets and edges.  The right edge of the arete is off.  After a good rest in a large pocket, make some straightforward moves for the rest of the route.  The crux is at the first bolt.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in South Canyon Point