Hand traverse in from the right to the first bolt then straight up the crack and into the dihedral. Follow the dihedral to the anchors.

West Face Dihedral

Sweetness

Tower 2 West Face

Quiet Storm

North Face Direct

Sandman

Good Vibrations

Tower 2 West Arete

Sugar Time

Towering Inferno

Caveman

Barroom Brawl

North Arete

Interesting pulling up the left side of the little cave, then stem across the top of the cave.  Slab above offers cool holds and a no-hands rest. Then an overhanging bulge gives you the business.  Start shares some holds with North Arete, but clip bolts INSIDE the cave. 

  It's probably a stiff-ish 5.11 if you are my height, but shorter folks are likely to think 11+ or 12-.  Harder in high humidity too. 

  I gave it 2 stars but it's really more like 1.5

Make a tricky slab move right off of the ground to establish fingers into crack. Lieback crack with smears for feet to top of crack. A couple of interesting face moves leads to jugs at top of the slab. Transfer over onto vertical wall to the right and climb the cool chicken heads to the anchors.

Boldery start to a good left hand above the second bolt. Climbing gets less steep but still interesting to the anchors. Has quality moves, but too short to earn more stars. Base is currently somewhat unstable so belayer should clip into keeper bolt. Second clip can be a little scary and I stick clipped the second bolt.

A line of large, good-looking, faintly over-hanging flakes leads up to difficult knobs.  Then comes a ledge and a final vertical section to the top of the crag.  This is probably the longest route at the crag.   

  The crux difficulty is height-dependent. It may be 11+ for tall folks, and solid 12 for shorties. At my height (5'11") it felt 12Aish. 

  Incredibly thick lichen has been reduced by traffic and brushing, but there was a bunch.  More traffic will help.

Start at the LARGE undercling flake and climb to ledge.  Then up crack.  Where Towering Inferno heads left, keep going up.  Nice features all the way. 

  Tons of lichen at the top, somewhat better now.

Make a couple of crimp moves to get an undercling at bottom of the bulge. Continue up with the majority of hand holds are full-hand in the obvious right facing corner. The feet are more problematic. A couple of the corner holds are still sandy, hence the name. I intend to clean the holds in the near future. The last bolt of climbing is on vertical knobs. The climb is fairly steep and somewhat pumpy. It should warrant two stars once I clean up the two sandy holds.

Up bulges to an overhanging crux.  The most troublesome lichen has been brushed, but there is more there.

Right of Barroom Brawl is a shallow stemming dihedral with a clean crack. Actual jams (!) and stemming lead up the crack.  Then follow bolts to the right, around the arete and up to the anchor. 

  I can almost give this route 2 stars once it is clean.  It has a couple of real jams -- rare on Lemmon.  Some folks found the crack to be an awkward struggle, but I liked it.  And the top has some cool holds.

Start in a trough with cracks to a stance to the right. Traverse left to clip and then over a bulge. Follow more bolts past the crux to anchors.

Shares a start with North Face Direct.  Climb the cool, LARGE undercling flake to the ledge.  Continue up crack until you can traverse left through orange rock leading to another, left-slanting crack that takes you to the NE corner of the crag.  Climb corner to anchor.

Burly little route that stays on you almost all the way. May be 12a espec for shorter folks.  Slightly overhanging.

Tricky sequence on corner leads into a crack. Follow the crack until good stance below a bulge. Climb onto the bulge and knob climb to the anchors.

I found this crag while scouting for rock a few years ago. The location was pretty remote with a beautiful view of the San Pedro River Valley and there was no evidence of anyone having been there before. I talked Joe Kreidel into taking a look at the crag, but we never got back before he moved to San Antonio. Fortunately for me, in November of last year, I was able to convince John Baker to take a look and we top roped a couple of routes on the east side. This convinced us that it would be worth developing the crag. Josie Wodraska soon joined in on the crag development. There are now 12 routes from 5.10- to 5.12 with the possibility for a few more. The area is comprised of three main towers with routes facing to the east, north, and west. The base is still a little unstable, especially on the west side. As such, a couple of the routes have keeper bolts to protect the climbers. All the routes were covered in lichen, and even after much cleaning, would benefit from a little more brushing. The elevation is about 7,200’, so even when chasing shade it might feel warm when the temps in town pass 100 (unless it’s windy).

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in TriTower