A fun multipitch sport route in a beautiful setting. Some say the bolts could be further spaced, others think they are nicely spaced. Probably all will say it is a safe route. Condorphamine Addiction packs some enjoyable moderate pitches with interesting climbing and two excellent friction crux pitches into a long climb that ends in a commanding position high in Icicle Creek canyon.

The climb could be done in 7 30M pitches and I've described the climb that way below, but many folks prefer to combine pitches. We combined P1&2, 3&4, and 5&6; I think it would be possible to combine any 2 pitches with a 60 M rope. It may be better to split P5&6 so each leader gets one of the hard ones.

Find the start of Condorphamine Addiction near the far right side of the buttress.

P1. A short 5.8 pitch leads up to a set of anchors low on the face (yes, those anchors).

P2. From the end of P1, climb up and into a corner (trickier than it looks), and make a series of interesting 5.9 moves up to a nice belay ledge. (5.9)

P3. The dog of the climb, this is a short section of class IV and 5.0 climbing up and left on ledgy ground.

P4. Head up on a face angling to the right. 5.8/5.9.

P5. The first crux pitch. The crux involves interesting stemming and friction moves in an imposing and steep position. 5.10b

P6. From the top of the 5th pitch continue up on 5.10 climbing to a crux section on delicate edges (5.10b). Combining P5&6 gives close to 200 feet of quality 5.10 face climbing.

P7. Climb fun 5.5 terrain to the top.

To descend, you can rap the rotue and with 2 60M ropes, you can speed your descent and have more flexibility to avoid ascending parties. Otherwise there is an easy ~20m rap from a live tree to the gully behind with a slightly dirty walk off.

Condorphamine Addiction

Condorification

Opus of the Condorian Kind

An alternate start to C. Addiction.  I've seen this climb listed at .10a to .10b/c. I thought it was harder then the two .10b piches on the main route but that those were a bit soft.  Regardless, there route consists of thin slab climbing past 4 bolts and finsihes right past 2 more to the anchor.

This short route sits to the right of Condorphamine Addiction.  If nothing else, it is a worthwhile distraction while waiting for someone to free up the start to C.A.

Description

Protection

Routes in Condor Buttress