This is a route that you won't soon forget! Start a bit to the left of a huge, right-facing flared chimney (

Hot Buttered Rump

). Progressively more difficult crack and then face climbing takes you up to just above (left of) the sharp lip of the chimney. The crux involves scary and very novel barn door liebacking, using the lip for handholds. The protection (bolts) is fairly good, but a fall could involve flying over the edge. This route gets morning sun.

Hair Lip

Hair Pie

Philocetes' Bow

The Jackal

The Gale

Bullocks

Mad Dogs and Edgingmen

The Breeze

Hair Face Variation

Graceland

Free Lance

The Shadow

Hot Buttered Rump

Axe of God

Flatman Chimney

B.S. Arch

Poppycock Arch

Start as Hair Lip but go straight up.

As shown in the guidebook this goes straight up the initial crack of Hair Lip and into slab territory. This way is definitely "R" rated. A more tame version gets to the first bolt of Hair Lip than traverses left with a few slab moves then cool jugs and good gear to the top.

Start up Axe of God.  After the layback moves, head up and right on a crack/ramp.  When the crack ends, move up and left on knobs toward the tree.

This is a poor quality, commiting climb up a groove.  It is difficult to let go and place protection in the thin crack.  This route is just a few feet to the right of The Escalator.  Rappel from the top of the climb.

Climb the crux of the Breeze past its bolt, then move left and climb the face between The Breeze and The Jackal.

This route follows a left-facing corner, just to the left of Flatman Chimney.  A fun, steep undercling with good handholds leads up to an easy face and then the top.  Rappel back down.

Go about 15-20 feet up

The Escalator

and climb out onto the rounded face to the right (could be called an arete). A bolt with a 5.9 move leads to another bolt protecting the crux move. Very average.

This climb was originally rated 5.7.  Over the years, more and more holds have broken off near the start, considerably increasing the difficulty.  The last time I did it (mid 90s), getting up to the bolt 12 feet off the ground was committing 5.9, and the move by the bolt was 5.10A.  Maybe it's harder now.  Above the crux move, a long 5.6 chimney takes you to the top.  This is not a recommended climb.

Start on Hair Lip. Go to the first bolt on Hair Lip, then head back left to finish on Hair Pie.

Begin midway between The Jackal and The Breeze. Climb a slab past 3 bolts up to a flake then move up and left to join The Jackal at its horizontal crack.

The moves between the first and second bolts involve cranking on some very thin edges (11d), although the psychological crux is a scary mantle (10d R) to get to the third bolt. The move above the third bolt to gain the flake is also 10d.

This is an enjoyable face climb, with intriguing footwork at the crux.  As of 1999, a bolt had been added to this route, removing the "R" rating given to it in guidebooks.  Climb the first few feet of The Shadow and then traverse right onto the face.  Rappel from near the top.

This route starts with well-protected, secure liebacks. Higher up, there is a novel lieback (crux) with a committing runout.  The rock is good, and the moves are fun.  Rappel 120 feet from near the top.

Not everyone will like this route, but it is a clean, high quality chimney that demands a lot of technique.  It is very obvious - a huge, strongly flared, right-facing corner.  You can stay in the back of the chimney for good protection or move outside for fun wide stemming moves (perhaps more appropriate when following).  This route is in shade most of the day.

This climb follows a prominent right-facing arch.  A large flake has fallen off, and is standing on edge at the base of the route.  This is the "axe."  A difficult, unprotected undercling start leads to hand jamming and then face climbing.  If you can handle the start, this is a fairly nice route.  Rappel from the top.

This climb is quite obvious - a straight-in chimney.  A short crux overhang with good protection takes you around a tight spot in the chimney.  Easy climbing above leads to the top of the route.

Located on the portion of face between

Free Lance

(5.10c) and

Flatman Chimney

(5.9) and identified as a prominent, right-arching undercling crack.

Start up

Axe of God

and then break right to follow the obvious thin flake which is underclung right to it's end where slightly runout but easy face leads to the top. Rap off (80') the large pine which sits atop the face.

Traverse left under the arch/roof by underclinging a narrowing finger crack with smears and edges for the feet.  Surmount the overhang at its end and climb the easier face up and left to belay at a tree with rappel slings.   Listed as a TR in the guide, this can easily be led on gear.

Description

Protection

Routes in (o) Right of the Escalator