This is a beautiful little technical crack climb.  The crack starts as positive underclings out a roof, then turns into really flared overhanging hands after it turns the lip.  Where this crack all but disappears, reach out left to another crack and top out.  The rock on this is excellent, the movement is fun and interesting, and it is a very aesthetic line.

No Handlebars

Don't Fence Me In (aka Suzuki Roof)

Unknown 2

Little America

Turd Farmer

Turd Farmer Traverse

Unnamed Warm-ups

Unknown  2

Lost My Lighter

Skeavy Bastards

Emu Dreamer

"31. Project"

Bug Boy Bulge

Sweet Sweet Lovin'

Joy Ride

Apostrophe

Jump Start V1

Desparado

Superficial Man

"40. Project"

Unknown

Mantel/Hump, V3

Dogfight

The Calving Process

Stand start on good holds, and continue up to top out.

SDS on sharp crimps, and continue left and up to large topout hold.

Start on th good jug pretty far back under the roof. A few big moves on good holds lead to a high heel hook and a mantle up to a decent sidepull.

This is a left-leaning, hand to finger crack that's less than vertical.

This is a nice problem - it is pretty tricky, however. Start low, and make a long reach off slopers to a flake. Work up the flake, and then bust out right to finish.

Finding it: the best bet is to buy the new

Vedauwoo Bouldering

book by Davin Bagdonas.

Campjack splits up into 3 big formations. The first is the biggest (with Jet Stream on it). Then as you follow Brush Creek past this, there is a smaller second formation, and then a similar-sized third formation.

This problem is on the south side of third formation, in a group of boulders known as the Originals. It is the first problem you encounter - see the photo below to ID the problem.

On the boulder opposite of the Suzuki Roof, start low on good holds with a left heel hook on the flat ledge.

Start low on good edges on the left side of the '

Turd Farmer

' boulder.  Traverse across the face to finish on '

Turd Farmer

'.

This is a small wall with several good warm-up lines. They vary slightly in difficulty but stay around V1-V3.

Per

Melissa Brumbaugh

: this is on private land and is closed.

SDS on a jug, and make moves up to great patina hold. Continue up to a topout with slopers and left sidepull rail. I didn't see this posted or in Davin's guidebook, but I'm sure its been done before. It is a fun line with good movement and a flat landing.

This is a clean hand to fist crack in smooth, parallel, sandstone-like rock. It has nice exposure and good jams.

Start at the foot ledge that is right of the crack. Follow the small holds straight up to the obvious jug on top. The downclimb is straight back.

Sit start on low jug.  Move up and left on rail to a crimp and side pull seam. Top out and avoid the tree.

Start standing with left hand on pinch by waist and right hand on high edge. Move up to a couple of bad crimps and a horrible heel hook.

This is a line that starts low on small holds and moves up and left through even worse.

Nice problem on a nice boulder - nothing spectacular but certainly worthwhile for the grade. Great safe flat landing if something goes wrong. Start on a good edge and make a big reach up to another good edge.  Match and make another reach to the somewhat slopey finish.  Top out and walk off.

Finding it:  The best bet is to buy the new Vedauwoo Bouldering book by Davin Bagdonas.  This guy did a really nice job with this book.

At any rate, Campjack splits up into 3 big formations.  The first is the biggest (with Jet Stream on it).  Then as you follow Brush Creek past this, there is a smaller second formation, and then a similar sized third formation.

This problem is on the south side of third formation, in a group of boulders known as the Originals. It faces due south and is very obvious.  I will post photos so it is easily recognized.

Start on low good edge of boulder.  Traverse along lip, mantle at flake above lip (V0) or continue to apex of boulder (V1).

Start low on crimp and side pull. move right and out on a seam to a slopey dish, and top out.

This is on the south side of the big boulder, on the opposite side from the Mantle/Hump problem.  See that description to get oriented.  Again, this is in the Originals, about 50 feet southeast of Sweet Sweet Lovin'.The problem starts on the western edge of the small corridor that leads between two boulders.

This is sort of a wild start for the grade.  Jump up towards what looks like a rounded sloper on the left edge of the boulder.  You will be shocked to discover that you stick just fine and it is in fact very positive.  Get your feet up and hand traverse right until you reach the flat partof the boulder.Mantle up and walk off.

This thing only goes a little ways up the boulder - this boulder is about 25 feet tall and you won't be going all the way up via this route.

Start on two crimps at the bottom and  big moves out a steep roof.

This is a short power problem. SDS with large hold, and use crescent edge to gain topout slopers.

Start standing with right hand on side pull crimp and left hand on crimp. Move up to crimps and flake.

The sit down start would be much harder and more painful.

Start sitting down, follow the crack until it ends, make a large move out right to a detached flake (say a little prayer it doesn't break).

This is a strange little problem that I really didn't like very much - until I finally did the crux move right and suddenly I thought it was great.  Solving a puzzle and all that.

See the description of Sweet Sweet Lovin' to find this boulder. From that problem, this boulder is about 50 feet southeast, also in the Originals.

The Mantle/Hump problem is on the backside of the biggest boulder.  You will see a finegrained flake that lies just under a gentle, blank overhang.  Do the weird move up the flake and get a hand up high.There is a hold up there, and you will know it when you grab it (you definitely can't see any hold from the ground).  Pull up and top out.

Extreme limits of your reach will be required.  May not be humanly possible for short folks.

This is #10 in Davin's guidebook for Vedauwoo. Start on good holds, and go up. It is a good warm-up.

This ascends the blunt arete to the left of Skeavy Bastard Boulder (warmup on backside with cracks). Some holds broke years ago at the start, so who knows how hard it is now? Reachy.

Sit down start and follow small, but positive, holds to a rounded top out.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Campjack Rocks