Cracks protect some face climbing until you reach thin seams. Protect upper section adequately to prevent falling onto the ledge.

Damn the Man

Little Widgets

Desert Rats Be Damned

Three Piece Chicken Widget Meal

Get Jiggy Widget

Little Widget Big Widget

Widget of Oz

Got Widgets?

Widgets are for Kids

Sport Project 3

Bitchin' Widget

Why’s everything a widget?

Sport Project 2

Middle Widget

Finger widget

Wicked Widget of the West

Heavy Metal Widget

Sport Project 1

Crack-a-Lackin'

T-Rad

Midgets midget

Trad Project

Climb this nice face using positive pockets. Plug gear in the thin crack to the left.

Short pocketed face protected by hand crack.

Start on unprotected but easy, pocketed slab to access the crack. Protect the move pulling onto the protruding block at right. Layback and trust your feet as you ascent this crux move. (A nice pocket on the face makes this move easier.) A large cam or hex protects this fist-width finish.

Inside corner leads to overhanging hands.

Chains are difficult when walking form the parking lot, but if you walk almost all the way to three piece and turn around, they are obvious. Easy to protect, starts off on smaller gear and each piece you place gets bigger starting from 1.5” to 4”. Super fun and easy.

Can a thirty foot route be described as relentless? Yes, and its name is The Widget of Oz.

The business starts from the first move and doesn't let up until the anchors. Steep, sustained, challenging, and a bit of variation. A great line. Move quickly.

Despite the scary mudstone start, this is a fun line!

Single bolt protects the bottom. Climb the inside corner to the top of the large flake/block. A cool horizontal finger crack leads right and joins a vertical crack for large hands. Two bolts protect the top.

Challenging, bouldery start. Protect the roof and pull! Once past the roof, jam fists up a left-trending crack, which then thins to hands and goes straight up. This route shares finish and anchors with God Widgets?

Good face climbing split by a finger crack. Fingers to ring locks leads to an unprotected bouldery crux. Finish on small hands.

First new and different chains you will encounter coming from the parking lot and just to the right of got widgets. Chains are somewhat centered between two cracks, the one on the left is easy to protect until the last 8 or so feet where you must traverse a band of looser rock that can be hard to protect, then clip chains. Gear to 2 inches The crack on the right is a bit wider and while the bottom has some choss, the rest of the route is a lot easier to protect and more centered under the chains. Gear to 2 inches.

To the right of widget of oz. if you have ever looked just to the right and thought that would be a great route, well now it is. Tough climb that starts on a slightly overhung crack that is between hands and fingers. A couple very helpful face holds help get to the big bellow at the top of the crack. Protect before you crawl up into it because there is very limited placement until you start up a little further. After the bellow the crack narrows again and you can climb to chains well protected.

Cool crack, but the route is short. Slightly slanted to the right finger crack that is easy both to climb and protect. Unfortunately once the crack stopped the rock above sounds hollow also chains were not placed higher. Hop onto the same ramp start as widget of oz and middle widget and then climb the crack for about 15 feet.

Fun and a bit strenuous. Use the inside corner crack and the right face to work up this steep line. Opportunities for gear diminish as you get higher. Fortunately, so does the difficulty.

Mud stone start to a nice inside corner finger crack on bomber stone.

Dean's description: "One of the best lines at Midget Widget! A thin inside corner crack leads to an overhanging unprotected face. Pull on some good pockets to regain the crack above."

Finger crack leads to bulging corner. Strenuous.

Easy to climb easy to protect. Short, would be fun for a beginner to feel safe leading and placing gear.

Damn the Man

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Midget Widget