Listed as a project (climb 20, P.342, D. Knezek's guide).

Ben red-pointed this Summer 2012.   Consensus on grade needed.

As of May 2013, there are no anchors on this climb.

Ben Sent

Gun Tower

Cracker

Death From Above

Neptune's Spear

Close Quarters Combat

Gitmo

Silent but Deadly

Cyanide Suicide

3-2-1

Hammerhead

Def-Con 1

Gorilla Warfare

Special Forces

Vote with a Bullet

One percent

Mr. Hanky

Butt Crack

GI Joe Kung Fu Grip

Bollocks

Cannonball

This may be the hardest route in the Compound.

Several difficult clips low down culminate in a V9 squeeze move around the 4th bolt.  More pumpy climbing leads to a powerful reach after the 8th bolt.  From here, either break left into Cracker, or continue directly up and utilize the "cannonball" hold.

The direct finish is a hair harder than and superior to the left finish, but both are roughly equivalent.  I was told that the cannonball hold was hollow and detached, but I found it adequate for my needs.

You will find multiple cruxes and lots of big, yet disappointingly pumpy holds on this steep, left trending route.

Pull on and immediately do one of the hardest moves to a huge jug.  Keep moving left along a cobble rail negotiating some small roofs and overlaps.  Clip the very long draw, and continue moving left to the last decent rest below the final crux.  A couple of lateral moves on smaller holds gets you to better holds which lead to the chains.

Beware of sharp carabiners on this one.  Gun Tower is a very popular warm up for the harder routes and the combination of rope drag, and high traffic cause these carabiners to wear quickly.

One of the coolest sequences at the compound by the microwave boulder at 3/4 height. This route has not seen much traffic (as of 2015) so expect a little loose rock and sandiness on lower section.

Named b/c FA cracked his head on one of the huge protruding cobbles.

Steep and powerful moves define the bottom bouldery section.  At bolt 6, move right and join Gun Tower/911 at "the drunk buddy" cobble.  A few more bolts of pumpy climbing gets you to the knee bar rest and the base of the 911 headwall.  Rest up here and then gun for the chains. Pull the lip and stand on top of the Compound.

Another really great route with lots of flowy movement and no distinct crux.

Big moves on decent cobbles leads to a good rest in a sandy jug feature.  Sprint through 25 feet of crossovers, big moves and committing lunges to better holds before doing the final crux of Gun Tower.

This route might have been a bit manufactured, but damn it's fun!

Consensus needed on grade - somewhere in the range of 13b-13d??

The crux starts off from the ground to bolt 3.  Many feet cutting moves with poor hand holds and poor feet.  The climbing is not over after this first crux, it stays fairly dynamic and continuous to the rest before the roof.   From below the roof, there's another boulder problem to reach a kneebar above the roof.  From here, it's just holding on until the finish, however it throws a little something at you before reaching the final clipping holds.  This route has fun moves, but could benefit from more traffic to clean it up.

To the right of Gitmo. Short and powerful. Good route deserves more traffic.

Starts on left side of cave to the left of 1%. Hard bouldering start. Consensus on grade needed..... 13c, 13d???

Super Sonic Transport 9 bolts

Great moves of reasonable difficulty to a crux before the top. One of the hardest climbs at the crag.

Much harder than it looks, 3-2-1 climbs a very featured, slightly overhanging wall on the right end of the Compound.  Expect some hard clips, no great rests, and disappointing holds from top to bottom.

Climb an easy ramp to the base of the wall and reach up to some very large cobbles to get established on the route.  Grunt past some hard thin moves, and a difficult low clip, and then motor through an endless series of poor holds, and big moves to the top.

Some people use kneebars.

Brush up on your bouldering before tying in for this one.  It also wouldn't hurt to do some serious core training.  You will need both to make your way to the top of this climb.  This one is on you from the get go, but if you can make it through the bottom half it is just a matter of hanging on to the anchors as the moves ease off a little after the initial difficulties.

This is a stellar route that is SOLID at the grade.

Have fun and prepare to be humbled.

Starts in the middle of the cave above the collapsed small tree. OK to use the small tree as start foot. Impressive steep line up the center of the cave. Cool heel hook beta for 4 moves through the crux lower section.  Resistance climbing to top. Knee-bar beta at 3/4 life saver on redpoint.

Consensus on grade needed - input ranging from 13d-14a, which may be largely due to height and use of the kneebar at 3/4 point on route.

Gorilla Warfare was bolted in 2012 and begins on 3-2-1. After 3 bolts head left up the steep prow. Typical of Compound routes - longer, powerful movement with a pump expected.

This is a really fun route with a hard clip and an intense roof crux to a very pumpy headwall.

Start with some steep straight forward 5.11 climbing to a nice jug at 20 feet.  Make a tough clip, and muscle through a very steep roof crux on underclings and sidepulls to a good rail at the lip of the roof.  A few strangely hard pulls on some awkward holds gets you to another rest.  Hold it together on the extended final crux and then follow good holds to the anchor.

This is another amazing 13b at The Compound.  There are good holds abound, many are sandstone rather than the cobbles, prior to the crux right at the end that revolves around two basketball size slopers.

This climb will not disappoint.

Starts on the far left side of the crag. This is the second climb in and you might want to stick clip the first bolt.  This is the crag "warm-up", but on your first go this climb feels stout until you learn the beta. Long pulls between good holds to bolt 4. Shake and power up through more steep to another shake. Tricky beta in the middle until you get to the mini shelf. Approach the anchors in the mini-dihedral.

This route does the job for a warm up, but certainly not a classic despite the awesome picture on the cover of the Pegg guide.  Feels pretty hard for the first time until you figure out which holds to use.

Obvious large crack on right side of cave.

This route would likely be more popular if it was fixed like the rest of the crag, however its worth bringing some draws to use it as a warm up for some of the harder routes.  A good alternative warm up if you plan to use Gun Tower as your warm up.   It climbs quite well with interesting sequences throughout.

This route begins with positive holds and increases in difficulty as you proceed.  The crux comes under the final bulge.  Once passing the crux, the holds keep improving to the finish.

One of the longest routes at the Compound, going all the way to the lip of the ampatheater. Shares the same classic start as Gun Town but take a hard right after clipping the long red (now a chain) draw at the ninth bolt. Make a few big reaches on good holds to get to the sandstone ledge. Here you can find a great rest (hint: look at the Knezek guide book). Get it all back then launch into the final steep head wall making some big moves on some great slopers and pinches.

No distinct crux. You just need a lot of power-endurance and the right body position to hang on at the end. Amazing movement from bottom to top.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Compound