Chuck's boulder problem

The Sleeper

Groove Rat

Baldielox Buldge

Two Trojans

unnamed off-width crack

Atomic Elbow Drop

Roof Corner

Arm Bar

Spinning Back Kick

Toprope Route

Hex Marks The Spot

Atomic Knee Drop

Marc Johnson face route

Mr. Green Slings

Wendy's Salad Bar

Foolish Behavior

Foolish Fists

Pile Driver Variation

Frankly Scarlet

Pirates of Lawtonka

Yee Haw J.T. (Just Traverse)

Pile Driver

Roof Crack

Yee Haw Variation

Crag Booty Low

Roundhouse

Wolfman's Route

Hern, Frank Thing

Crag Booty

Foolish

Down for the Count

Locomotive Breath

Yee Haw

If you look to your left as you walk down the approach path, you'll see a hand crack that splits the upper wall.  This is the top of Atomic Knee Drop.  Below the hand crack is a short right-facing dihedral - the route's start.  Climb the dihedral (large cams helpful) past a diagonal crack on the right side.  The crux (if there is one) is climbing through the upper part of the dihedral to gain the crack above.  Finish up the fun hand crack.  Great protection from bottom to top.  Walk off left to join the approach trail.

Fun start and a strenuous climb til the resting position on the stuck rocks.  The crux is the endurance to that point.  The face climb to the tree has hidden feet gems.  Scan for these and enjoy the simple face climb up to the tree.  It was enjoyable to get that offwidth pump and then have a fun face climb when you are pumped and out of breath.

Start in the crack climbing up from the end of the ledge.  Place a piece of protection before starting up as a fall off the ledge would be bad for both the climber and probably the belayer.  The toughest moves are getting up into the crack, but there are some great holds along the crack.  About 2/3 of the way up, the crack splits in two - one continues straight up, the other slants to the right.  While both cracks are about the same difficulty, the one of the right is better.  Layback along the crack and continue to the large ledge at the top.  Walk off.

Climb through some liebacks and stems up to an overhanging block.  Moving left up onto a difficult slab.

Climb the face to the right of Locomotive Breath clipping the two bolts.  A crack breaks the upper wall.

Follow the crack up under the overhanging boulder.  Move left and finish on the run out slab.

It takes the obvious off-width crack that turns into a chimney toward the top.  Starts with fist sized crack and goes to tight body jams. Definitely a bit of a grunter route.

This is a variation of Atomic Knee Drop. To traverses off AKD using a finger crack and finishes  an independent slab line to the top.  Trad line. IDK who the FA was. Definitely a fun variation.

A little more strenous than Roof Crack.  The wider crack work may soften or stiffen the rating.

Climb the small face to the right of the arete to a ledge.  Then follow the crack going up and right.  Finish up at the end of Foolish or up the gully that preceds it.

The opening moves are pretty good  climb the shallow dihedral to the top.  Thin climbing (over small, marginal protection) leads to a set cracks separated by a small bulge.  Continue up the good face above to the same large ledge shared by most of the climbs on the cliff.  Be aware that there may be a little poison ivy in the cracks, but its easy to get around.

Sustained face climb.  The hardest line on upper Mt. Scott.  3 bolts make the lead quite bold.  Cranking straight off the deck it can be a fun TR.

Matched on the ledge with slopey feet, deadpoint to a bucket. Top out right on incut slots (easier) or left, pulling the lip with underclings and good feet. Easier if you’re tall, hence the split grade.

First climb just after the walk down. A flat spot at the base of the climb just before you head down the talus field. Almost a pure friction climb except for a few ripples in the rock. The face climbing leads to easier climbing up higher.

Climb the short, easy crack at the back of a shallow dihedral past a horizontal crack to a ledge.  This is where the fun starts.  Climb the face above the ledge with a crack and headwall on the left to an overhang.  The face is covered with lichen and is smooth, making the stance below the roof difficult to maintain for long.  The crux is pulling through the roof.  The crux moves protect very well with a large cam (#3.5 or #4 Camalot) and a large stopper above the roof.  Match hands on the crack, lean away, and through up a heel.  Transfer your weight and mantle up to a good stance above the roof.  Continue up the crack and walk off the top.

Climb just left of Locomotive Breath up and traverse right into the depression, then up the crack that finishes Baldielox Buldge.

Climb the crack and exit left to bolt then climb the face.

Thin hands to fists in a short roof. Widens to a full-on offwidth wrestlemania at the lip.Start laying on the highest shelf with your head pointing towards the inside of the cave. Use the jams directly overhead (match) and keep your feet on the roof and crack. 

Climb original Pile Driver route til the ledge, then climb the face left of the watermark. Utilizing the crack in the watermark with your right hand, continue up the slab. If you lead this variation, the runout from the ledge to the crack leaves the potential for a nasty fall. I gave the route a 5.9 since I dynoed the first large left hand hold left of the watermark. If you can smear it, you may think it is a 5.8.

A fun, albight short route up an arete just right of Top Rope route.  The crux is positioning yourself to clip the bolts.

Climb the first 20' of Yee Haw and instead of going straight up the crack traverse out to the right. Follow the obvious ultra positive hand traverse and walk your feet along the slab.  After the traverse head straight up a 4 foot wide lichen filled chute (5.5) to the ledge on top.

Pile Driver is just a few feet to the right of Atomic Knee Drop.  Look for a large, thick flake that starts off vertical, and then diagonals to the right towards the top.  The most difficult climbing is through the vertical section of the flake (large cams helpful).  From the ledge on top of the flake, continue up the face to some trees that you can use for an anchor.  Either rap back down to the base with one rope, or walk off to the left.

Good introduction to roof climbing.  Turning the roof is the crux.

Climb the normal Yee Haw route, then when you reach the ledge on the left, traverse out onto it.  It is easier than it appears.  Then follow up the finger crack to til it runs out then finish route on the top of Yee Haw.  Crux would be getting started on the finger crack.  It is a lot more thrilling due to the traverse and the smearing and finger crack.

Starting in the small cave feature on a good undercling and poor pinch, gain the slopey crack up and right. Smear your feet or just campus as you transition into Crag Booty. Dabby start.

Climb the face left of Spinning Back Kick. A one move wonder involving a deep lock-off on a an incut edge with poor feet 15 or 20 feet off the ground. Will probably feel harder for short folks. After the ledge, it's more fun to follow the rope directly up the slab instead of finishing to the right on Spinning Back Kick. 

Climb up a dihedral covered in green moss to a ledge.  Then climb a small seam to the right of the water streak.

No gear for the first 30 feet till you hit the upper crack.  The crux is the first couple of move just off the deck.  A good TR for the area.

Matched on the low rail with the old fixed copper head, use fancy footwork to work up and right through the beautiful sloping crack on the gently overhanging face. Head back left to top out on underclings and good feet. Excellent movement!

One of the better climbs on Upper Mount Scott.  Climb the stellar hand crack that splits the dihedral.  The crack narrows at the top, and then ends about one third of the way up.  From here move right and work up the face on small edges.  The climbing is pretty positive, but the protection is negligible and deserves the R rating.  Continue face climbing until you can work back to the left and top out using another thin crack.  The crux is the transition between the two cracks.  Fun, thoughtful route.

Crux is getting off the deck.  Fist and foot jams get things started 10 feet to a ledge.  Then follow the flake to the right or the black water streak.  Use the crack to the left of the water streak.  Crack has good gear, great stances and finishes up on the big spacious ledge.

Thin face climb with no protection on the lower part.

From the ground, Yee Haw looks harder than its rating.  Start in a grungy corner that gives way to better climbing above.  Continue up the clear hand crack to a small headwall just below the top ledge.  A second crack just to the left will help as you climb through the headwall to the ledge above.  From the ledge, walk back up to the road.  Great protection along the entire route, and a good route to end the day on.

Most of the routes are pretty short, but this has the best selection of moderate routes in the refuge.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Upper Mount Scott