This is the right-facing flake/corner that arches into a roof, located at the right end of the cliff. Begin with a mantle to get into the corner. Climb the crack and various features past a couple tough sections. The flake becomes an under-cling near the end and you must make a difficult reach (11a) to a fingerlock and then pull into the thin crack above. The climbing eases to the anchors.

The rock quality is suspect in a couple areas, but you can mostly find solid pro. The lichen is pretty thick on this one too. The climb would improve with more traffic.

High Profile

Health Insurance

Lifeline

Snatch Power

Woods Taylor

Petty Larceny

Finger Lickin'

Low Profile

Fun Flake

Jaw Bone

Pinky Paralysis

R and R

Pandora's Box

Three stars is definitely charitable, but with a bit of love and traffic this route has the potential to become something wonderful and unique.  The route follows a messy, complicated corner system with a mix of delicate face-climbing, burly crack-climbing, and bizarre granite tufa-pinching.  At the time of this writing I believe it's seen fewer than ten ascents, and still has a fixed line on it from (I'm told) cleaning and equipping.  (This line is an old and should probably be removed, but that will likely require a knife.)

This route is in the Sloan guidebook and gets 5.10, but I'm not sure what that's based on.  I believe Dan McD called it 11- originally, and it's certainly harder than 5.10s in the area, with tricky cruxes at the first and last bolt.  This is a route that's still cleaning up.  Expect dust, bird shit, and adventure.

The Sloan topo shows two bolts, but there are in fact four -- three for the face climbing in the middle, and one at the very top.

Health Insurance is the big right-facing corner just to the right of

Pinky Paralysis

. It's got a little bad rock and a lot of lichen. There are some sections of enjoyable climbing which make it marginally worth-while.

Start off some blocks and climb the easy offwidth with a hidden lieback-crack on the inside. This leads to varied climbing up the corner through a rotten bulge with bad pro and a scary looking block hanging out. Then some nice fist jamming and offwidth to a ledge. And finally some steep doublecracks up to a big block.

The anchor is a tree with rap slings on it. It would probably be a good idea to bring some extra webbing in case it needs to be replaced. Two ropes or an 80-meter will get you to the ground. We rapped with one 70 and had to downclimb the first 15 feet of the route.

Start this route from the small ledge next to a bush. Climb up past nice hand jam pods, an awkward flare and thin cracks to the sloping ledge. Once established on the ledge, carefully traverse to the left and finish on a glorious finger crack to the anchor. Best route at the cliff!

A great pitch with fun jamming above.  Just pull the crux down low and start jamming.

From the anchor on the ledge at the end of the 1st pitch of Health Insurance, step out left clipping 2 closely spaced bolts, and pull the crux moves.

A rest on a ledge leads you to another bolt (which keeps the rope off an extremely sharp Arete), and 50' of 5.11- finger crack to a bolted anchor.

An excellent crack for those just breaking in to the grade.  Sometimes it is wet at the bottom, and partially sand filled higher up.  Don't let this stop you.  Pull through the crux at the bottom. Finger lock and jam your way to the top, then rappel from slings around a bush or walk off to the right.

The route starts with overhanging good hands crack , then thin hands, then off fingers. Just before crux when it become hard- there is the thin crack on the right which can be use for stemming.

The crux for me is huge rich for good fingerlock just above small horizontal crack in the middle of the route. This section is similar in difficulty to Anticipation on Arch rock. After the middle crux- route ease up to thin hands. The upper thin crux marked in book also 10d - felt at least two letters easier than first one. This route is my nemesis -I tried it 4 times and never redpointed. I even know the pro in order , but it is not help. I've been always trashed at the point to make move on first crux

First twenty feet jam big hands then hands straight up. Enter an awkward corner, then lieback an apparent off-width. Thin face moves get you to two bolts and rap rings. From first set of bolts, optionally exit the corner left on good feet to an additional two bolts and rap rings.

A great little warm up for the area.  Climb good jams with a stem out left, then the crack widens when it zig-zags.  This is the crux.

Formerly known as Great Moments In Baseball, this stellar crack is normally done in two short pitches or one long pitch if you have it dialed.

Pitch one climbs a broken crack up to a roof. Good moves take you out left. Jam your way to the chains.

Pitch two climbs a sustained thin finger crack with slightly painful locks and small edges for your feet.

Located at the right end of the cliff. This climb starts up a steep hand and fist crack that angles left to the arete. Make some awkward moves (10a) at the arete to get established on a large and very thin flake. The flake leads to a crack system above with more solid pro. The climb finishes with an airy traverse left (10a) along a seam to reach a mungy ledge system. Finish at the bolted anchors on High Profile.

Lots of lichen and some questionable rock, but good exposure and some fun moves.

This is a fun, albeit short, fist crack that is logistically a bit of a pain in the ass to climb. If you scramble to the right of Finger Lickin' you will see to large cracks/corners that face south. The right one is a chimney, and the left one is Pandora's Box.

Scramble down a brush filled gully (there is usually a fixed line here) until there is a short drop-off. You must find a place to belay here amongst the trees. The belayer will probably want an anchor. There is some easy hand-jamming to get up to the base of the fist crack. The crack starts out as #4 Camalots and narrows to 3's. Above is a slabby ledge that is capped by an overhang. The climb finishes out the left side of the overhang. There's some good pro here (small to fingers) and I had to stand in slings to get over the bulge (probably more like 5.10+ to free).

At the stance above I found a couple small hexes with some very tattered webbing. I added a large nut and got the whole rig equalized with some fresh cord and a locker, so the anchor should be bomber for a while but the soft materials will need to be replaced eventually. The guidebook also  shows the option of topping out and walking off, but who knows what kind of poison oak infested nightmare that would be.

Description

Protection

Routes in Af. Finger Lickin' Area