An interesting name for an interesting route.

Start with an intriguing 5.10ish slab move that is well protected by a bolt (this is supposed to be the crux...). After a brief crack section (stoppers useful), you reach the base of the intimidating chimney. You can skip this first part by scrambling up to the base of the chimney from the right.

The chimney is reportedly 5.8 if you are good at these types of "ooze moves". It felt hard to me. Pro is tricky but it's all there.

[Redacted]

Dismal Abysmal

Jail Bird

High On Testosterone

Blowing Bubbles

Cave route

Puckered Starfish

South Face

Shag Rug

Strip Poker

Donkey Dong

Hocus

Viscious Circles

Jail Bird Direct

Krokus

This route goes up through a big alcove into a cave and exits the cave out onto a short slabby finish before the bolted anchor. Set up is by top rope, access anchors the front (uphill) side of Indian rock.

Climb up the honeycomb on the right side of the cave (right of Donkey Dong) then past 3 bolts. The route was designed to be lead apparently. To TR you'll want to setup a TR anchor at the Hocus bolts and extend down quite a ways with some cord/webbing. Setting up on the bolts to the left runs the rope over an edge.

Basically 15 feet of relatively easy climbing (5.10ish) followed by a stout V4 (old-school graded) boulder problem. Not a great route, but could be entertaining if you are a stronger climber than I am.

Start up the left side of the arete, making cool moves with great jugs, clipping the first two bolts with ease. Then fire the wicked-hard boulder problem - a long move off of marginal feet to a terrible sloper, then crank for the good holds.

This route begins in the overhanging offwidth crack on the side of Indian Rock that faces the Globule. After the offwidth start follow a discontinuous thin crack up to a small roof leading to the final summit slab.

"Blowing Bubbles" is an interesting line that is harder than it looks but is likely easier than it's rated. A good warm-up for "Viscious Circles", which is considerably stiffer but similar in style.

Start up low angle features to the right of the bolt line, executing some committing moves to reach the first bolt. I thought this was the mental crux of the route, but it appeared that small gear would have protected this section. Climb more positive pockets to reach a distinct thin crux just past the second bolt. Find the big holds and finish off with increasingly easy (but runout, unless you bring slings for tie-offs or bigger cams) terrain to the anchors.

Climb the middle-right set of bolts on the south face. The crux is an interesting bulge move right before the second bolt. Kind of a one move wonder route, as the climbing is the easiest on the face (5.5ish) after the second bolt.

This route ascend the bolted left-middle section of the south side of Indian rock. Climbing is getting up a featured slab, a crux is located around the second bolt.

This is a good top rope route for children, as many of the holds can be complimented by "kid size" intermediate holds along the way.

Climb into the cave and then up on some edges. Brushing the moss away for good foot holds until the lip

Climb starts on a steep overhang with pretty good but spaced out holds. Crux is between the 2nd and 3rd bolt trying to get over onto the face above.

This route is often very mossy at the top but can be cleaned and climbed, probably best in the summer.

Climb the arete on the right side of the South face, working mostly around the corner in the tall narrow pocket. The climb consists of a large juggy haul up an overhung section of the rock, with a fun reachy finish at the top.

For the 12a finish, work up and well left from the fourth bolt, and it's 11c if you continue up the arete.

Be mindful that even though you've climbed the first 10 feet of the climb, there is stall groundfall (or slabfall, I guess) after the first bolt.

This climb is located directly above Krokus.

The start is from the block with Krokus' top anchors, and a belayer should probably be clipped into these anchors to avoid falling to the bottom of the south side (50+ feet) in the event that the first bolt on the route blows.

This slab climb has an interesting beginning move to get from a large flake onto a slab that has literally no holds on it. Getting from the first to the second bolt is terrifying, and run out. A fall in this area will send you tumbling over the roof, which would not be fun.

The crux seemed to be from above the first bolt to 4 feet shy of the top anchor.

If you don't trust your feet, don't do this climb!

This is the left most bolted climb on the lower face. The fourth bolt seems like it would only contribute rope drag, as the route is "done" after the second clip.

The crux is between the first and second clips, and invlves an awkward balancy move that is a dyno for short people. There are 4 huecos in and after the crux, and the friction on all of them sucks.

Instead of starting Jail Bird on the left and traversing in, start on the large jugs on the left side of the cave formation at the base. Clip the old crappy spinner, use the sloper rail, and power your way to a crimp which marks the start of the normal Jail Bird crux. Adds a grade or so, but also makes Jailbird way more fun. Easily toproped by scrambling up the left side chimney.

Located in the middle of the south side, this route is nearly always in the shade.

This interesting climb isn't too much about power, just keeping yourself balanced on a route with minimal footholds. There's a 5.11 move in the bottom near the first bolt that involves a smear move, and then sustained 5.11 lieback from the second bolt to the top, getting tougher as you move up. The crux is getting yourself to the top anchors, as the feet are non-existant in this section.

For an added burn, link this up with hocus.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Indian Rock