Great spicy climb for the beginning leader. Huge holds with great movements

27 Years of Climbing

Crude Awakening

Frontal Lobotomy

NoBody Wins

Short By a Foot

Bottle Infrontome

Guernica

DaVinci's Left Ear

All That Glitters

No Brain, No Pain

The Last Supper

All Draws and No Brains

Clair Obscur

A Brief History of Climb

Knot Sure

Break the Scene

Fugaku

All That Quivers

Mosaic

Murano

Random Precision

Johnny B. Good

Stucco Nu

Guernica (To first anchor)

The Shocker

Zen and the Art of Masturbation

American Graffiti

Smack Dab

Gold Rush

Starry Night

Dain Bramage

Crimpy and the Brain

Banksy

Calm Like a Bomb

The King Lives On

Different Strokes

The Preacher's Daughter

Darkside of the Flume

Blank Canvas

Happy Trails

Briefer History of Climb

A bulging start mixed with a high class technical slab and gymnastic moves out a steep roof makes for one of the finer routes at the Gallery.

The route begins with an "in your face" bulging boulder problem that gains you access to the meat of the climb.

Finesse your way up the incredibly fun thin slab using body weight opposition, high steps, and keen route finding skills.

Rest below the massive roof, then monkey your way out the bulging roof, making some fun and well protected throws to massive huecos and flakes.  Finish up pockets and one last hard move to the arete out right.

Work your way up some oily (literally) low quality rock and make a surprising move onto a beautiful face.  Tip toe up through a number of thoughtful moves to the anchors. Considered stout for the grade.

A tough move off the ledge leads to good holds and much easier climbing for the rest of the route.

As the title implies, part of this route will be more difficult due to your body size. The first three quarters of the route was very tight for my tall friend and the last quarter becomes much wider and will be more difficult for shorter people. It's nice and cool inside the chimney if you are looking to escape the heat.

Climb edges and crimpers on a highly featured face to a long move and then a mantle to a ledge

Start off the ledge with big moves on good holds out the large roof with a huge dead point and finish on easy climbing up the headwall.

5.11- face and big moves on huge chickenheads lead to the first anchor. Lower from here, or drift slightly right on a cool crimp rail then power up and right to a decent edge. A couple more big moves and a spicy mantle deliver you to the topout ledge and a second anchor.

A devious line that will test your 5.10 climbing skills. Start below a ledge, left of a large hueco in the wall. Work your way up, thinking before acting to the anchors.

Boulder past one bolt, get in all the gear you can from a good stance, then boulder through a few difficult moves to a jug. From here, move carefully through the arching lie back and a red-point crux to the anchors.

Start with burly moves on good in cut crimps to a large rail then creep past the second bolt which would be best not to miss the clip on. Continue up great in cut crimps and jugs to a ledge that you clip the anchors from.

Climb to a ledge and clip a fixed chain draw at the second bolt. Sequential Moves between underclings and pockets lead to several bolts of easier slab in the middle. Then take on the last few bolts of climbing on the harder pocketed headwall.

This route starts with a hard pull over the roof to a couple bolts of easy climbing followed by a big move to terrible hold. Finish on easier moves to the top.

Scramble up to the ledge to clip the first bolt, climb over a short bulge then trend right up a ramp to a run-out third bolt. Fire through sequential crimping and lock offs then enjoy a variety of climbing to the top with another sneaky crux move or two mixed in and a big flake from the last bolt to the chains.

Still pretty dirty, but has fun movement and would clean up well with more traffic.

Fantastic that goes from easy run-out, to crimpy, to over hanging plates.

Starts with the same moves as Preacher's Daughter, but has it's own first bolt. Traverses left on easy ramp for 4 bolts, at which point the real climbing starts.

Right as the approach trail meets the wall, hobble over some boulders to get to the start. Be careful not to peel, hitting the boulders is possible.

Right of Starry Night is this similar, but harder climb. Climb out the juggy roof similar to Starry Night, but you'll have to work a little harder through the bouldery finish to get to the chains. Be aware of loose rock as with all new routes.

Hard to miss flaring offwidth. Start in the mud below Happy Trails and climb the broken face to the first ledge (10 ft.) and scuttle over to the crack. Climb the crack up to a ledge 15 feet below the top of the wall. Rap from bolt anchors.

Mosaic climbs the right side of the obvious overhanging, plated wall at the gallery.  A grungy start leads to easy jugs for a few bolts and a good rest.  From here the holds get smaller and a little farther apart as you run for anchors.  Both draws above the rest are in annoying spots with the second one being quite hard to hang.  Consider yourself fortunate if the draws are in place but prepare to swear a little if they're not.

For those with some fitness this route will seem very easy, perhaps the easiest 12c in the gorge?

A beautiful slab climb, this route sneaks along thin, sequence-dependent moves between randomly distributed good edges. The arete topout leads to a triumphant finishing ledge for clipping the anchors.

5.10 dihedral climbing to a stopper crux. I could only figure it out by dynoing above the fixed stopper. Definitely a rare type of climbing! Extremely fun and worth hauling the rack out for.

Start with a boulder problem to HUGE plates. Pull over an interesting flake feature to cool door  knob like holds.

Just right of American Graffiti is another great face climb for the double digit boulderers. Equipped by Troy Davison.

Not sure how this route avoided being added yet.  Route breaks down to a series of boulder problems with marginal rests scattered about.  The first crux is down low, using small incuts to traverse hard left to a jug (reachy).  Subsequent boulder problems are easier, but the ever worsening pump quickly becomes an issue.  I found the top to be a bit contrived because of the bolting; forcing you over to the right, which is easy, but seemed a bit goofy considering how obvious it is to mantel into the giant hueco/ledge off to the left.  Up to you how to do it I suppose.  Classic nonetheless.  More info here

redriverclimbing.com/RRCGui…

Between Zen and The Shocker lies this great face climb containing multiple cruxes and varied climbing.

Climb the middle part of the face this route shares with its neighbors. Technical and probably slightly dirty because of runoff/lack of traffic.

Begin on a slabby start below the low roof. Make a big move out of the roof to gain the face. Once established on the face get a shake and prepare for 60ft of spectacular climbing. The moves become slightly more difficult up to a crux reaching the chicken head. Figuring out how to rest on the chicken head was crucial because it's the last good rest before the chains. The climbing above the chicken head is sustained and culminates with a dynamic move at the anchors.

This is some of the steepest roof climbing you will find at the somewhat moderate grade of 12a.  Climb up thru a moderate start past the first bolt to a large ledge.  Rest and contemplate the steep roof ahead.  Climb out the roof on huge features, allowing plenty of opportunities for trickery.  Get established above the route on slightly less steep terrain, and climb thru big holds but well spaced to the anchors.

Still has a "new" feel, but should clean up nicely with more ascents.

Climb a steep featured face for several bolts, to a good rest and an interesting corner system.  Get thru the corner and climb thru traversing jugs and steep arete to the anchors.

Start to the left on dirty rock to gain the face moving out right over the roof. Continue up the less than vertical face on good edges and the occasional jug past a hard move here and there.

Shadow’s amazing crimp line. Feel free to update this description.

A fun power endurance route that gives you the hardest moves right before the obvious rest up high. Questionable rock near the start but once established up high, the movement and rock quality are great.

Climb the enjoyable face making use of side pulls and pinches the whole way up. Awesome route.

A couple of long reaches lead to varied enjoyable climbing up the face.

This route has cleaned up nicely since it was bolted in the fall of 2012 and is an excellent addition to the crag!

Climb the chimney and hand crack 100 feet right of the previous line.

Start with a tough boulder problem to a ledge, then climb an arete and small dihedral past two more tough crux sections. Excellent climbing on a really cool feature. More info here

redriverclimbing.com/RRCGui…

FOOT PAIN.  Tricky face climb with a paucity of holds. Plan your sequences carefully.

Start with the bolts on "Brief History..." to the ledge or climb the crack ramp to the right. Continue up the obvious crack/dihedral system with a tenuous stemming sequence off the ledge. Finish with pumpy jams and liebacks.

My recommendation is to climb in two short pitches, belaying from the anchor on the ledge. The crux is right off the upper deck and rope stretch would likely cause the leader to hit the ledge if they were to fall while linking.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Gallery