B.A.M. (Bitchin’ Alternator Madness)

Lost Wages

I Am Pokey

One Armed Bandit

Double or Nothin'

Mickey Goes to Vegas

Black Jack Crack

Take The Money and Run

13 Black

Dealers Choice

High Roller

Royally Flushed

Roll the Dice

Gamblin Fever

Lucky Streak

Gumby

Edge your Bets

Lady Luck

Read 'em and Weep

Bet on Black

Wild Card

Texas Holdem

Let It Ride

Deal From the Bottom

Fist Full O' Dollars

Hold or Fold

Winner Takes All

Crack Dealer

Ten the Hard Way

Easy Money

Progressive Slots

Ace in the Hole

Ante Up

Circus Circus

Big Spender

Slots O Fun

Queen of Jacks

Poker Face

Maverick

Card Shark

Daddy (hearts) Longlegs

Mustang Ranch

Sports Book

Decent but fairly short route that follows a crack and lieback flake, although I remember there being quite a few face holds as well. Crux is near the top where the feet get a bit tricky. The guide calls this 10b, but it seems much easier, even by Jacks standards.

The Crux comes immediately on this awesome route, pulling over a black bulge with a side pull and pockets with minimal feet. If you're shorter than 5'10" this may feel on the harder side of 12d for you.Lost Wages is an awesome bolted boulder problem, after the crux you get a great rest at a horizontal crack and then crank hard through 5.11 to the top.

Fun 5.8 climbing. Start by climbing up to a ledge before getting to the 5.8 climbing.

Follow the trail down into the canyon, and you'll notice two large boulders about 30 yards to the right of the main landing area. This climb starts on the left side of the wall, on and up the arete. Great route, don't forget to use the arete

The guidebook doesn't give this a recommendation, but I thought it was fun.  Some of the rock in the chimney to the right is questionable, but the exposure and groundfall potential make for a pretty exciting sport route.  Good variety of moves, pretty sustained.  Climbs cool rock formation, but be careful getting to the bolt above it, it's a long way to the ground and the first bolt probably won't keep you from cratering.

I think this could be the best moderate on Casino cliffs and a great fun route.  The holds and movement are really fun with a great roof move added for spice.  Nothing is bad about this route unless you don't do it, have fun!

Start off with a fairly sequential (seems like everyone does it different) bouldery-style section that gets you to the roof, then pull up and get holds above, then pull like hell. Once you get established above the roof, the climbing eases.

This route can be climbed without using any of the holds on its neighbors, but the crux sequence is devious. Worth doing; it’s fun to solve the puzzle.

Another Jacks Canyon bolted crack but fun nonetheless!  Crux is probably between the first and second bolt, be a bit careful here as you might not want to fall here?  Sustained good route though with some helpful rests along the way.  Good quality route, have at it!  PS:  Guidebook says 5.10c but I think it goes closer to 10a/b IMHO, you choose?

Thin and technical, the crux is in the obvious location after clipping the second bolt.

This route is very fun once you're about to the third bolt, before that it has an insanely thin section that's pretty tough.  Guidebook (route # 25) says 5.10d, but we both thought this one is opposite of most Jack's routes, closer to 5.11a.  Once past the crux, the moves are very fluid and fun.  Good route.

Book says, "You can bet on desperate moves at the top"

Sequential moves on small pockets get you to the first ledge. Crux to a clipping hold for the second bolt. More sharp pockets and ledges to finish up.

Smooth holds through a white-ish rock face lead to big stair-like climbing up to a nice ledge to clip the anchors. This is another nice first lead route at Jacks.

Bouldery start up an obvious straight line using many positive pockets.  Not as many features as it's neighboring route but seems about the same in difficulty.

positive but thin pockets and edges off the ground, to and easier finish (with one strange mantle at a horizontal.

Start with a sequence of 4 underclings and bad feet to gain a decent rest.  Pull another thin undercling and get the left-hand sloper/pinch just over the small roof.  Deadpoint to sidepull and bump or just go straight to the horizontal - either way this feels like the crux.  Dyno (or strenuous cross) to the LEFT of the last draw.  This makes for three difficult sections in a short route for an overall good climb!  Feels a tad easier than Hold or Fold to the right at 12b

This is the last route on the right for this mini Casino Cliffs area.  A little bit taller than it's neighbors to the left, this route is on a black slabby face right of dihedral.

A really nice route with two crux moves. Begin with a dino after stick clipping the first bolt (or not, your choice). Then climb through the roof, and throw the second crux off a two finger pocket.

Crux at bottom starts with deep two finger pocket, then pulls over bulge.

I kept the 10a rating from the Jacks guidebook. The 10 move is down low at the start.  The rest of the route is much easier after the first 15 feet.

Hard start on sharp, sequential monos to much easier climbing after the 2nd bolt.

Recommended well protected sport route up the arete!  First bolt is about 15 feet up but very easy to get to.  Crux is between third and fourth bolt and features some tricky sidepulling and some delicate footwork for a move or two.  Good overall route!!

This powerful line is like most routes on this wall, a powerful bouldery start leads to a rest, then some pulls over the small roofs. 

  Start on some angled right facing sidepulls to a big move to a pocket out left.  Continue through a set of pockets into the crux.  Negotiate how to get through the bad crimps and snag a nice rest below the roof.  From here continue up on easier ground with one tricky move between you and the chains.

Like most routes here, the start is hard and then cruiser up to the anchors.

Just right of Sports Book.  Opening moves are tough as you use side pulls and reach high to an undercling.  The crux is likely the first few bolts but the fun doesn't end 'til you clip the anchors!

Outside and right of the grotto is a route (not the 5.6) which the first bolt has a hanger and the rest of the route is cold shuts.   

  Clip first bolt while using well chalked sloping and not-so-positive left hand hold.  Look for key pocket below & above 2nd bolt.  Moving past the second bolt is the crux and the route eases once past it.

The crux of this route just like Circus Circus next to it is the layback awkward start.  Once you bust onto the face, the holds are huge and the route is very enjoyable till the anchors.

Nice warmup or first lead.  Unlike Circus Circus down the wall to the left, this is an actual 5.6 that beginning leaders will be comfortable on.  Trickier start to easy big ledges above.

Starting on dark slick rock use crimpy holds as you reach right to a well chalked flake.  The crack behind the flake gets slightly larger and more positive with every inch.  Footwork is key.   

  Route eases considerably after the second clip.

Decent route but fairly stout (thin) for a 5.8 like the guidebook suggests.  The route is very short so I would only recommend if already in the area working some of the 5.10 routes on the same wall.

Rated as a 5.6, but I don't think a 5.6 leader would be happy on the crux lower portion.  The area around the first and second bolts will be exciting if you think you're on a 5.6.  Considerably harder than Progressive Slot (5.6) down the wall.

Pumpy route with many pockets.  Try and not burn out before making the anchor.

Hard start - really makes you think!   

  For those of you who want to climb at Jacks, it would be wise for you to invest in the Jacks Canyon guide that Deidre Burton put together.  You can visitjackscanyon.com to order it.  It is well worth the cost, because if you can't locate one route in an area at Jacks - then me telling you that a route is "to the left" or "to the right" of another route is not going to help you.  Deidre put out a quality guidebook, and I hope it helps you find your way in the canyon!

Bouldery start just left of large roof.  If you hit sports book you've gone too far by two routes.

High first bolt. Stick climb isn’t a bad idea if this is near your limit. Not the easiest 10a at Casino Cliffs.

Not very pleasant, hard balancey route with an obvious crux getting to the second bolt.   beta in my comment if you're looking for it.

Just right of Gamblin Fever. Scramble up to ledge to clip first bolt. Good warm-up or first lead. 

  For whatever reason MP dislikes emoticons!  The name of the route is "Daddy ♥'s Longlegs.

Short but steep route on the far left end of Casino Cliffs.  The route works you through 3 roofs before gaining the anchors.

Bolted crack to the left of the main Casino Cliffs area and around the corner from the cave area. The route is a  classic for the area and often a line.  

  Right facing dihedral - bolted crack.  Rumor has it a hold broke off around the second clip, I didn't notice any real difference in the route or the grade.   

Casino cliffs is the first major climbing area at Jacks Canyon you'll come to and is immediately across the canyon from the bottom of the access trail from the campsites.  With morning sun and afternoon shade you can always pick the right season here.  Grades of all abilities and typically great solid rock and well protected routes makes this a great area for climbers wanting variety but expect a social gathering.  Fairly well protected from the common winds as a bonus!!  Have Fun

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Casino Cliffs