Begin about 50 feet downhill and left of Open Book. Make a reach left to a flake, then stem up a shallow, hard to protect corner (5.10-), exiting left to an arete, then continue up slabby (5.8) and runnout face climbing up and right to a 2-bolt anchor on a nice ledge.

Bibliography

Green Arch

Open Book

The Bookworm

Mechanic's Route

Torque Wrench

The Glossary

The Hedge

Zig Zag

The Bookend

Flashback

Bookmark

Turn the Page

Hedgehog

The Green Arch is one of Tahquiz's greatest climbs. It follows a striking corner to the right of the

Open Book

(5.9). An amazing climb you dont want to miss. And yes, it's sandbagged.

Pitch one: Start about 100 feet below were the arch begins and climb past a few pitons and one bolt to a small ledge where the arch begins (5.10+).

Pitch two: The crux. Stem your way up the smooth corner for about 100 feet. Except for the occasional pin scar there is no crack in the corner to help you out. Use the many fixed pitons for pro. Look for the rest on the outside of the corner about sixty feet up the pitch. The crux is when the corner starts arching right. Follow three bolts up to the belay after the corner ends (5.11c).

Pitch three: Climb the easy gully to the right all the way to the top.

This three pitch beauty ascends a very obvious dihedral.

1) The first few moves off the deck are exciting and lead to an enjoyable first belay in a little nook.

2) The second pitch contains the business. You layback a 4" crack for 60+ feet to gain a belay either inside a little cave or right after depending on what gear you have left.

3) Pull the roof out of the alcove if that's where you set your belay, and continue up the dihedral in the left-side crack, much less steep and quite a bit easier than pitches 1 and 2. Eventually cross the slab and continue up to climb the deceptively easy roof on the right side. Top out and hike to the top of Tahquitz on easy 3rd class. Then you can hike out.

This is one of the most demanding face pitches on Tahquitz, on beautiful rock.

Clip the fist bolt on The Hedge, then climb straight up over a small roof (1.5 inch CD) to a fixed pin. Crank on thin edges (11d) up to a bolt, then continue on very thin edges (11c, stay right) up to a small ledge with another bolt.

From here move down and right, then up a short left-facing corner to a bolt (10a). Climb straight up the black streak to another bolt (10b) then power through the slightly overhanging crux (12b/c) up to another bolt. Climb up and left, joining the top section of The Bookend at its last bolt. A 1-inch CD is useful in the thin crack at the very top to protect the final move up to the anchor (11a).

This shares the first bit of the

Open Book

and then traverses right to easier ground. The traverse move to gain the right crack is a bit interesting. Then after setting an anchor, the 2nd pitch asends a line of bulges and chickenheads without much gear. The third pitch traverses and ends in a 4th class grove with a fun topout on HUGE holds!

More like a direct start to Mechanics Route this has some sporty moves on a vert face. Start like going to Green Arch but move left to clip a piton then up a narrow face with three bolts. Beware loose flakes, the good holds are solid. Trend into Mechanics Route after the third bolt. We finished on the Flashback 11a slab into the last pitch of Open Book.

Begin just right of Bibliography, at a short crack that diagonals right to a dihedral that slants back left. Stem up the slick dihedral, then pull over a bulge to the right, finishing with easier face moves up to the 2-bolt belay ledge.

Listed as 5.10d for in the book, this felt no harder than 10a. Make some easy moves and clip  a bolt under a small roof corner, get on the jugs in a layback crack a bit left, then back right on a flake. Before the flake peters out make a traverse up and left to a nice alcove and a two bolt belay.

This excellent climb is on the relatively narrow wall to the right of the

Open Book

. Start with the initial overhang of the Open Book, then move up and right past a bolt, and into a crack system. One or two 5.9 lieback moves are followed by easy climbing, and then a 5.9 move just before the belay (the route joins

Mechanic's Route

here). When Mechanic's Route branches off and right onto face climbing, continue up the crack. Great finger jamming leads ten or twelve feet up to a crux exit move onto the face.  Climb up to a crack above, and on to a belay.  Exit to either the right (Mechanic's Route) or left (Open Book).

This airy pitch starts at the 2-bolt belay 60 feet up and climbs the steep face just to right of The Edge. Climb a shallow corner via sustained 5.10 face climbing up and right past 4 bolts to a thin crack, which is the crux. A 1-inch CD is useful to protect the final step-up to the anchor.

Climb halfway up the first pitch of Open Book to a obvious right facing arch 10a, which curves up and right. From here move up and right onto the face which share the belay for ZigZag and Mechanic's Route. At the start of the second pitch mantle an overhanging block on the left to a thin corner 10d, which leads to face climbing past 3 bolts up to the last belay of Open Book.

A variation finish to P2 of the Open Book. Just as you get to the finish alcove bust left under the roof with under-cling jugs, then a exciting move to the corner. Belay in the Traitor Horn alcove or finish on TH or Pearly Gates.

Fun short traverse off Open Book's P1. Go up from the P1 belay of Open Book, and look left for a lone bolt. Finish on the rap chains for P1 of The Edge.

Crank up the steep face between The Glossary and The Hedge past 5 bolts. A small overhang above the third bolt is the crux.

Description

Protection

Routes in (h) Open Book Area